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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:32 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Delta wrote:
BA pistons in an E or A series motor is a big no-no, the valve reliefs cut into the pistons are in different places. Really not a good idea, unless your going to machine the pistons

its getting to be a very popular setup, since the pistons are now off the shelf, have a look at pyroay's car, he used them and im not sure if he even had the valve reliefs cut out or not, i dont rekn it did...

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:39 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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the head is a ebII... do they differ much from the ea having giant cast in swirl ridge in the combustion chamber?

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:55 pm 
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Yes, the EA head chamber is significantly larger but the volume is offset but the swirl ridge. There are two views on the worth of the swirl ridge. A valid arguement against it is that it blocks off part of the flow from the inlet valve to part of the chamber, this is bad for complete combustion. I don't believe anyone makes heads like this anymore. You want small chamber with a clear unobstructed path, (i.e no hemi or dome pistons).

The only thing I would be wary of is how flow figures would be affected.

If this is a TRUE non-street motor then you should not be using pump fuel and therefore not have compression concerns.

Honestly, what do you want to do with this motor??
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:22 pm 
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you may be able to pump 25PSI out of the turbo, through the cooler, then back up the intake pipework, but what happens when it hits your intake manifold?

Unless your using custom plenum with large T/B your 25psi of boosted air will just bottle neck at the T/B, then once it hits ports, it will bottle neck again. Everything has to be changed, not just as simple as putting a turbo on and cranking the boost up to 25psi and getting 1,00000000 HP.

Besides, Adams (cant remember last name), his white BA XR6 Turbo ran a 9.98 second pass and he was running I think around 18PSI., 25PSI is alot of boost, 17psi will get you 400rwkw if done right.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:33 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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ideally i would like to get the most power with the lowest boost.

its a mix between a street and offstreet car.
i dont want it to be just an average car.. i want some decent power out of it.

this is the reason i made this thread.. to research what is needed to be done and how to go about it.

its not going to be an everyday car and even if it did have 400rwkw its not like i would be driving on full boost everywhere i go... so no need to tell me that its too much power to control on the street.

if 17psi can get me 400 that would be great...
what sort of mods would be needed.

bert: you keep talking about the EA head... mines an ebII... so would i still have these same problems with the swirl ridge?

what would you suggest i do to clean the head up?
just a port and polish.. machine the chambers a little to drop comp.. ?
ive read with enough work to the head they can flow just as much as a dohc xr6t head

 

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94 ED GLi - RIP
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:06 pm 
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You need to use a 62-1 or a 68-1 compressor wheel. These are LOW boost wheels which peak at around 15psi and max out at ~20ish psi. The 62-1 is a 650fwhp wheel and I think the 68-1 is a 700hp wheel. Couple this to a P-trim exhaust wheel on a Ball bearing core. This is a Turbonetics Turbo. There should be a better Garrett equivilent in the GT range or something in the XTR stuff.

These wheels should spool quicker and provide more power at lower boost levels than some high boost orientated wheels. Spec'ing the turbo so you are pushing the limits of it at the higher power levels means you are more likely to go through the "peak efficiency" points making the car more streetable.

High boost is mandatory ball-bearing core, less chance of thrust failure and quicker spool.

Go with forged pistons, get your old man to machine the crowns down slightly. Clearance the chambers slightly and de-dag the edges. 3 or 5 angle the valves and seats and just clean up the short sides and gasket match the inlet ports. I recomend starting with the EF head because it has thinner valve stems and guides, and is less likely to corrosion problems.

Run this with a larger cam. To balance street and off street I would recomend 210-215@050" on the lobes with a 114LSA and install it with a vernier at a 110I/C with lots of lift. This should lope a little but still be quite driveable. IMO its better to be too little than too big on the cam, especially with a turbo.

The EA head only came on the 3.9.

I would also going at least a 40mm wg due to the fact you want a big turbo on a relatively small engine for stable boost control. You will have to play the boost signal here, probably with some combo of a gated valve with a regulator.
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:11 pm 
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Also don't be hung up too much on head flow and cams. Look at the VL motor, NA its absolutely gutless but chuck a turbo on it and it comes alive.
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:08 pm 
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thanks heaps bert. thats the kind of stuff im after.

700cc injectors too big? or will 550cc do? dont really want to be close to maxing them out.

is a 044 enough? or would a intake and external pump be needed?

fuel reg isnt needed with this kind of fuel system is it?

 

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97 EL Fairmont Ghia - New daily
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 8:32 pm 
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PhiBz wrote:
ideally i would like to get the most power with the lowest boost.

its a mix between a street and offstreet car.
i dont want it to be just an average car.. i want some decent power out of it.

this is the reason i made this thread.. to research what is needed to be done and how to go about it.

its not going to be an everyday car and even if it did have 400rwkw its not like i would be driving on full boost everywhere i go... so no need to tell me that its too much power to control on the street.

if 17psi can get me 400 that would be great...
what sort of mods would be needed.

bert: you keep talking about the EA head... mines an ebII... so would i still have these same problems with the swirl ridge?

what would you suggest i do to clean the head up?
just a port and polish.. machine the chambers a little to drop comp.. ?
ive read with enough work to the head they can flow just as much as a dohc xr6t head



if you're looking for that much power, get a set of rods and pistons from atomic. the BA assembly will fit. from memory pyroas engine had the pistons 9thou lower the deck. that will put you where you want to be compression wise.

remember that boost pressure on your gauge is in the manifold. how much of that air your cylinders will see depends on port flow. If anyone tells youthat you dont need to port the head because the engine is turbod stop talking at that point and walk away. you need as much flow on a turbod engine as you do for N/A if you are chasing big power.

the better the port flow the less boost you will have to use to get the power. That means less heat in the intake charge from the turbo meaning less heat the intercooler has to deal with.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 8:38 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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ebs_4l wrote:
Delta wrote:
BA pistons in an E or A series motor is a big no-no, the valve reliefs cut into the pistons are in different places. Really not a good idea, unless your going to machine the pistons

its getting to be a very popular setup, since the pistons are now off the shelf, have a look at pyroay's car, he used them and im not sure if he even had the valve reliefs cut out or not, i dont rekn it did...


it deffinatly had valve reliefs cut for the 2 valve head.

i've spoken about it with the man who built the engine

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:34 pm 
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Honestly - the best place for you to start would be with a XR6T engine and some sort of aftermarket ECU - It will be cheaper and support about 330 rwkw (or near that -someone will probably correct me) disable the VVT (leave it in the position which suits top end power) there you go you will have the cheapest 450hp you could get using a falcon engine.

Doing up another engine will proably cost more in terms of getting new pistons / rings / rods, machining heads porting heads buying turbo, maifold, upgrading ignition, and much more than I just mentioned.
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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out_in_front wrote:
Honestly - the best place for you to start would be with a XR6T engine and some sort of aftermarket ECU - It will be cheaper and support about 330 rwkw (or near that -someone will probably correct me) disable the VVT (leave it in the position which suits top end power) there you go you will have the cheapest 450hp you could get using a falcon engine.

Doing up another engine will proably cost more in terms of getting new pistons / rings / rods, machining heads porting heads buying turbo, maifold, upgrading ignition, and much more than I just mentioned.


be where is the fun in doing that??

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:41 am 
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exactly, i hate it when every one says "just get a xr6t motor"

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 5:06 pm 
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and if you take your time and look around you can find all the parts very cheaply.

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 5:18 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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its a project engine.. getting a xr6t engine is cheating.

plus im not paying for any labour or machining costs.. and all parts are wholesale so its not going to cost me much to do it properly

 

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94 ED GLi - RIP
92 180sx - Sold
93 EBII GLi - Now wreaking. email me at plappen@bigpond.net.au for parts
97 EL Fairmont Ghia - New daily
01 Suzuki GSX-R750 - Weekend toy

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