All you guys running 3.9:1 diff gears with a 3000rpm stall converter. What revs does your car sit at whilst cruizing at 100kmh (IMO anything over 2700rpm on the freeway is a bit much). Bear in mind Mac Winter 76XB351GS wan'ts a good street combo with a bit of a lumpy idle. On a street car anywhere between 3.23 and 3.73 is a good ratio. Anything more with an auto box is overkill.

And the 3V EM185 are the bomb for a street engine. Best value for money you can get. If you want to go any more serious then the 218's are called for but on a street car the 185's will more than do the job. There are a few clevo's in the US that have made over 500hp with some mild 185's and some guys in the US are making 700hp with the 218's before 6500rpm.

At around 100km/h im doing around 3000rpm, 115km/h around 3200 rpm roughly. This is with 255/60/15 tyres.

If your going to do a lot of highway / freeway driving then id recommend 3.5 gears for more drivability.It all depends on the rest of the combo, and what your intentions with the car are (street or strip)

Ok, I just got a phone call from the bloke I bought the car off. He said the bloke who he sold the diff that was originally in my car to is prepared to sell it for $1200, its had a stronger axle put in but needs new seals. Its a 3.7, and its disk to disk. Is this a good deal?

Also a good mate has offered a C10 for $200, it needs a reco. Roughly how much does the average reco cost and how many hp will the C10 take? Will it bolt straight up? (C4 at the moment)

Just for reference with 4.11's you will be on 3500 rpm at 100k's

have you considered using a roller hyd cam,this will give you aprox 10-15% more power than a flat tappet cam of the same size? also the clevo takes very well to a stroker kit ,giving you more raw drivable grunt by using a happier cam as well, the heads on clevo's are some of the best flowing factory heads available ,with only slight re-working of the exhaust port bend & installing 4V exhaust valves can easily feed a 400hp 383cui engine, as for inlet manifold you cannot get any better than the Jack rousch funnelweb, and most important DO NOT USE a high volume oil pump standard is fine as long as you upgrade the pressure relief spring to around 80psi.
Do not use a compression ratio higher than 10.5:1, and dont guess the ratio, work it out propperly clevo's like lots of timing but too much comp will not allow you to get this unless using 105 octane fuel
as for 4V heads heres some 4V inlet ports, they dont liven up till 4500rpm if you have any queeries just ask, I have built a LOT of powerful clevo's and have found some big do's & don'ts with them
cheers kenny

 

 

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Im not planning on stroking it out.
So U reccomend I stay with the factory heads and get them worked?
Im after power down low, 4500 is about the max Id want to be revving.
How does a hyd cam work, is it the same as a normal cam with hyd lifters and roller rockers? Whats the price difference?
What comp will the 185cc heads give me?

the last clevo I built has 2V closed chambers ,but has been de-shrouded around both valves where it is usually the flush surface of the head, still only 2V size stainless valves and about 15hrs with the die grinder (at home) it currently runs about 340hp at the wheels with pump fuel (premium) and has a DP 780 holley, but the beauty of this engine is that it pulls away from 2300rpm through to 6000rpm,
it runs a solid cam with .600'' lift and 238deg @ .050'' duration
this engine only cost around $3000 to build all up

If your looking at under 5000 rpm, go with a set of std 2v closed chamber heads. Do not port them as you will lose low down torque. I probably wouldnt bother putting bigger valves either, unless you want to spin up to 6000+ rpm

Go with a suitable cam to suit your rev range, and rest of the driveline.
Hydraulic cams use hydraulic lifters, then you have hydraulic roller cams, which have rollers on the lifters that contact the cam (instead of flat tappet) and then you go up into the solids and solid rollers (where you need to adjust the rockers to give correct valve clearances.
For what your after, go with a hydraulic flat tappet cam and decent lifters and you should have no drama's

I totally agree, just be sure to degree the cam into the correct cam manufactors specs, as ford retarded the cam timing 4 degrees in all 351 clevo's built after 1972, this was to comply with govt pollution regulations (coincidently the same emmissions that a 308 holden motor produces!)
CROW make a wicked hydraulic phase 3 copy which would suit you're needs

I can vouch for the CHI 185's....simply brilliant heads!
Even with my less than good EFI intake(totally wrong port angle) they helped propell my 3765lb XE ute to 12.9's in full street trim. and I didn't use more than 5800rpm! Couple that to the fact I run 17" street tyres and 3.5 gears.

Cheers,
Pete.