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alternator on the fritz 

 

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 Post subject: alternator on the fritz
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 9:56 pm 
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today for some strange reason my EF V8 wouldn't start, called NRMA and the batttery was low on charge, it's only 18mths old, he got the car started and we went down to the shop to test it, 5 minute run, on the run down the volt meter was showing about normal, the battery tested fine as well, car started no worries when I went to leave, even after only 5 min charge, there's been no signs of a failing battery/alerternator until now, when I got home I put the multimeter on and was getting 13.2v charge, I think that's about right, what would have caused the battery to chuck a wobbly like that, and also can I replace the brushes in the alternator myself or am I looking at a new/reco one.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:17 pm 
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Bring the revs up and check the charge with a voltmeter - you should be getting 14.6V
Shane

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 10:46 am 
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MrLandau wrote:
Bring the revs up and check the charge with a voltmeter - you should be getting 14.6V
Shane


at 2500rpm was only getting, 13.6v, guess that means alternator is on the way out, so question stands, are replacement brushes available and are they plug and play so I can do it, if not what the best approach, recon or new and what price and I looking at.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:14 am 
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Brushes are generally easy to replace which also means it's relatively cheap to pay someone else to do it.

As for 13.6V @ 2500rpm, that is pretty normal. You'll only get 14.4V if you battery is flat. I generally only get around 13V max driving around.

As for the mysterious flat battery, sounds to me like there was a load on the system. My daughter always turns on the little courtesy light near the top of the back doors, someone didn't play a trick on you did they ????

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:29 am 
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I had ongoing problems with my Yellowtop battery dying in my wagon over night. It would be fine all day sitting at work.. but the long sleep overnight was enough to kill the battery :) Ended up that one of the pwr window switches was 'stuck' on the up position.. drawing a constant 8A :)

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:35 am 
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My EF driver window switch did the same thing. Thank christ it didn't burn out the window motor.

 

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XB Coupe, 351C, twin system, C4 shift kitted auto, 9" LSD, Eccose Blue, very loud !!!!

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:47 pm 
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first thing I checked was the courtesy light and hte boot light, don't have elec windows so no problem there, I priced a new Alternator, $800 :shock: , saving grace is a brush kit is available for $16, just have to check if it's something I can do myself.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:48 pm 
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first thing I checked was the courtesy light and hte boot light, don't have elec windows so no problem there, I priced a new Alternator, $800 :shock: , saving grace is a brush kit is available for $16, just have to check if it's something I can do myself.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 3:30 pm 
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I'd suggest doing nothing for a few days. If you don't get a flat battery again then continue doing nothing (and thats what I do best). :lol:

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:40 pm 
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carry a spare battery and jumper leads with you, if it goes flat again, at least you can get it going.
just check the voltage at the alternator pos and negative then check battery pos and neg.
if there is a difference more than 0.5v, you might want to fit another wire same thinkness from the alternator positive to the battery positive.

 

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