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351C cooling troubles 

 

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 Post subject: 351C cooling troubles
Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:21 pm 
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Ok. I have a worked 351 cleveland in my ute.
The problem i'm having is it is heating up (gauge goes in the red) after around 20-30 min.
I have twin thermos on it, and they don't seem powerful enough.
Does anyone know why?
would you recommend that i take the thermostat out? (don't think it's a good idea, but if it helps, i will).
Also, i have the heater disconnected.
Would youu recomend i have 2 separate hoses blocked off (one for either side) or just loop the one hose?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as it has only done 110km on a new motor, and i don't wanna ruin it.
Thanks.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:43 pm 
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What thermo's have you got on it, how old is the radiator and what does your air/fuel ratio look like?
Shane

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:13 pm 
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i forgot the brand of the fans, but im pretty sure they're not flowing as well as - au twin thermos.
radiator is a few years old, been flushed about 4 times within the year.
air/fuel, wouldn't have a clue, haven't had it on a dyno yet, too new to run it.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:19 pm 
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I had a lot of problems with thermo's on my LTD. Went to an Aussie Desert cooler 3 pass radiator. The lack of engine bay airflow is also an issue - I jack the back of my bonnet up on the Landau to let the hot air out.
Shane

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:21 pm 
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MrLandau wrote:
I had a lot of problems with thermo's on my LTD. Went to an Aussie Desert cooler 3 pass radiator. The lack of engine bay airflow is also an issue - I jack the back of my bonnet up on the Landau to let the hot air out.
Shane

yeah i was also thinking of raising the back of the bonnet.
i think some of the problem is the carby having to breathe the hot air in the engine bay (shaker to come in a few months).
Did the 3-pass radiator help?

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:50 pm 
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Yeah it did help - so did removing the transcooler from the radiator and running a B&M transcooler.
Shane

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:56 pm 
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yeah i have a dedicated auto cooler too, i dont' wanna fry the box.
hey u seem to know a fair bit about the old fords.
The water pump has a small outlet for the heater, but i have this disconnected. would it be better to block both the inlet and outlet or loop a hose around?
And would you recommend removing the thermostat?

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:04 pm 
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Leave thermo in as it keeps the whole engine at the same temp, so long as its working?? .I'd be inclined to block those heater hoses off ...It may prevent water pump efficiencey....Is there water flowing through engine on start up ?Double check timing and any inlet leaks...Hope head gasgets are fitted correctly?

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:05 pm 
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Having the hose looped will help stop some of the cavitation - having the heater box hooked up adds a lot of water storage to the system which means you have more in reserve to heat up - also means you have more to cool down.
Removing the thermostat will not cool your car down - only prolong the problem. The water doesn't get enough time to cool down through the radiator and the water keeps getting hotter. The EF-AU thermofans will fit into a 3 core XF style radiator in your car. I always run 82' thermostats - but I drill a 1/8th hole in the steel ring to stop steam buildup behind the thermostat. This stops the cooling system "puking" when you stop the car - mine did it all the time.
Shane

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:11 pm 
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EBXR8380 - i just spent $4500 on a full rebuild, so i sure hope headgaskets are the right way!!
Timing is ok, no leaks anywhere.
The top hose dosen't get hot till the thermostat opens.
Thermostat also tests ok, opens around 5mm.

Mr Landau - yeah there is a 1/4in hole in my thermostat.

The car overheats, and im driving it around under 2000rpm.
Even on the highway it runs HOT, i need to get to the bottom of this, i can't afford to stuff the motor up.

 

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NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter!

R.I.P. BF XR6 Turbo - You will not be forgotten :( 12.06@120MPH

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:18 pm 
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Easy answer - go back to the fixxed 7 blade fan and shroud untill you get some decent thermos in there.
What water pump are you running ?
Shane

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:22 pm 
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i'd have to buy a fan and shroud, the old shroud s**t itself when i broke an engine mount (before i did the rebuild) and the fan was missing a blade so i threw the sucker out.
it had one of those flex fans, i dunno how good they are.
might have to go out and invest in a cheap pair of ef/el/au thermos from the wreckers, just to experiment with.

 

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NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter!

R.I.P. BF XR6 Turbo - You will not be forgotten :( 12.06@120MPH

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:27 pm 
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There is a guy on ebay selling them all the time (aftermarket ones) for $185
Check him out

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:30 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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thanks dude i just might.
do the aftermarket ones flow as good as the genuine ones?

 

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NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter!

R.I.P. BF XR6 Turbo - You will not be forgotten :( 12.06@120MPH

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:43 pm 
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Ride: NL 347, Landau

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Couldn't really tell you - but we have fitted the aftermarket ones to customers cars with no problems.
Shane

 

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1996 NL Fairlane Ghia 347
1992 NC Fairlane Ghia 5.0
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