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au camshaft removal 

 

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 Post subject: au camshaft removal
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:54 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Posts: 311

Joined: 3rd Jan 2006

Location: tauranga
New Zealand

hey guys has anyone removed cam by taking radiator out and sliding out the front rather than taking motor out :?: and do you have to lower sump or anything. Did a 15 sec flat 1/4 mile in the old fairmont with a few mods was quite pleased but need more power . would a unichip be best to get things runnin sweet after doin cam, not gonna go to wild lookin at comp cams xe270hr similar to crane 2031 or something like that
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Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 11:43 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 37

Posts: 661

Joined: 2nd Dec 2004

Ride: AU XR8

Location: Wollongong
NSW, Australia

I did my cam with the engine in the car. Just need to drop the radiator, and A/C condensor...

No need to drop the oil pan.
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Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:39 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Location: tauranga
New Zealand

cheers xr8ute thatl make it easy did you change valve springs if so what did you use :D
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Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:42 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 37

Posts: 661

Joined: 2nd Dec 2004

Ride: AU XR8

Location: Wollongong
NSW, Australia

Yeah, i changed the valve springs. I am using the Crane single 'conical' springs...they are bolt-on but I don't recommend them. I am not convinced they are of a decent quality.

I bought a "spark plug" threaded fitting for my air compressor (to stop the valve dropping into the cylinder), and a valve spring removal tool that is designed to work with the head still on the engine.
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:31 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Location: tauranga
New Zealand

ok might have to do more research cheers. how did you find doing the job and hasnt upset computer much what about power increase-money spent, worthwile you reckon
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Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:23 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 37

Posts: 661

Joined: 2nd Dec 2004

Ride: AU XR8

Location: Wollongong
NSW, Australia

Definitely worthwhile. Cost me under 1500 to do it myself including adjustable YT Stealth roller rockers...

Made 139rwkw before cam, and 161rwkw after cam (otherwise completely stock). At that power level I ran a 14.544 @ 95mph. The 2030 makes more power than the stock cam across the whole rev range, from idle to redline....very driveable.

Computer is still stock, idle is lumpy but not too radical (in my opinion). AFR is a pretty steady 11.5:1 at WOT at the track, so there is a far bit of power left in the tune.
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Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 12:00 am 
Parts Gopher
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Joined: 26th Apr 2005

Location: London
QLD, Australia

Agree with xr8ute - certainly no need to remove engine at all. Crane 2031 or 2030 are great choices as are the Comp Cams. Have a look at Trickflow and Iskendarian cams also. You HAVE to change your springs as stockies simply won't handle the job. I can recommend the Crow 7738 springs with internal damper and matching retainers. Not a big fan of Crane springs I'm afraid - I've seen these break in two friend's Windsors now. Isky also make 1st class springs.

What dcar do you have? 15 flat I'm guessing and AU? With exhaust, cam, r/rockers I reckon you should have a Monty be in the low 14's, just.
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 Post subject: thanks for the help guys
Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:34 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Posts: 311

Joined: 3rd Jan 2006

Location: tauranga
New Zealand

my car is au2 fairmont ghia with tickford wheels and susp, body kit roller rockers pacey tri y 3" ex CAI ,phenolic spacer,ported explorer intake basicaly run out of bits to tack on,so time to get into internals thinkin about comp cams xe270hr talked to rep and he reckons there is about 8 deg dif between advert duration and @50 thou than crane 2031 which opens valves quicker which gives more punch off the line,could be sales pitch but sounds good :D
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