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302 clevo to 351 

 

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 Post subject: 302 clevo to 351
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:15 pm 
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hi i was wondering what needs to be done to a clevo 302 to make it in to a 351 some one told me just the crank and conrods is that true and is that all tht needs to be done

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:18 pm 
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Yep stroke is the difference (in the Clevelands NOT WINDSORS: they have a different deck height). So a change of crank and rods is the way to go. The heads are different but you can put 302 heads on a 351. The difference there is the chamber shape. 351 heads are open chamber, the 302 heads have a smaller combustion chamber thus increasing compression. Toddy had 302 heads on his 351 and had problems with it pinging on gas.

Hope this all makes sense 8-)

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:22 pm 
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ok cool so thats all i have to do to convert it another question what is the easiest way to get horse power out of the 351 once converted

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:31 pm 
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Horsepower=money spent (correctly)
Start the same as any other internal combustion engine on the planet.
Exhaust
Get rid of engine fan
Air filter (K&N or similar)
Carby (600 holleys seem to work well on these)
Cam

Then you are looking at serious dollars on either porting or good heads.
The way to build a good engin IMO is to decide on the cam, set up heads to suit, then build a bottom end that will hang together under the head/cam combination. Throw suitabel carby on, freeflowing exhaust then a trans/diff that will handle the power.
Like I said the recipe for horsepower is: start with good engine, mix in some dollars and well......... :lol:

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:49 pm 
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i am making it in to a drag engine so it will have to be pretty strong bottem end because thinking of later on down the track once it is going quick say twelve or elevens to super chare it

thanks for the help

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:45 pm 
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To go drag racing and have it reliable take a lot of money. You'll need better crank & rods, pistons, heads, intake manifold, carby, ignition system, engine block, 4 bolt mains, crank girdle, oil pump, sump, extractors, cam & valve-train components, supercharger or twin turbos, etc ......lots and lots of dollars....... start at $20,000 and go from there.
How fast you wanna go depends on how much money you wanna part with.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:58 pm 
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and if you have a 20grand engine you also need the drive line to match so add 2500for a strong box and say 3000 for your diff and dont forget tailshaft then when thats done and you have heaps of power you are going to need suspension to get some traction you will deffinatlly have no change left out of 30grand and thats a starting point.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:33 pm 
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409Stroker wrote:
and if you have a 20grand engine you also need the drive line to match so add 2500for a strong box and say 3000 for your diff and dont forget tailshaft then when thats done and you have heaps of power you are going to need suspension to get some traction you will deffinatlly have no change left out of 30grand and thats a starting point.


Belive this \l/,cos all he says is true :P :P :P

vik...how fast your gunna go depends on your bank book,only!!!

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:43 pm 
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Bloody hell Vik...I said that in the first reply.... :lol:

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:58 pm 
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cjh wrote:
To go drag racing and have it reliable take a lot of money. You'll need better crank & rods, pistons, heads, intake manifold, carby, ignition system, engine block, 4 bolt mains, crank girdle, oil pump, sump, extractors, cam & valve-train components, supercharger or twin turbos, etc ......lots and lots of dollars....... start at $20,000 and go from there.
How fast you wanna go depends on how much money you wanna part with.


Stock Cleveland blocks are good enough .If I'm not mistaken there is a twin turbo BA Ute with a stock clevo block in it pumping out 2000hp.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:21 pm 
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Not trying to steal this thread but I thought it would be better to ask here rather then start another thread.

I have a running 302 clevo in a car at the moment but I also have a 2V headed 351 that I seized up. If I was to spend some money on one of these engines bored and stroked, alloy heads etc etc which one would I be better off sending to an engine builder? Wouldn't mind having one of these sometime in the future running around 450 horsepower. Are there any negatives to using the 302 or would an engine builder be able to start with a seized up (basically rooted) 351?

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 3:00 pm 
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xhute0 wrote:
Bloody hell Vik...I said that in the first reply.... :lol:


No ya didn't :shock: :shock: :shock: ...

Yep stroke is the difference (in the Clevelands NOT WINDSORS: they have a different deck height). So a change of crank and rods is the way to go. The heads are different but you can put 302 heads on a 351. The difference there is the chamber shape. 351 heads are open chamber, the 302 heads have a smaller combustion chamber thus increasing compression. Toddy had 302 heads on his 351 and had problems with it pinging on gas.

Hope this all makes sense
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vik...That was in the first post :x :x :x

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:42 am 
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A drag only engine doesn't need $20k spending on it, remembering it only runs hard for 12 seconds max for maybe 3 runs, and that's less than a month between them... A good street engine needs to be stronger in my opinion, unless you are talking full competition which i think you're not!

I'll say it again, horse power is cheap, reliability isn't!
How big is your bank account?
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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:30 am 
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Sorry Vik :oops: must've been another post or something somewhere else...

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:51 pm 
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[quote="Walker"]A drag only engine doesn't need $20k spending on it, remembering it only runs hard for 12 seconds max for maybe 3 runs, and that's less than a month between them... A good street engine needs to be stronger in my opinion, unless you are talking full competition which i think you're not!


i agree with what you are thinking but i would also have the opinion of when you are draging it you are taking it to its limit and the chance of failure of a component is highly increased spending ten grand and getting some wicked power and running the risk of blowing it up could end up costing you just as much as a good motor would of in the first place.. if you are in perth i no were you can pick up a 373 stroker clevo short motor for $3000 which has never been started and is still on an engine stand 3yrs after being built just need intake and heads im spewing i never new about it before i built my pig or i would of snaveled it up

 

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