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| PIMP_LTD |
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Hey guys.
I can't seem to find much info on this subject, so here goes, I have a 1979 P6 LTD, with the factory 351 4V clevo. I have binned the carter carb in favor of a 600 vac sec holley. I am currently doing a full resto on the car, and while the engine is out i was planning on changing the front and rear main seals, valve guide seals, and the head gaskets. While i am at it i thought about the unleaded full. So, Does anything in a 351 clevo need to be changed to safely run on unleaded? I've been told that they are built strong enough that the lack of lead doesn't hurt the valves, seats etc, but i can't confirm. Any help appreciated, Thanks Andrew
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| 66 coupe |
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you will need to put hardened inserts in the heads to relaibly run unleaded / lpg, but being a factory motor, its probably going to neeed a complete freshen up.
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| PIMP_LTD |
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Ok cool.
The rest of the motor is fine, compression is still very high, no smoke or oil consumption, and is still quite a tight and very healthy sounding motor. Thats why i'm only doing the seals while its out. So hardened inserts 'ey? Cool, i will fit some of these. So they valves will be sweet?
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| badcooky |
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Sodium filled stainless steel valves wouldn't hurt either.
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| BOTTLEDUP |
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Don't worry about changing the valves unless the stems are worn (if everything else is staying stock).
I'd definitely fit a set of bronze K-line inserts for the valve guides, and also some hardened exhaust seats. That on top of a cylinder head service will see the old girl motoring along for another 30 years.
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| 66 coupe |
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the only other thing i would suggest is spending the $130 odd on a new timing cover, if its 30 years old, chances are its close to dumping the water into the sump.
Valves should be ok, but replacements are cheap anyway |
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| badcooky |
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Actually i'd do the valves as the stockers will cup and recess into the seats.And if you harden the seats it will happen sooner
And run some sort of upper cylinder lube as a safety. It's going to run hotter so sort something out.
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| sooty72 |
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Or you could look at a set of alloy heads. Edelbrock do a very nice complete Performer cylinder head, approx $3000.00 a pair, bolt on. Or a set of CHI 3V's (bit expensive though). That way you get everything new, hardened seats, and a big weight saving for better performance and fuel economy.
Just a thought, as a 30 year old cleveland head will be pretty well stuffed when you get them off. Do your sums before deciding what to do. 
_________________ Yes, I own a Ute. No, I won't help you move! |
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| BOTTLEDUP |
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sooty72 wrote: Or you could look at a set of alloy heads. Edelbrock do a very nice complete Performer cylinder head, approx $3000.00 a pair, bolt on. Or a set of CHI 3V's (bit expensive though). That way you get everything new, hardened seats, and a big weight saving for better performance and fuel economy.
Just a thought, as a 30 year old cleveland head will be pretty well stuffed when you get them off. Do your sums before deciding what to do. CHI/AFD are cheaper than Edelbrocks... And perform better as well. If the budget is going to stretch to alloy heads I'd get some CHI 190cc 2Vs.
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| sooty72 |
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Don't forget we are talking Cleveland here, not windsor. $3k for a fully assembled pair of alloy heads for a clevo is pretty good. CHI's are nearly that expensive bare....
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| 66 coupe |
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Not to start another AFD / CHI fight, but heres prices on AFD heads, starting at 2500 complete.
http://www.airflowdynamics.com.au/Products/Pricing.htm |
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| XR9UTE |
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sooty72 wrote: Don't forget we are talking Cleveland here, not windsor. $3k for a fully assembled pair of alloy heads for a clevo is pretty good. CHI's are nearly that expensive bare....
CHI's are $1900 bare....nowhere near $3000! Besides Edelbrocks are s**t compared to either of the Aussie heads. |
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| PIMP_LTD |
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66 coupe wrote: the only other thing i would suggest is spending the $130 odd on a new timing cover, if its 30 years old, chances are its close to dumping the water into the sump.
Valves should be ok, but replacements are cheap anyway Thats a great idea, i will inspect this and most likely replace it, as i have heard of this before. As for replacement heads, i'm not at all looking for any more power, only keeping it fresh and reliable on unleaded, as the car is just a weekend cruiser. Never sees above 3000rpm or 100k's. 
Spoke to the guy who built a couple of race engines a while back, he said he can supply me a VRS kit, and rebuild my heads for me, converting them the unleaded/gas setup for approx $900, so i think i'll go with that. I don't want it apart again. Thanks guys Andrew.
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