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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:56 am 
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LOL like ya math Slick, think i better put diesel in it next fill up

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:59 am 
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xfpaul wrote:
formula is the true compression ratio using 9.6 starting reference but should be mulitplyed by .8 for 80% for a true starting figure for the N/A motor

Sounds like the Effective Compression is based on the Dynamic Compression then rather than static compression.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:06 am 
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xfpaul wrote:
LOL like ya math Slick, think i better put diesel in it next fill up
LOL, Thats the hear say version for dummies and the easiest way to calculate how much boost you can run safely on a stock engine. :lol:

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:09 am 
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yes, the .8 is what allows for all the other variables valve over lap, flow rate through manfold , past valve etc , a forced induction device (didnt say which type) is suposed to get you as close to 100 % volume efect as pos but in real world not possible

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:24 am 
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if nothing else we have people thinking, 10psi on a 7.5:1 engine is nothing, 7psi on a 10:1 engine is acctually lots, what fuel will they be running , if its an alchol motor go for 30 psi , if ya want to run pump gas 98 , they better do some math

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:26 am 
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Slick wrote:
twr7cx wrote:
Pauls been very happy with his lane and the blower. I regret not copying him instead of going to CAPA.
We're going to post up a group buy notice in the near future. For 4k plus, you can't go wrong with a full kit that has everything you need. by the way, how much has the capa cost you so far to this date?


Cost me $6,000 so far. Personally I don't think that's overly expensive. I'll blow another $1,500.00 on upgrading the PD to 16psi capable, and then I'll be happy for at least a while. I want to get the 2 peice Cebco brake kit before I make her go too much faster.
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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:40 am 
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xfpaul wrote:
yes, the .8 is what allows for all the other variables valve over lap, flow rate through manfold , past valve etc , a forced induction device (didnt say which type) is suposed to get you as close to 100 % volume efect as pos but in real world not possible


Very true, it takes more then a few calculations to work out true e/compression. its more time comsuming & complicated then it seems.
to be more acurate & close to real world as possible on paper. you're need 2 to 4 pages of formula to work it out. theres to many factors to concider. as you said- combustion volume Cc's at TDC & BDC, type of cam & variation on valve overlaps- time it closes & opens, head & intake flow rates.

I wish it was simple as the formula I posted. LOL

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 1:17 pm 
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effective compression of 12.9:1 :shock: if you're running 10psi on a AU motor of 9.6:1. thats based on a theoretically speaking 80% volumetric efficency. :P
I think I'll purchase a water/methanol or water/methylated injector plus a big a*** intercooler. run only on Ultimate 98. then again, I'm pretty safe where I am, its nice an cold.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:45 pm 
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Slick wrote:
effective compression of 12.9:1 :shock: if you're running 10psi on a AU motor of 9.6:1. thats based on a theoretically speaking 80% volumetric efficency. :P

I've been told by a few workshops that the stock AU bottom end will handle that OK, provided the fuel and tune are right. Should be nice with LPG 8-)

There's a long technical explanation floating around somewhere that shows that while forced induction increases power by big increases in average combustion pressure, the increase in peak combustion pressure (which breaks things) can be quite moderate... around 20% or so.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:06 pm 
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As I recall, the normal atmospher pressure is around 14.7psi. so at 12.9:1, the psi pressure would be around around 189.6 psi at the top of the stroke. theoretically of course.
I think the major problem would be predetonation & detonation at those extreme pressure. thats when things start to break apart. higher octane, correct air fuel ratio. colder intake air charge, and the list goes on.

as for the AU bottom end, you can't beat it for a reasonable boost & $$$.

But the most reliable method is stronger componet & blueprinting the engine to run on higher boost... period!

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:48 pm 
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Hmmmm... I tested compression 6 months ago & got 220-225psi in every cylinder, against a spec of 150psi minimum.

That's on an ordinary AU 6 cyl with 310,000km on it at the time.

Then again, PV=nRT, n and R are constants and temperature increases with compression, so pressure must go up by more than the inverse of the reduction in volume.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:16 pm 
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I going by a formula but what you're referring to is pumping psi. you're granking the engine over a duration to get the max gage reading.

I could be wrong also. :lol:

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:49 pm 
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D'oh!!!!!!

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:00 pm 
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Slick wrote:
I going by a formula but what you're referring to is pumping psi. you're granking the engine over a duration to get the max gage reading.

I could be wrong also. :lol:


like you said, the gauge will just give you the highest reading, the longer its cranked the better overall highest average (some supercheap guages arent all that accurate either).

a point to make here is that the volumetric efficency at low cranking speed should be at its highest for that engine and will drop off as the rpm increases.

a better flowing intake manifold, a cam with more lift, duration and overlap, opening up the head ports, bigger valves and a free flowing exhaust will increase power by raising the volumetric efficiency but the NA engine will allways create some vacuum on the intake stroke. the best built naturally aspirated engine will never achieve 100 percent volumetric efficiency because atmospheric pressure can only do so much to overcome the restrictions and turbulence in the intake system. as rpm goes up, volumetric efficiency drops off.

the only way to overcome the limitation is to add a forced induction system to increase the volume or atmospheric pressure giving the air more "push" as it enters the cylinders so the efficiency goes up and the engine makes more power. it can then breathe at 100 percent volumetric efficiency or higher depending on how much pressure is used.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:40 pm 
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sly wrote:
EL XR8 wrote:
So aren't these Raptor blowers, basically just another Powerdyne?
Is a Vortech a Powerdyne? No, it's a Vortech.Is a Paxton a Powerdyne? No, it's a Paxton.Is a Procharger a Powerdyne? No, it's a Procharger.Is a Raptor a Powerdyne? No, it's a Raptor.Perhaps you could try to phrase a question that more precisely outlines what you want to know?
Are they basically a waste in spending money on a headunit like that, that might get you to low boost levels, but your screwed if you ever try to get more out of it?Doesn't bother me personally, i've already got my Vortech, and can do kits for probably the same price as these raptors...
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