Hey guys my misses bought an ED XR8 and i took it down the drags on wednesday... It seems a little slow for what it is.

Best i managed to get was a 14.5@95mph with a 2.2 60 foot. Working against me was s**t tyres but that doesnt explain the lower? et...

We bought the car with mods already done
-was rebuilt in 1999
-unknown cam (i think its got .497 of lift? - but seems small)
-edelbrock perofmer heads
-edelbrock performer manifold
-edelbrock 75mm throttle body and 75mm egr
-Autronic Sm2 which has been dyno tuned but i dont know what it got, but i have hte receipts for it
- 2.5inch single exhaust
-stock t5
stock diff lsd

Now with those mods i would expect a high 13.. Maybe with some better tyres and a cooler night i could of hit a 14.4/14.3...

Launch was ok just a tad over 3000rpm with a slip of the clutch and peaking 3rd gear across the traps. Although i have found some problems with the car already, first of all the pod is sitting in the engine bay sucking hot air, second, i have this whistle coming from the manifold, which only happens when im accelerating, thirdly the guy has put two davies craig fans without a shroud on the radiator and pretty sure this is the reason why the car gets hot when it is stationary and idling in the que.. Which meant by the time i did my burnout and rolled upto the line it was a tad over half on the gauge and sometimes it would cause my launch to bog down.

DO you guys have any ideas? Advice? Why is the time so slow? Do we need a bigger cam? Better exhaust? Better air intake? Would hte 'whistle'lose us that much power?

Thanks for you input

I seen you running at the 'Plex on wednesday.

A set of 3.9's would probably get you a better low 14 perhaps a high 13.

The whistling noise might be a leak? I'd get it checked.

Could've been worse, You could have run 17's like the white fairlane.

yeah its booked in at IERACE on weds to get the leak looked at.. I'd probably need a new tune with the leak gone hey? :S

easiest way to check for vacuum leaks is with some aerostart. definetly wont help the perormance out if you have a vacuum leak.

The revs just increase when aerostart gets sucked in?

i would think you should be at least half a second quicker. def. get some diff gears in there although being a manual its prolly not that critical. i have no where near that sort of work done to mine. still running stock heads and manifold but ported. cam (not sure what), microtech and mafless tune. helping me off the line is a 3.9minispool. like you i bought the car already modified from a forum member now hated by most (ebv8).

there are no drags in s.a. but my list of triumphs include my99 rex, r33skyline, vxss 6sp, vy/z sv8 6sp, old school charger etc. i in no way conone this sort of activity but anyway, most gen 3's are a mid 14 and same with rex's so it stands to reason that i would be around that mark or a touch better.

i've got about 160rwkw (graph in gallery) so i would think you should be on the happy side of that.

Yeah, that mph figure looks pretty low for that combination of parts. Something is not quite right...

I would guess its making no more than 160rwkw.

Should be a bit of a weapon once its sorted

Are you running the std maf ?
That could be holding you back if you have one of those 55mm chokers.

A vacuum noise would more noticable at part throttle settings and tend to dissapear when you have the pedal to the metal !

Car should be running alot better than that with all the gear you have. I would start by pissing off the hot air induction system by closing off the pod from the engine bay and getting a cold air intake.

Autronic SM2 computer has a MAP sensor for load...MAF not required.

Go bigger exhaust...The MAF ??? MAY still be fitted??? I have seen it done....

Get rid of the Davies Craig fans, they're rubbish. Put in a set of thermos from an EL, it will bolt right in and should fix your overheating problems.
The Autronic should be able to control the fans also.
Single 2.5 is no where near big enough, you want dual 2.5 atleast until the diff, preferable all the way.
I dont think the pod is that great of a problem, the quad head lights do allow some air to flow through, so its not just going to be sucking just hot air.
Does the Autronic do data logging? You should be able to check the intake temp if it does. Or failing that, put a temp probe near the pod and go for a drive.

Get some half decent tires under the a***, to help it get off the line.
Some lower gears in the rear end to stop it bogging off the line when you get the traction. Perhaps some 3.73 or 3.9:1 gears would help you out.
looks like its got the potential to pull a flat 14, if you slap some decent drag rubber under the a***.

What diameter in inches are the current back tires? Most people run a 26" slick, and gear the car to suit. In my case I'm running a set of 3.7's and 26" slicks, but I've since found a set of 22" slicks, which if I fit to my car, I will be able to run 3.23:1 rear end gears, and my highway cruising wont suffer as much...
So depending on what size rims are currently on the a***, fitting these 22x8x15" slicks with your 3.45:1 rear end gears, would be the equivilent of fitting 3.9-4.11:1 gears in the rear end and running existing rubber, but with traction!

Try dropping in a 71 degree thermostat also. Really helps to reduce under bonnet temps as well. And fix up that hot air induction problem!

I forgot to explain that part.. what you just said is the exact problem.. Would that cause the car to lose power??

Thanks for all the help guys been great!

Pedal to the metal I doubt it would make much of a difference.

Driving around at part throttle could cause it to run a bit lean (maybe a bit hot as a result of that), more so since you have an a/market ecu and hence no self adjustment as with the std ecu.

Best off getting that vacuum leak fixed before you go burning your valve out.