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351C cooling troubles 

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 12:23 pm 
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Flexi fans are evil! They have a habit of thowing blades off and piercing ur bonnet :(

Having said that, there is one on my 351C XY at the moment. Talking to a guy from a radiator shop, he recommends a 6 blade plastic fan that can be bought from supercheap. He runs them on quiet a few clients races cars and hasn't had a problem and gets good results.

My car currently has a side by side 2 core in it, instead of the under and over 3 core (previous owner was a d**k) I'm aiming to get a under and over 3 core, and fit a VN shroud and thermo to it, based on recommendation.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 1:07 pm 
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Lets go back alittle ??? This set up worked before right ? With same fan etc...Imo flex fans are about as practical as an ashtray on a motorbike!!!
Did you use the same radiator ? Did you let it dry out? If so the crud in there may have flaked off and blocked the tubes ???
A bloody good flush and radiator clean would be my first option...
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In this case I hope it's true.... Graeme...

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:22 am 
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yes i used the same radiator.
I gave it a flush this morning, new coolant, new hoses, checked thermostat again - was ok.
The car did get hot when i had it on the road (over 1 year ago).
Today it lost around a litre+ of fluid after i turned the key off, so obviously i have a serious problem.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:31 am 
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also my thermostat is either 71, 72, or 73 degrees, i cant remember.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:19 pm 
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dude get a professional flush at a rad joint flushign your rad at home will not get teh same results. also maybe a new radiator is needed.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:32 pm 
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Get it presure checked...Was it prone to this before overhaul ?Is it just getting hot or preurising and blowing coolant out? Could be anything from split bore, head gasgets not fitted corectly,cracked head, water pump not working properly??
If radiator has been left to dry out the crud inside dries out and blocks the fine tubes inside...
Fan etc shouldn't make much difference if you are crussing along at an easy 50 k or so...Is the shrouds around fan?
Double check timing at 3.000 rpm mark ballancer at 30* check how far it advances ???

 

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Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:08 pm 
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EBXR8380 wrote:
Get it presure checked...Was it prone to this before overhaul ?Is it just getting hot or preurising and blowing coolant out? Could be anything from split bore, head gasgets not fitted corectly,cracked head, water pump not working properly??
If radiator has been left to dry out the crud inside dries out and blocks the fine tubes inside...
Fan etc shouldn't make much difference if you are crussing along at an easy 50 k or so...Is the shrouds around fan?
Double check timing at 3.000 rpm mark ballancer at 30* check how far it advances ???

i'll check the advance next weekend, i probably won't have time this week.
I'm gonna get some prices on a new radiator, as i think it might be the problem, being old, probably does need a professional clean out.

When i park the car the radiator cap pressure is exceeded, therfore the fluid flows into the overflow bottle, and it loses around 2+ litres.

The 2x thermos have a sheet-alloy shroud, with 2x 12in holes cut out.
This is mounted hard on the radiator, and i think that could also be a problem.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 10:41 am 
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With your shroud as you say your radiator only has about 226 square inches of flow area. Now IIRC your radiator is probably about 18" x 30" rectangular right. This gives 540 sq Inches.

Your shroud is in effect halving your radiator surface area. That would no doubt cause overheating. I'd drop that shroud and change it so that each thermo is in a 'tunnel' that fits closely to the radiator and goes behind the fan about 1/2". The rest of the radiator is open.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 12:46 pm 
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raiki wrote:
With your shroud as you say your radiator only has about 226 square inches of flow area. Now IIRC your radiator is probably about 18" x 30" rectangular right. This gives 540 sq Inches.

Your shroud is in effect halving your radiator surface area. That would no doubt cause overheating. I'd drop that shroud and change it so that each thermo is in a 'tunnel' that fits closely to the radiator and goes behind the fan about 1/2". The rest of the radiator is open.

Not trying to put a spin on your thoughts but having the rest of the radiator open hurts cooling performance - the car companies don't shroud there fans for nothing. If your car is overheating at speed and at idle I will give you 2 possiblities - your radiator is blocked or your waterpump is not flowing enough. Was the water pump new?
Shane

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 3:09 pm 
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Shane, the key to what I was talking about is where smokin_rubber says the alloy shroud is hard up against the radiator. In factory ones the air through the radiator is 'ducted' through the thermo opening because the shroud is set back. This way the small swept area of the thermo applies vacumm to the whole radiator.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:09 pm 
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MrLandau wrote:
your radiator is blocked or your waterpump is not flowing enough. Was the water pump new?
Shane

The water pump isn't old, probably a year old? or so.
Yeah im gonna go with getting a new radiator, and probably get a pair of ef/el/au twin thermos.
I'll do the radiator first and see if it makes a difference.

raiki - that makes sense cause although the radiator has the thermos, the area that is directly covered is getting no airflow.

Thanks for all your help fellas, much apreciated, i'll let you's know how it goes within the week.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:16 pm 
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by the way is 73 degrees too early for a thermostat to be opening?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:27 pm 
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also, the timing is 6 degrees before top dead centre (recommended by the place who did my rebuild).

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:50 pm 
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smoke_rubber wrote:
also, the timing is 6 degrees before top dead centre (recommended by the place who did my rebuild).


Yep thats conservative ..But you need to know what its at in load rpm as well especially now youre having these issues...You springs in dissy relativley tight??? Like it doesn't advance too easy / quick....

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:54 pm 
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yeah i'll check higher rpm timing, but if it's not revving much, it wouldn't be much more different would it?
cause the heating is happening at low rpm's.
oh well can't hurt to check.
any recommendations of good radiator makers and/or suppliers?
thanks for every1's help

 

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