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 Post subject: Stock Timing Maps
Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 9:37 pm 
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just how aggresive would the stock timing maps be on an EF.
My cars on striaght LPG so the fueling side of a turbo setup is taken care of, but the timing cannot be alted at all.

so with the EF timing as is, how would it go with an intercooled turbo setup with maybe 8psi into it.

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 10:06 pm 
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this is off topic sorry but the pic on your post, are those wheels photoshoped on to your car, if not what are they called it looks awsome

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 10:27 pm 
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yes photoshopped... dream rims :)

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 10:46 pm 
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http://fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... c&start=40
read the third page (and a bit of the second) of the thread "gas turbo". I was asking the same question. Turns out that Rymers with his supercharger is running GRA and EF coil packs.
It's probably not as much information as you want, but it's a start, and he mi9ght be someone to talk to...
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Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 10:55 pm 
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Yeah, me and Rmyers are good friends :P
and while i know his car runs on coil packs, i also know he has water injection and a supercharger, a turbo will produce a hotter intake temp so more risk of detenation.

We help each other with our cars, should be interesting to see who's is faster;)

turbo'd 4.0 or supercharged 4.0

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:04 pm 
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EFFalcon wrote:
We help each other with our cars, should be interesting to see who's is faster;)

turbo'd 4.0 or supercharged 4.0


Keep it friendly, lads :wink:

Regarding ignition timing, if you're considering running a stock timing map then i encourage you to abandon the idea - pronto. I would suggest a rmyers do similar...

Look at the effective compression ratio (without considering altitude)

Final compression ratio = [(Boost in PSI/14.7) + 1] x stock compression ratio.

Insert rough figures... 9:1 stock ratio, 8psi boost.

FCR = [(8/14.7) + 1] x 9.0 = 13.9.

Now imagine decking your block to achieve a 14:1 compression ratio and running standard timing - you'd probably need near 120 octane... Forced induction would be a hotter charge which will increase the risk of detonation... recipe for melted pistons...

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:23 pm 
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simple answer, go and shave 10mms of the top of each piston, nice low comp :P

@ EF, If you're keeping it at 8 pound, and intercooled, I don't see why it won't work when using 98RON fuel. There's been a few guys at teh sydney Dyno's running similar setups, and getting good safe results.

But of course the problem is KEEPING it at 8psi, once you get used to it, you'll want more.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:48 pm 
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data_mine wrote:
@ EF, If you're keeping it at 8 pound, and intercooled, I don't see why it won't work when using 98RON fuel. There's been a few guys at teh sydney Dyno's running similar setups, and getting good safe results.



Precisely.. this is why you need to strip the timing out at high load points. My comment referred to running a standard ignition curve at that kind of compression....

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:10 pm 
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If it wasn't clear, they were pulling about 8pound peak boost. So only pulling about 200RWKW, out of the sixes.

And time to clean your car. Covered in mud is no good, unless you're an african elephant. :D

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:18 pm 
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4.9 EF Futura wrote:
EFFalcon wrote:
We help each other with our cars, should be interesting to see who's is faster;)

turbo'd 4.0 or supercharged 4.0


Keep it friendly, lads :wink:

Regarding ignition timing, if you're considering running a stock timing map then i encourage you to abandon the idea - pronto. I would suggest a rmyers do similar...

Look at the effective compression ratio (without considering altitude)

Final compression ratio = [(Boost in PSI/14.7) + 1] x stock compression ratio.

Insert rough figures... 9:1 stock ratio, 8psi boost.

FCR = [(8/14.7) + 1] x 9.0 = 13.9.

Now imagine decking your block to achieve a 14:1 compression ratio and running standard timing - you'd probably need near 120 octane... Forced induction would be a hotter charge which will increase the risk of detonation... recipe for melted pistons...


Meh, i've decked my head down to the valves and had no signs of detonation so far. High octane fuel (ie gas) + coooler + water injection + blower with cool charge = no worries :) Johns cam has a 110degree overlap anyway so would this help lower the compression ratio aswell??? The knock sensor will also help a bit to retard the timing aswell wouldn;t it???
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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:38 pm 
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I've tried to run boost on my EF with the standard computer. It just didnt work. I'm not to sure if Gas will be better or worse then petrol, but fueling wasn’t a problem with my setup. I found that it would run fine first thing in the morning, but as soon as the car started to warm up on came the detonation, and let me tell you it came on strong, was one of the more horrific noises I’ve heard from my car.. I was only running between 6-8 PSI, and found that I needed to retard the timing for the car to be even close to reliable (aftermarket ECU). I have heard of people making up adjustable crank angle senor brackets.. This might work, but a new ECU will be the best way to go… I found that the knock sensor couldn’t adjust the timing enough to stop detonation. The other thing you could try is to put a EL computer, loom and distributor in, that would solve your problems also..

Good luck..
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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:49 pm 
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tjb45 wrote:
The other thing you could try is to put a EL computer, loom and distributor in, that would solve your problems also..



Agreed. But really, you dont want to take too much advance from low load points as it'll be a bit of a dog to putter around. Factory-like advance down low is good as it'll drive like stock if you lay off the loud pedal...

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:53 pm 
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True, but I know a number of people with ED and EL, turbo setups running 10-12 PSI with stock engine management, and just a little amount of retarting. And their cars are only just a bit slower then mine, with aftermarket ECU, larger injectors, and $2000 wasted on tuning...

If you look at the big picture, you will always be better/safer of running an aftermaket ecu that can be tuned correctly over all the load/RPM bands.
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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:09 pm 
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I see your point. I cant help but feel... these im not up to speed on john's setup rmyers has a fantastic looking setup... looks like a lot of time, a lot of effort and a lot of money... seems wrong to stinge out on tuning.

Sorry to be crude but as my mechanic puts it: "Dont f**k around"

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:43 pm 
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tjb45 wrote:
retarting.


Where are the hookers kept under the bonnet? :?

(I know you meant to write "retarding")

 

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