Has anyone got the instructions on doing the adjustable AU 5.0 shift kit?

Have only seen the E series 6 cyl one on here, and as we know the search function is hopeless.

The AU flash tuner has capability to alter your transmission maps and line pressures. Its best to look into that. Street machine did a Test on an AU V8. I"m just wondering if there are the same functions as the 6 cylinder. Costs about half that of the BA flash tuner.

I don't want to spend that much, i just want a basic shift kit.

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have you done the process with the gear lever and ignition. My son did it and he reckons gear changes are more definate. It su[pposed to ghange the ecu gear changing points and response. here it is below. The codes that it says might not show but they didn't on my sons, he just followed the directions and reckons it's slightly different. Imagination maybe, you be the judge.

Adaptive shift modes


It has been asked many times, so here it is, the instructions for changing the AU XR auto into the different modes.

Stop the vehicle, apply Park Brake and turn Ignition Off

Apply Foot Brake and move gear selector to:

1 for Maximum Performance Mode
2 for Maximum Economy Mode
3 for Adaptive Shift Strategy

Turn the ignition On and wait for the air bag warning light to turn off

Move the selector to "R" and wait for the segment on the cluster to confirm the mode selected:

(Not sure if you will see this in XR's only for T series)

PEF - Maximum Performance Mode
ECO - Maximum Economy Mode
ADP - Adaptive Shift Strategy

Return gear selector to "P" and start the engine.

Programmed modes will remain unless the EEC is reprogrammed by the above procedure or the vehicle battery power is removed.

Default mode after battery reconnection is ADP.

(Supplied to aufalcon.com by Kooky)

Automatic modes for the TS50

2 Modes exist
ESS - Electronic Sports Shift
ADP - Adaptive Shift Strategy

Selecting ESS mode

Press mode selector switch
Vehicle must be in drive, and may be moving
instrument cluster will display ESS
Pressing either upper button causes an up-shift
Pressing either lower button causes a down-shift
The T-bar must be used to select between Park, Reverse and Neutral
To return to ADP mode(default), press the Mode switch or turn the ignition off

In ESS mode the transmission state is displayed to indicate the following conditions:
P - Park
R - Reverse
N - Neutral
1 - 1st gear selected
2 - 2nd gear selected
3 - 3rd gear selected
4 - 4th gear selected
5 - Torque converter lock-up

There's one problem, mine is a series 1 Fairlane and doesn't have adaptive shift.

I'm sure someone will come up with the instructions for the do it yourself kit.

neither did my sons have adaptive shift but he gave it a go anyway and like I said It might be his imagination but he reckons its different. Doesn't cost anything and is 10 seconds work. give it a go what have you got to lose otherwise there is a crude D.I.Y job described below but take heed of the warnings about sensible usage.

Step 1.

Locate the kick panel in the passenger�s side.



Step 2 remove kick panel exposing the computer. Make sure the keys are not on the ignition. On the left hand side of the computer strap I have an earth terminal and screw. If you have a pop rivet drills it out carefully. Gently remove the strap and lightly pull the ecu away without too much force. Check to see if there are any cable ties holding it back and cut them. Do not cut the computer wires!!!



Step 3. If you have reached this point then the computer is in your hands and about 10- 20 cms away from its original position. The loom on top should still be in the ecu. Do not force it. If you have a plastic cover on the wires gently pull it upwards to reveal the connecting harness On the AU ford the pins are numbered .In view here we are looking at a blank pin which is numbered pin 79.Next to that is pin 80 ,and one further is pin 81

Pin 81 is the s5 solenoid auto gear box pressure solenoid. This wire is a green wire as pictures on the left hand side row 3rd wire up.



Step4

This wire is the wire to cut and solder 2core wire to each end .Don�t skimp on the wire get heavy duty quality to handle the heat and current. Take note of which side of the cut is from the ecu and which side goes to the gearbox. Tape it up and reinstall the ecu.Make sure you have a self tapper on hand to screw the earth terminal back into the body of the car.



Step4.

Run the wire to your fuse box at your right knee. Preferably under the carpet across and up through the drivers kick panel avoiding areas where it can get caught. Right up to the fuse panel. In this diagram you can see my 2 red wires going into the metallic cylindrical object with 5 ohms written on it. This is a variable potentiometer and is rated at 10 watts 5 ohms. The potentiometer is my variable resistor and it can be adjusted from 0-5 ohms as desired. This makes the shifts as hard or soft as you feel.

The white rectangular object is a 18ohm 10 watt resistor which is used to trick the computer that a certain current is present and therefore allow this mod to work. One side of the resistor is wired to a switched 12 volts behind the fuse box via the ignition key and the other to the computer side of our 2 red wires. I have isolated the powered resistor with a toggle switch in my car so that essentially when it is off the shift kit does not work Also I turn the potentiometer knob to 0 ohms when not in use so that the gearbox works as normal. It is preferable to solder all wires for a better connection.





Finally.



Just a few warnings though�. if your car goes into limp home mode chances are connections are loose. The second point of advice is also to only activate the shift kit when stopped at lights...Flicking it on while driving may cause limp home mode to activate. If this occurs, removing power from the battery for about 15 minutes will see your car work normally provided you have double checked your connections are not loose.

Lastly while this setup has worked fine on my car I must stress that you use utmost care when using this kit and if you feel any hint that the auto is not going to last do not use it.

 

 

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That's exactly what i was after, thanks Paul.

One quick question. With the crude shift mod permormend. How much power can the stock box handle before it begins to s**t itself, assuming a big mumma fleet tranny cooler is fitted?

How long is a piece of string?

depends on a lot of things, Ford build slippage into their gearboxes to give longevity. If you only adjust to give positive shift changes and not to dump the mutha like a foot that slipped off the clutch then one would presume it shouldn't be too bad. But with all mods it's a calculated risk

Hmm....not exactly. Ford build slippage into the gearbox for smooth gearchanges.

That slippage actually generates heat, that with increased power and/or abuse, will break down your transmission oil and cause rapidly increased wear in your gearbox.

If you get the fully adjustable kit and keep the gearshifts firm, but not overly harsh, it should increase the life of your gearbox.

That's spot on!

I'm not doing it to have it wheel spin in second, i just want a firm shift.
My XD had a stage 2 C10 in it that would chirp into 3rd, but it had a 9 inch so strength and reliability was there.

This is an everyday family car, i don't want to go overboard, just get a firm shift and extract a bit more power from it.

When i get my funds back up I"m thinking of turboing my lane that's why I'm asking.

IM currently having a auto box rebuilt, with a massive trans cooler installed in the hope of getting some more grunt to the rear wheels, minor mods are being dont just to give it a more sprty feel, this above mod Ive found at shiftkits.com for under 150 for a full adjustable unit