|
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
I'm sure you can all guess what I'm talking about but I didnt know what to call it so i couldnt do a search.
1. What is it called 2. What is required to re-locate it 3. Where do you re-locate it to? I put this in forced induction workshop because to fit a big intercooler you have to re-locate this. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
just noticed that in chefs turbo thread he hasnt bothered re-locating it however I would like to so if anyone has any ideads post them up.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EFFalcon |
|
|||
|
use EF/EL setup?
_________________ FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
EFFalcon wrote: use EF/EL setup?
Hopefully it wont come to that |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EFFalcon |
|
|||
|
arnt the lines going to the bottle fairly strong metal lines?
so you're going to have to get custom lines made up or similar.
_________________ FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
EFFalcon wrote: arnt the lines going to the bottle fairly strong metal lines?
so you're going to have to get custom lines made up or similar. Yer they are, braided lines are expensive and rubber hoses wont be suitable. I might have a go at tuning it 90* by making up a short section of new pipe. Still a way off fitting the intercooler though. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CHEF |
|
|||
|
I just " moddified " its brakets so it sat closer to the core/radiator. Easy to do.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
CHEF wrote: I just " moddified " its brakets so it sat closer to the core/radiator. Easy to do.
Having a second look today whilst the bumper was off I think I might just do that, I shouldnt go inside the hot engine bay otherwise I might make up new pipes to put it down near the carbon canister. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CHEF |
|
|||
|
Yeah, better to avoid moving it and having to make up new lines
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Venom_EL |
|
||
|
The cylinder at the front is called a Receiver-Dryer. Its main purpose is to absorb moisture from the system. If there is too much moisture in the system it will reduce a/c performance. IIRC it can only absorb a few droplets of water after that its useless.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
Venom_EL wrote: The cylinder at the front is called a Receiver-Dryer. Its main purpose is to absorb moisture from the system. If there is too much moisture in the system it will reduce a/c performance. IIRC it can only absorb a few droplets of water after that its useless.
So is there a way to purge it? also what does IIRC mean? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Venom_EL |
|
||
|
if you do relaocated it the whole the whole system has to be evacuated (sucked) of air and moisture and then recharged with gas. Its would be an easy job to do but you need the specialised equipment to do it. Also i think you have to be licenced now to work on a/c ????. IIRC= If I Recall Correctly
|
||
| Top | |
||
| ebs_4l |
|
||
|
it is purged by applying vacumm to the a/c system, this lowers the boiling point of the moisture so it boils off....
i will get some photos of what ive done to my setup
_________________ EB 4L, 8.4:1, R154, GT4202r, 4in exhaust, Greenslade Engineering exhaust manifold, plenum chamber, 90mm throttle, Garrett W2A cooler, Surecam custom, autronic SM4, Bosch 120lb, Crane HI-6, LX-92, LM-1, Turbosmart Reg, 2x bosch 044, turbosmart 48 gate. 470kw+ @ 18PSI |
||
| Top | |
||
| Blu Falc |
|
|||
|
ebs_4l wrote: it is purged by applying vacumm to the a/c system, this lowers the boiling point of the moisture so it boils off....
i will get some photos of what ive done to my setup Cheers guys and I look forwar to seeing those pics |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Bert |
|
||
|
When the system is vac-pumped it removes all the moisture out of the system. Moisture is bad because it will form as ice in the TX valve and/or the evaporator core. I don't know how you can "boil off" moisture in a sealed system.
Everytime the system is opened the reciever should be replaced and the system vac'd. The reciever is only about $40. I have to move mine because the engine oil cooler will not fit in where I want it. I am going to try and cut, bend, and braze the steel line with 15% silver solder rods. If you braze or weld you MUST purge with nitrogen while welding to stop carbon and gunk build up inside the line. This build up can destroy the compressor. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests |
