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ED 5.0l stops about 20 secs after cold start 

 

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 Post subject: ED 5.0l stops about 20 secs after cold start
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:16 pm 
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Hi Fellas, My first post so may appear amateurish. I've been lurking for awhile now and love the site.......but now I need your help
Mates ed V8 has this cold start problem. Starts fine, idles fine for approx 20 sec then suddenly stops. I tried holding revs up to 1500 + but still dies.
No spluttering etc. The tacho suddenly drops to zero and the engine stops.
Generally it will start fine if left for about 1/2 an hour after first effort. Once running it goes well all day...the hotter it is the better it starts.
Next morning, same problem.
I've replaced the fuel filter....old one seemed totally blocked.
I been lucky enough to get one of the diagnostic readers one of you guys made...great bit of gear.
The engine-on test comes up with a 33 error (egr valve not opening). No other errors.
When I checked the egr found no vacuum to it. I pulled out the vacuum solenoid switch mounted on the drivers side inner guard and tried putting different voltages across pins 3 volts to 13.5 volts...but no opening of the switch..cannot suck or blow through it with any voltage...It appears dead but has a resistance of 44 ohms.
Car is running fine today while motor is hot and with it out..egr not working, but gonna have same prob tomorrow morning.
Any ideas fellas?
Cheers
Kenno
(sorry bout being so long winded) :oops:
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:08 am 
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It would only make it run like s**t/stall if the egr was open all the time, if it stays closed, it wont be flowing any exhaust gas, so if there is no vaccum to it, would be staying closed,

Just leave it blocked so it doesnt work at all.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:34 am 
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How many kms on the motor? Make sure the fuel rail is getting enough pressure (fuel pump). If it's dropping off then a fuel pump is only $80, especially seeing the filter was full of crud.

After that, target spark.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:53 am 
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Smartlock module nr handbrake ??
Can also be vapour lock in fuel line ??
May also be stuck ISC ...
Try cleaning it..

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:05 am 
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Have you tested the coil?

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:40 am 
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Thanks for quick replies fellas.

Isc was dirty but not stuck....have cleaned it.
Coil tested OK.
Fuel Pressure?? Tested it with tyre pressure gauge on valve at top of regulator. Max pressure 5 psi and drops to about 2.5 psi. Is that how you check the pressure?? Seems too low to be even able to run.
Anyways, new pump going in tomorrow.
Will let ya know after that.
Thanks again
Kenno
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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:07 pm 
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Back again and :? Dunno what's going on.
Checked the fuel pump by taking cover off tank. Disconnected fuel outler hose and Hooked another fuel hose on the fuel outlet of the pump and stuck other end in measuring container. Got mate to turn ignition on..not starter. Pump whirred for about 2 sec and pumped out 100ml of fuel and then shut off. Pressure was about the same as town water supply...I had no way of measuring this but had to stick finger pretty hard on hose end to stop it.
Seems to me like the pump is ok.
But why am I only getting about 5 psi from the tyre valve thingo on the front of the drivers side fuel rail.
Could it be faulty regulator or somethin????
Cheers
Kenno
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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:09 pm 
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Or fuel filter ??
Check for kinks along line..

 

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As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:24 pm 
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Hi EBXR8380,
Fuel filter is new and can't find any kinks in line.
Gotta be something else????
Cheers
Kenno
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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:02 pm 
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have you tried blocking the return line with hose clamp pliers and taking a fuel pressure reading while trying to crank it? from memory should be 300-350Kpa through the regulator and over 400Kpa with the return blocked. also check the voltage at the fuel pump. hope it helps.
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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:34 am 
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Jusr did a resistance test on the fuel pump. With digital multimeter set on 200 ohms I got a reading of 1.4.
I have a brand new spare pump for my wagon and tested it also....got reading of 2.6
Does this mean the pump is kaput?
It does appear to have good pressure

Kenno
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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:40 am 
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If its fitted with smartlock ?? Check internal light fuse or check if boot light is working.. If blown smartlock stops fuel pumps 10 seconds after start up..
If o/k ? Try hot wireing fuel pump via 20amp fuse..

 

_________________

As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:40 pm 
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Can't test a fuel pump by whacking it just in a container to see if it pumps fuel. You need to make sure it puts out the right pressure so that the injectors pulse correctly.

Put the pump from the wagon in anyway, if it's new, it will eliminate that as the problem. If it's not, leave it in there until we find out what is.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:11 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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You can check fuel flow while under pressure by removing return line at tank and measuring flow per minute..

 

_________________

As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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 Post subject: Re: ED 5.0l stops about 20 secs after cold start
Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:56 pm 
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Back again to hound you guys. Been busy with work lately so have not had a chance to do much.

Situation at the moment. Car won't start at all.
Yesterday I hard wired fuel pump ....45psi and flowing 2.5l/min. With pump hard wired tried starting....no go. Connected pump back to car circuit....no go. Checked spark ..none.
Followed factory workshop manual on diagnosing spark probs. connected pins 4 and 5 of the TFI plug with ohmmeter and got a reading of 0.9 ohms Manual says it should be between 0.4 and 0.5 ohms
Did HT test as per manual. Connected pin 5 of tfi plug to HT plug on coil. Reads 9.26 kilohms when manual says specs is 7.1 to 7.5 kilohms.
As per manual recommendations, bought new coil and fitted it. Motor fired up immediately and ran perfectly. Thought problem solved Stopped and started it about 6 times...no probs
NOPE This mornin dead as. Again no spark.
Ran through these tests again and come up with same readings as for old coil suggesting new coil is knackered also. I tend to think something else is wrong.
If I could find someone wrecking an ea - ed V8 here in Cairns I would try different ecu and bem etc but can't find anyone...not even the wreckers have one.
Any ideas anyone. I'm trying to do this with least expense as the old mate is on old age pension as is barely getting by.
Thanks in advance
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