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Clevo, gear drive or chain? 

 

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 Post subject: Clevo, gear drive or chain?
Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:08 pm 
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Gday,

I have a fairly large cam and springs to suit. I was thinking of going with an edelbrock set of timing gears.

Iv heard that the JP ones arent all that good and Im not too sure what the ebay 'procomp' ones are like.

Just wondering if anyone has used the Edelbrock gears and if they are worth the $$$. I dont care about the noise, just after the best preformance. Other than that, what are crow or rollermaster timing chains like?

Cheers,

Matt

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:27 pm 
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got a mate with an 11second 51 xe use to have timing gears till it snap't the cam he has been running double row chain ever since no probs n thats with large solid cam
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:09 pm 
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Rollmaster... No issues....

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:21 pm 
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Ever known a bloke to stay with a whining wife???

Never known a bloke to stay with whining timing gears!

Have heard of clevos snapping the snout off the crank with PJ gears.

Rollmaster only is my call.
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Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 12:27 am 
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Rollermaster it is, time to fire up the ebay.

Cheers!

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:40 pm 
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i had gears in my 302 windsor, was good at first but got over the noise real quick, so changed bak to chain
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Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 9:31 pm 
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Me 3 for Rollmaster.
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Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 9:35 pm 
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Had JP gears in my coupe and never had a prob
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Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 10:54 pm 
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Roller master me 4 ... (is there any thing else!!!)

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 2:00 am 
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Rollmaster 5

There is also the issue of known valve train harmonics using geardrives, in theory gear drives transfer more vibrations through to valve springs etc, reducing their lifespan, for most people running gear drives they aren't daily drivers so they don't run up a lot of engine hours to find out, more likely they will be pulled apart for other issues before this happens or a failure due to harmonics but not realised.

grapeaperacing wrote:
Valve-train Harmonics
The crankshaft drives the camshaft though a
chain, belt or gear(s). Any torsional vibrations at the
crank will naturally be transmitted to the cam. These
vibrations can and do cost power. If they are not
controlled, they can cause spring surge and early
valve float.
Valve spring selection is very important, but
even carefully selected springs can loose control of
the valve-train do to torsional vibrations. You can run
a flat wound damper in the springs or use various
type of springs that have variable resonate
frequencies to limit the effects of vibrations, like
barrel wound springs. There are many ways to
dampen valve-train harmonics at the spring, and
most do a good job, but limiting them at the crank is
much better.
Gear drives are by far the worse as far as
transferring vibrations. I should actually say that
they are the best, since just about every bit of
vibration is transferred through them and some
cheap (or just poorly designed) ones can even
create more vibrations. When using gear drives the
importance of a good torsional damper is even
greater. A stock timing chain or aftermarket roller
chain is a better choice in most cases than a gear
drive.

A belt drive does a pretty good job of limiting
the vibration that is transferred to the cam at higher
rpm, but offers little advantage in the lower rpm
range.


WOW I was looking for a technical article on valve hamonics and found this old thread in Google :lol:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 8:09 am 
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i have rollmaster also we should start a rollmaster club

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:09 am 
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Warlock wrote:
i have rollmaster also we should start a rollmaster club


:lol: Maybe, everyone is probably using them due to quality and not overpriced, then again I haven't bought a Rollmaster set in a long time for anything, but I know they weren't that much higher price than a crap quality chains, a lot of places wouldn't sell you anything else.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:34 pm 
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i rang around b4 i bought mine and they were all priced between 200-500 for a twin row chain i paid about 100 for the roll master all though the price varied for the roll master for the 100 - 250 too lol

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:43 am 
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200 to 500? Were they for f**k real?

My only b**ch about Rollmaster is they are machined so perfect that they are very tight on the crank, bit of a b**ch when you're trying to dial in and need to slip it off and on to change timing.... The cheapies slip on and off without too much effort.

But after pulling my Clevo down the first time with about 40 thousand hard k's, the timing chain was still tight, no slack what so ever... The cheapies slacken after only a few thousand.
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Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:55 am 
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Walker wrote:
But after pulling my Clevo down the first time with about 40 thousand hard k's, the timing chain was still tight, no slack what so ever... The cheapies slacken after only a few thousand.


I have seen the same, I bought a hard driven 302W and when I pulled it down due to one of the 69s piston skirts started to come off, the Rollmaster was perfect, so good I reused it, something I would normally never do due to new chains aren't weren't that expensive back then.

Rollmasters were all around $100 mark except for dodgy priced joints back in the late ninties, it is pretty good if you can still pick them up for around the same price if you shop around.

 

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