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EF 5.0 Motor wont go! Clicks, but isnt starter motor 

 

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 Post subject: EF 5.0 Motor wont go! Clicks, but isnt starter motor
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:21 pm 
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Ive just rebuilt my motor, slotted it back in, and now it wont run. It turns over fine, and ive roughly set the timing, but it sounds like the distributor is clicking somehow? Like, an n-dec, n-dec, n-dec when the key is in the on position. The thermos also seem to be cycling on and off every second. Theres a relay in front of the airbox clicking, and possibly one by the coolant tank

Where do i start!

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:29 pm 
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Ok, to further clarify, unplugging the dizzy stops the clicking in that area, so it must be something in there. The BEM (im assuming, drivers footwell, above the pedals and to the centre?) is also clicking

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:41 pm 
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Ok, its looking like a short circuit somewhere. In the on position, i have power, then it trips something and i get nothing, it resets itself and keeps going. The battery is pretty low, but ive got another battery out of our bus running it too. WHen it turns over it seems fine, plenty of power for cranking. But what could be shorting out that trips out a circuit breaker or something?

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 1:00 pm 
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Popped the cover off of the fuse block by the coolant tank to find the main fuse had popped its little clear top. So ive tried to get it out, but it wont come. So i destroyed it... Now someones probably going to tell me it was unneccessary (which i know it wasnt because i had power everywhere, but theyll probably also say i now have to replace the fuse block because that one was irreplacable...)

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:48 pm 
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Argh! Im going crazy, havent had any more time to look at it. but any ideas? Ill start by just disconnecting everything electrical ive touched until it stops, but if anyone has stumbled on it it would be great :) Dont let me down!

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:51 pm 
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Andrew J wrote:
Popped the cover off of the fuse block by the coolant tank to find the main fuse had popped its little clear top. So ive tried to get it out, but it wont come. So i destroyed it... Now someones probably going to tell me it was unneccessary (which i know it wasnt because i had power everywhere, but theyll probably also say i now have to replace the fuse block because that one was irreplacable...)
I'm assuming this is an EF V8 (whole car, not just the engine fitted to an EB or whatever).

Yeah, the MAIN doesn't pull out. Is the MAIN the only fusible link blown ??
If so, access the MAIN fusible link terminals - one side goes to the battery +ve, the other is a feed to the alternator - do a continuity check from it to the chassis - I'm guessing it will be a short. If so, pull the plug out of the back of the alternator - if there's no short, alternator has an issue, e.g. diode shorted, etc.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 2:01 am 
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Well, the main wasnt blown, it had just popped the little plastic cap off
I thought it might be blown, and snapped it trying to pull it out. Darn hey... It was still fine but i wasnt sure. Should have realised i had power everywhere.... oh well. As soon as i get time ill be disconnecting everything one thing at a time till i get it. Any other ideas? Should the dizzy be clicking like it is? Does it click as soon as the key is turned on, and stay like it, hence why im hearing a click click click everytime it recieves power?

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:12 pm 
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recharge the battery,check rotor button turns while cranking,put a timing light on a plug to check sparking or a spark plug earthed to see spark.how may ks on the starter motor?i am currently reconditioning my starters and alternaters,they still work ok,but 260k and 310k,i think new bearings and brushes,now while still working will be cheaper.i just had the first pair done,alternater--new bearings,clean slip rings and brushes,starter-new bearings,commutater skimed,brushes and soleniod replaced---$110.00.i told the guys im in no hurry and took a few weeks,now to change each car over and have a pair spare.soleniods do wear---arc burn the contacts away.also check your extension drive shaft to oil pump.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:44 pm 
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i did an engine swap once and when it wouldnt start i pushed my car into the drive way, (away from the hoist and tools) and called the NRMA to figure it out :D

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:47 pm 
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lethal EA wrote:
i did an engine swap once and when it wouldnt start i pushed my car into the drive way, (away from the hoist and tools) and called the NRMA to figure it out :D

AHAHAHAHAHA great idea! :D

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:52 pm 
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lethal EA wrote:
i did an engine swap once and when it wouldnt start i pushed my car into the drive way, (away from the hoist and tools) and called the NRMA to figure it out :D


ROFL thats what my dad did when he got lost tryna reconnect the vacuum lines in his old XF after a donk swap. Even the lube mobile bloke called 2 mates for second opinions.

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:28 pm 
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There shouldnt be anything wrong with the alternator and starter that i can see. Nothing that would have changed to short anything out. Im still hoping for a short on the oil sender or something. I might have got power to the coil straight to the oil sender or something :D Just a funny idea. Guess ill find out this weekend

 

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