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351 upgrade plans 

 

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 Post subject: 351 upgrade plans
Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:57 am 
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Gday

I have been asking a fair few people to give their 2c on what would be nice to do to my 351clevo.

Currently I am running a 600 Vac sec Holley, heads converted to run on gas valve seats hardened (currently on premium), 4-1 headers into a twin 2inch system. everything else is standard.

Im leaning towards a 750 vac sec holley, the ford SVO cam, getting the heads ported polished and the valves throated, and new lifters. That reccomendation came from an old bloke who used to work on clevos back in the day.

Im not too sure what size twins I should be running after this.

Also how do you tell if you have 2V or 4V heads?

Im not after a strip car, just a nice lumpy sound and a nice bit of poke to keep that Japanese technology at bay.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:07 am 
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thats a nice starting point. with that combo you'll fine keeping the 2" system you have on there, it will flow plenty.

the valve size difference between 2v's and 4v's is massive, not sure 100% but I think there is a casting mark on the corner, either a 4 or a 2.

If you have 4v's I say keep em and get it tounged, most ppl will tell you to get 302cc heads, but i spose its what ever u want it for, 4v heads have a really good top end, and 302cc will up your compression to around 10:1 and give u that low end poke.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:05 pm 
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if it were me, I wouldn't waste my time on the ford cast iron heads.

for the cost of geting them ported and preped you'll have spent enough to get some aftermarket alloy heads that out of the box will flow better then the ported ford items. plus you save alot of weight too.

after just going down the ported ford iron head path for a customers engine, I have vowed never again. he spent more mony on one head then it would have cost to get pair of alloy heads.
he could have bought the alloys and spent the saved money having them warmed over and had a better engine.


but what ever you do, have the heads done and have them put on a flow bench, use those figures to work out what cam to use and use the cam spec to work out what compression to run.

i'd go with a 650 to 700cfm carb at the most if you want a nice streeter.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:13 am 
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Aftermarket heads eh...whats quality gear? What are people running in their streeters? I have a mate that works for a certain parts company who will do whatever I want to the heads for 500 flat, but if aftermarket heads are better out of the box I'll go for them.

Id like to spend 12-1500 for the cam, lifters, heads, and whatever else I need. Iv got a few mates who have clevos and can put it all back together. Is this a reasonable price or am I dreaming?

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:28 am 
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With my clevo the best combo i had was a isky cam with 282 degrees total duration and 510 lift although other brands would be just as good. Also i had a 650dp spreadbore on it. You could feel with your foot and your back when the rear barrels opened up. If i had continued on with that clevo i would buy a performer RPM or a torker inlet manifold. My next clevo i built had a 750DP on it. What a prick of a thing it was. I thought 650 was good 750 must be better. How wrong was I. If you go for a 750 DON'T buy a DP or one of those boat carbies they are designed to sit at a constant RPM not up and down like a car.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:43 pm 
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Mac,

To give you a bit more of an idea, my combo is fairly basic, but works well.
Basically im using a std stroke 351 crank, forged pistons, biggest crane Hyd cam, roller rockers, x-cellerator manifold and 830DP.
Std untouched 2v heads except for valves, 1 7/8 4 into 1 extractors and twin 2.5 with a balance pipe.

This is good for a high 12sec pass on street tyres with a 3000 hi stall and 3.9 gears.
This equates to approx 375hp at the crank.

You can use a DP carby, you just need to know how to drive it. 4v heads on the street are not really practical unless your constantly going to pull over 4000 rpm.

If your after more hp than that, then go with a 378 or 393 stroker kit and a set of AFD ally's (my brother is taking this route, and will result on 550-600hp)
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:03 pm 
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Yeah I use a holley 770, 302cc heads with all the gear, wadecam http://users.bigpond.net.au/mikgan/cam_specs_web.jpg, single plane manifold, cummy old extractors, and only a 2" exhaust and its a nice drive with 200rwkw (well just short of it.. but not for long :P)[/url]

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:53 pm 
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Come into work monday arvo dude and we'll take a look at some alloy heads for you. I recon I'll be going down that track. It'd be the way to go.
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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:48 am 
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for a carby I would not use a holley, I would go for an Edelbrock carby, they are alot better to adjust and get better fuel economy.
reason I don't like the holleys is that all they have is an idle circuit and a flat out circuit as they were built for drag racing where you are idling or flat out.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:48 pm 
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hey im also getting a clevo built but spending a bit more on some more hp. but yer 750 on a mild motor is s**t its too big unless u got a high rise manifold and some crazy heads. id go 650 dp, x-ellerator or performer manifold, dont bother with 4v's port the 2v's, a blue race mild cam and good gear box, 3000-3500grand stall with good shift kit will help heaps and 3.9s in the diff is perfect.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:37 pm 
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hey im also getting a clevo built but spending a bit more on some more hp. but yer 750 on a mild motor is s**t its too big unless u got a high rise manifold and some crazy heads. id go 650 dp, x-ellerator or performer manifold, dont bother with 4v's port the 2v's, a blue race mild cam and good gear box, 3000-3500grand stall with good shift kit will help heaps and 3.9s in the diff is perfect.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:45 pm 
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Yeah ive been told the Holleys arent the best carbys around. I took the rockers and theres a dirty big 2 stamped in the head so I take it ive got 2v heads.

I was looking at the Pavtek 3V EM185cc small port alloy heads, are these worth the $3000 theyre asking or are there similar performing aftermarket heads for less?

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 10:47 pm 
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3v's are the BOMB!!! Ive never looked into the price cause I was always told they were pricey but you wont get a set of 2v or 4v any where near them for 3k complete.

And dont go auto unless your serious about draggin and your going to get a 2 speed glide or something nuts like that, get your self a top loader, they can take it, Ive got a top loader and 4.11 gears out the back and dreams of upping that ratio a little in the future. Its a really good combo, sure the wallet dont like me much but nothing beats this off the line, nothing!

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:26 pm 
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I was looking in the latest Just Parts and Pavtek has the 3v heads for 3000 assembled.

Is getting a custom cam from crow cams the way to go?

Im trying to buy the 9" 3.7 ratio that originally was in the car back, whats a reasonable price?

 

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76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED!

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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:38 am 
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I paid $880 (or something close to that) a few years back for a 9" with 4.11 and LSD

 

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