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dismatle alternator 

 

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 Post subject: dismatle alternator
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:15 pm 
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Im trying to pull the casing off my alternator to give it a tub and paint but I cant get anything to budge. The main nut wont move to hell or high water and the screws around the side seem pretty content just to sit there and laugh at me also, so people I need tips or suggestions on this one

 

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 Post subject: Re: dismatle alternator
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:30 pm 
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MikGan wrote:
Im trying to pull the casing off my alternator to give it a tub and paint but I cant get anything to budge. The main nut wont move to hell or high water and the screws around the side seem pretty content just to sit there and laugh at me also, so people I need tips or suggestions on this one


heh, I tried to remove the pulley nut by hand, never gonna happen, go down to you local mech, get him to rattle it loose, then tapp it up and drive home, then reverse teh process to tighten, I had the vice done up as tight as I dared and smacking the spanner with a hammer as hard as I dared, all it did was spinn the pulley in the vice.

not sure about the screws, have you tried an impact driver to bump them loose

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 11:43 pm 
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as has been said, you need to use a rattle gun to get it off. you may even find a 1/2" one wont cut it.. 3/4" or 1" will definatly do it though.

after you get that off its fairly simple.
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:24 am 
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What to the internals of these things? Ive been told that once/ if I get i it open that s**t will fall out and Im probably not going to be able to put it back together, Ive read some books on it and seen some exploded diagrams and they dont seem to suggest that there is anything loose in there to fall out

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:23 am 
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Usually,you will require something like a small split pin to hold bushes back when replacing housing to commutater.Will see small pin hole where to fit split pin.Can do it without(with LOTS of care),but for the sake of just painting,why pull it down completly?

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:25 am 
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Just as a tech comment and not being a prick. Alternators don't have a commutator, they have slip rings to connect the rotating coils on the rotor to the external circuit. Slip rings are what your looking at on the rotor. Commutators are on DC generators and they are what enables a generator to output DC directly. An alternator (as the name suggests) outputs AC that is then rectified to DC, voltage reg'd and output to the charging circuit. DC gens were swapped for alternators once DC reg's were refined in the 60's because alt's are smaller, lighter and maintain output at low revs.

A bit of theory for anyone who may be interested.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:28 pm 
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I did wonder why they changed to alternators, Interesting read!

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:09 pm 
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well more conscerned really about washing and cleaning in prep for pain, whats the harm in getting some soap and water in there? just a matter of let it dry out, cause its not going back on for a month or so

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:15 pm 
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try heatin them up a little with an oxy or a little blow torch of some kind that may work, just dont melt them :D

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 1:26 pm 
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MikGan wrote:
well more conscerned really about washing and cleaning in prep for pain, whats the harm in getting some soap and water in there? just a matter of let it dry out, cause its not going back on for a month or so


Won't trouble it so long as you don't sumberge the thing in any liquids as the voltage regulator mightn't like that. All that's in the main of it are blocks of iron and a bunch of coiled wire. The only area you wouldn't want overspray is around the brushes/slip rings but they're at the rear of the unit. From memory there's no ventilation there to trouble you.

I'm sure though you'd prefer to disassemble for painting. Spraying it in one piece means you'll cover the internal windings a bit which might look a little too "backyard" for your liking. Unless you mask each vent hole but who's got the time for that sort of fiddle. Haven't pulled mine down yet so I'm not much help there. I would however deter from whacking the rotor in a vice on it's own. Maybe cutting semi-circles out of some timber and using them as soft jaws to clamp the rotor. Then swing of it with a socket and pipe extension would be the best you could do at home before you'd need a rattler.

My 2 cents anyway MikGan.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 12:34 pm 
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Thanks a bundle mate, yup thats exactly what Ive dont, made a cradle out of some gear Ive got here and swung off it, hit the spanner with a hammer lowered it to knee height and kicked the s**t out of it, not budging, think Im gonna have to find a close rattle gun........

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 10:43 pm 
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if it's off the clevo you've got, you'll have the 2 screws holding the regulator on, remove it.
then you've got either 4 posi-torx through bolts or 4 flat blade through bolts to remove. If they're tight, give them a knock with a flat punch and a hammer, then tap a screwdriver in it and they should be loose.
once the bolts are removed, make sure the stator windings come out with the rear housing.
The rotor can now be clamped in a vice with soft jaws (don't damage the rotor)
get a 15/16 socket and breaker bar onto it and it should come off, if not, you'll need a rattle gun.
It might be an idea to either replace or re-pack your bearings while it's apart, and also replace the brushes if they're low.

hope this helps.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:17 am 
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Well aftre failing at geting it apart I just took the easy option and said 'f**k it!' gave it a gentle clean and hit it with the buff, heres the results, did some other pieces at the same time:
FROM THIS

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TO THIS

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