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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:57 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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heres a pic of the cam that came out of my car that Pete mentioned earlier. It's an XE282HR and I was running the std steel dizzy gear and std volume oil pump.

Image

definetly worth making sure you get it right for starters guy's as a dizzy gear is a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to replace than a cam.
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 1:16 am 
Getting Side Ways
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yeh well see wot happens with the comp gear then..

shan what was the state of your dizzy gear when that cam came out? was it worn as bad as the cam?

--- edit ---

bit more research hasbrought up some interesting tidbits-

apparently these cams are cast iron(u can see the casting lines clearly in that pic ^) so apparently one would need a cast iron gear since a steel one(stock) would chew it up.

with billet steel cams(with machined non-used surfaces) would need a steel gear, obviously.

that is a bit odd, because the general consensus is that all roller cams are made from steel :S

i cant find any mention of cast-steel(possible explanation for cast lines) camshafts for these motors. eagle make a cast steel stroker crank but thats all ive found. so shan i can only assume yours and my cams are cast iron.. shan/pete did you guys run steel or iron gears on the dizzy?

sources-

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread ... butor+gear

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread ... butor+gear

+plenty of google examples of steel owning cast iron.

moral of the story-
cast iron gear it is. im guessing the stock cam is a steel item then. il have to double check that, and if so that would just confirm this rant.. but yer im going for the iron gear anyway simply because i'l never be satisfied replacing the dizzy gear every two oil changes..

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:13 am 
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Ride: 351 Vogue,XH 5.0,'17 5.0 Stang

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Jeez clampy....I already said they are austempered iron.
Anyway Comp reckon this tempering process makes them compatible with stock steel gears and bronze gears and NOT compatible with iron gears. I reckon they are full of it! Notice how they now have the plastic gear available for them? I would use one of those if I were you.
You don't have a problem with Crane roller cams because they are still made of steel. I had one in my old XR for about 5 years with no probs whatsoever.

I better take another pic of shans cam and the other two....that pic is too blurry.

Pete.
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 11:23 am 
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FFS guess ill get a ford cast iron gear, and aftermarket cast iron gear and a composite(plastic) comp gear and try them all out, checking for wear.

i hate the whole 'cant have a dizzy gear that will last' crap. i wont settle for a gear i'l have to replace before the sparkplugs/leads/anything-else-that-is-typically-a-serviced-part. and i wont settle till i find a gear that will run for a million kays mated to my comp cam.

according to some places the -8 iron comp cams are compatible with cast iron gears, except that oem and aftermarket cast irons are often different levels of hardness. ie oem ones being harder. so maybe its for the aftermarket ones only. some guy tested a cast iron and it was softer than bronze

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/ ... 076444/p/2

http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2 ... 75982.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/54419 ... -gear.html

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:57 pm 
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Yes I was told that the -8 cams were for use with an Iron gear until I talked to comp and they said no. I've also talked to a bunch of guys who used -8 cams in their clevelands and all of them chewed the cam gear after using a cast iron gear.
I think the plastic gear is going to be the best solution for you. For myself and shannon the solution will be never to use a Comp cam again!

Pete.
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 3:10 pm 
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This is an exerpt from that link you gave clampy. This is the gear I used on my cleveland.

2. Ford Motorsport Steel Gear
P/N M-12390-J (1.421" OD, 0.531" ID, for 351C) in the FRPP catalog.
From page 105 of the 2005 FRPP catalog: "Steel gears are compatible with
billet steel camshafts (hydraulic roller type)". Comp Cams also claims
the Ford gears are compatible with their -8 austempered ductile iron
hydraulic roller cam cores (Comp also uses the -8 cores for some solid
street roller cams). One tech I spoke with at Comp said the Ford hydraulic
roller cam gear was prefered over a standard cast iron gear. According to
MSD, the Ford mild steel distributor gears (as fitted to engines with factory
hydraulic roller cams) are softer than the common ductile iron gears, but
harder than bronze. MSD also claims that Chevy uses a harder cam core for
it's factory hydraulic rollers and uses cast iron gears but that its gears
don't last as long as the Ford gears. Some 5.0L Ford racers have used the
Ford gear on steel cam cores without incident. Also, Keith Craft uses
the Ford steel gear on both iron flat tappet and steel roller tappet
cam cores. He said about 4 years ago, he started having cam gear wear
problems with standard flat-tappet iron cams from both Comp Cams and Lunati.
He switched to the Ford steel gears on those camshafts and has had no more
problems. He told both Comp and Lunati about it but both companies reacted
as if he were crazy. BTW, he uses the M-12390-J p/n gear on FE engines.
Apparently FE and 351C/429/460 distributors have the same outside diameter
and MSD has an FE distributor with the proper inside diameter.
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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 7:51 pm 
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yeh il buy that composite beast.. been talkin to a shop n apparently it lasts a while..

gayness.. yeh next time ill just get a custom cam made from billet steel.

 

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Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 9:30 pm 
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other head back, lower intake back, fixed and port matched..

just waiting on-

3x gaskets, (sump, timingcover,waterpump)
roller rockers,
dizzy gear,
degree wheel

wont be doing anything to the rocker covers(*sob) but i may look at some pretty ones later on..

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:33 pm 
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heres some update pics from santa

 

 

Attachments:
File comment: afr exhaust ports
Image039.jpg
Image039.jpg [ 64.23 KiB | Viewed 36 times ]
File comment: stock exhaust ports. anyone would've thought it was a small water jacket till u spot the valve inside
Image038.jpg
Image038.jpg [ 49.83 KiB | Viewed 29 times ]
File comment: e7Te casting. eww!!
Image037.jpg
Image037.jpg [ 51.26 KiB | Viewed 32 times ]
File comment: this motor flys already so who knows what this pic would've been had the heads n cam been in already!
Image035.jpg
Image035.jpg [ 57.63 KiB | Viewed 31 times ]

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:34 pm 
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old heads are off too!

thinkin of investing in a set of these too

Image

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:55 pm 
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I have a set of those, what intake u running, as the oil fill hole wouldn't clear on the RPMII. just for info

Brett

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 8:21 pm 
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gt40 tubular upper..

so if it didnt clear wot did u do?

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 8:36 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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-clampy- wrote:
old heads are off too!

thinkin of investing in a set of these too

Image


make sure u get the truck ones, the mustang ones oil fill hits our manifold

pretty sure the code has a351 in it and then u need the pcv blank plate call these guys they knew what to do and sell the blank plate

www.racepartsaustralia.com.au
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 8:58 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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I had 2 sets, one for efi amd one for carbie, so i modded the carbie fill one and it was all good. B ut now have a leak from the carbie one. Had to machine it to take the lip off the edge so the ford steel gasket would fit, but took too much off ona few spots and now have a slight leak.
Will fix it soon with some "goop"
Brett

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 9:29 pm 
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ah k cool cool..

thanks sprint ed i'l check out the truck ones.. am downloading the new ford racing catalogue(had the 05 but must have deleted it) now..

i really do like the look of the ford racing logo and the black/machined-alloy style. plus if i spill oil its not so bad haha..

 

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