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NOS on the (AUTO) EF Fairmont Ghia I6 

 

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Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 1:56 pm 
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oh yeh and the guys at the tuning shop dynoed it 3 times as i had the 75 shot in. They changed it to the 35 and tuned that and im gettin hell more out of it now.

Apparently on the standard engine managment system ya can only really run about 30-50Hp gain because the knock sensors can only retard about 2-3 degrees anymore and they read it as a error code and wont retard it.

So yeah if i wanna run ALOT more (which i do) i gotta get something like that in the future. But god dam i gotta get used to this first, its unbelievable

 

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Last edited by SIM on Sun May 14, 2006 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun May 14, 2006 9:46 pm 
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On the dyno results i have gained 50 RWHP (so far) with the low shot of NOS, The way i had it set up (75 shot) i gained 34. that is prolly the reason for the low 1/4 time's..

 

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Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 1:45 am 
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thats pretty good.


the setup that i did on my mates ef gained 77rwhp, with the 110hp shot, if you calculate that roughly with 30-34% drivetrain loss, then you end up with 100-105hp gain.... i think thats is pretty damn close

 

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Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 3:02 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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was that an i6?

 

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Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 4:28 pm 
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orange peeler wrote:
SIM wrote:
yeah its pretty nasty when ya nos it hey! i love my make piss button :)

i like mine also, but a bottle warmer is a must , why has no one said anything about , rpm window switch ,low fuel pressure switch , they are a must, stuff the purge kit :roll:


This is the most important post on this subject.

An RPM Window Switch allows you to set a minimum RPM point to complete the circuit and activate the fun factor. At the pre-programmed "Close Window" RPM point, it turns the fun factor off.

A Bottle Warmer will maintain the bottle's temperature and therefore the pressure of the contents.

The Low Fuel Pressure Switch will turn the circuit off when fuel pressure drops below a predetermined point. This prevents your engine being attacked internally with an oxy torch.
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Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:50 pm 
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SIM wrote:
oh yeh and the guys at the tuning shop dynoed it 3 times as i had the 75 shot in. They changed it to the 35 and tuned that and im gettin hell more out of it now.

Apparently on the standard engine managment system ya can only really run about 30-50Hp gain because the knock sensors can only retard about 2-3 degrees anymore and they read it as a error code and wont retard it.

So yeah if i wanna run ALOT more (which i do) i gotta get something like that in the future. But god dam i gotta get used to this first, its unbelievable


Thats fantastic, sounds like a heap of fun.
I know this guy who is running NOS in his ba xr6 NA and the power gains are unbelievable. Off nos it pulls 177rwkw but when you hit it it jumps to 240 rwkw. Amazing, its what you need if some angry xr6t lines you up............on the track that is :lol:

 

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Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:48 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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SIM wrote:
was that an i6?

yea, a std xr6 with extractors, 2.5in and pod

 

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Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:47 pm 
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playswithnitro wrote:

This is the most important post on this subject.

An RPM Window Switch allows you to set a minimum RPM point to complete the circuit and activate the fun factor. At the pre-programmed "Close Window" RPM point, it turns the fun factor off.

A Bottle Warmer will maintain the bottle's temperature and therefore the pressure of the contents.

The Low Fuel Pressure Switch will turn the circuit off when fuel pressure drops below a predetermined point. This prevents your engine being attacked internally with an oxy torch.



Do ya really need a RPM Window Switch lyk whats gonna happen if ya nos it b4 3000rpm?

I as of today work at an engine management place :D

 

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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 9:53 am 
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G'day Sim,

If you gas it too early in the rpm range, eventually you WILL run over your own crankshaft.

Too many people rely on the full throttle switch alone as a means of activation. Step on the throttle from idle and there's a very bloody good chance that you'll be injecting nitrous from as low as 1500 rpm.

To quote from Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS), "Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500rpm under full throttle conditions."

A decent window switch is available from MSD for under $200. Set the low side at 2,500 and the high side at 5800, for example. Gas on; gas off. This is especially useful in the event of a driveline failure or a missed shift. Either event resulting in massive over-rev...
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 3:12 pm 
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playswithnitro wrote:
G'day Sim,

If you gas it too early in the rpm range, eventually you WILL run over your own crankshaft.

Too many people rely on the full throttle switch alone as a means of activation. Step on the throttle from idle and there's a very bloody good chance that you'll be injecting nitrous from as low as 1500 rpm.

To quote from Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS), "Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500rpm under full throttle conditions."

A decent window switch is available from MSD for under $200. Set the low side at 2,500 and the high side at 5800, for example. Gas on; gas off. This is especially useful in the event of a driveline failure or a missed shift. Either event resulting in massive over-rev...


Thanks for the info on that. I stall mine up at about 1300rpm or somewhere around there n wen the light goes green just dump the foot, i wait a little incase of wheel spin then i nos it.. next time i do this ill check what rpm i gas it

 

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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 3:30 pm 
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A window switch will also help with your consistency if you're bracket racing.
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 8:20 pm 
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if you go with an aftermarket ECU %90 of them have nitrous control or a spare out put that can be used for it.

something to keep in mind if you plan to go that way,
some may even be able to be setup to use a second out put/in put to act as the low fuel pessure switch aswell
no need to double up

 

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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 1:04 pm 
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yeah ill be going that way shortly :)

 

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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 6:06 pm 
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so does the engine have to be rebuilt to cope with NOS? what ECU s**t will need to be done? im getting a JMM DEV-5 kit and i want to put nos on after that. where in SA can i get it and have it fitted?

cheers

 

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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 6:21 pm 
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fit it ya self hey its not that hard.. nos systems are designed to run fine on standard motors so anything else ya got will b better

 

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