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Initial Start/ Run In Proceedure - Rebuilt Cleveland 

 

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 Post subject: Initial Start/ Run In Proceedure - Rebuilt Cleveland
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:53 pm 
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I have just completed my rebuild on my engine and I am after some suggestions and tips in regards to doing the initial run in of the engine.

Thanks in advance, John

 

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 Post subject: Run in
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:35 pm 
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Geez dude your going to get alot of mixed responses with this thread. Best thing to do is call a fue performance workshops & ask them.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:43 pm 
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yeah, im just more concerned with the initial startup, as they recon you should run the cam in at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes, then for engine run in, well every man and dog has a way to do that, so i guess ill work that out as i go.

 

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 Post subject: Yeh
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:47 pm 
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Yeh my mate run his cam in @ 2200rpm for 20mins & he also was cranking the motor with no ignition to get oil very where before he actually started it.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:57 pm 
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yeah im going to put a socket on the end of a drill and prime the engine via the oil pump through the dizzy hole to oil it all up prior to cranking it over

 

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 Post subject: Yeh
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 7:51 pm 
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Yeh you could do that abit abit of effort, just disconect the dizzy & crank it for about 5-10 seconds & ur ready to rock & roll :D

Its a similair procedure as when u install a new turbo, but u have to leave it on idel for 20mins & then u can go 4 ur life.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:30 pm 
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Your initial cam run in post is about right, it varies between different guys but that's pretty well right.

Did you prime the oil pump before fitting? As in pack it with clean grease or vaseline?

A lot will say not a good idea to wind it over before fire up, reason being it will wipe off the cam lube, and you want that there on start up.

Set your timing light up ready to go, fire the engine up and get it to idle, quickly check the timing and set it (Leave dizzy loose enough to turn by hand before you start it).
Once you do that and you have oil pressure then get on the idle screw and take her upto around 2500.
Keep your eye on the water as the thermostat opens and top her up.
When i fire engines i continuously watch the oil pressure and temp guages the whole time i'm running the cam in.

As for bedding the rings in, i like to load them up, by that i mean make it work so the cylinders are working into the bores.
One way is select top gear, from about 30 or 40 k's you floor it all the way to 100 and then back off to low speed, then floor it and back upto 100 again, do this at least 6 times.
If it's auto then disconnect the kick down to make it hold a higher gear.
It's all about making it work and push the rings into the bore.

To be honest, after doing all that i drive them normal, the whole "Keep it below 80 k's and don't go over 3000 rpm is a s**t myth.

I've always drievn them hard (Not over revved them) from the word go and never had a problem.

Every engine i done seen 5000 rpm after bedding the rings in, after that i tend to limit them to 4500 max till they hit 1000 k's, after that i give them total s**t.

Everyone has different ways of doing it, but i've built over 30 engines and never had any fail on me.
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:02 pm 
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I found this link http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm to be very informative and logical.
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:08 pm 
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Melchior3 wrote:
I found this link http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm to be very informative and logical.


I beleve the \l/...

vik...even that Walker \l/ this time :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:13 am 
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Make sure you have come Crane cam run in lube in that oil. Leave that run in oil in the engine for 500k's.

Fire it up. Follow cam manufacturers instructions on rpm for cam run in. After that load it up to seal the rings @ varying rpm. Do prob 100-200k's like that. Then go for your life. All my engine had on it before I raced it 7 days later was engine dyno time (roughly 2-3hours inc cam run in).

Run it hard or you'll glaze the bores.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:24 am 
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Like I used to say...

vik...drive it like you stole it :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:38 am 
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Melchior3 wrote:
I found this link http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm to be very informative and logical.


That's a f**k good article.
Thanks

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:45 am 
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Walker wrote:
Your initial cam run in post is about right, it varies between different guys but that's pretty well right.

Did you prime the oil pump before fitting? As in pack it with clean grease or vaseline?

A lot will say not a good idea to wind it over before fire up, reason being it will wipe off the cam lube, and you want that there on start up.

Set your timing light up ready to go, fire the engine up and get it to idle, quickly check the timing and set it (Leave dizzy loose enough to turn by hand before you start it).
Once you do that and you have oil pressure then get on the idle screw and take her upto around 2500.
Keep your eye on the water as the thermostat opens and top her up.
When i fire engines i continuously watch the oil pressure and temp guages the whole time i'm running the cam in.

As for bedding the rings in, i like to load them up, by that i mean make it work so the cylinders are working into the bores.
One way is select top gear, from about 30 or 40 k's you floor it all the way to 100 and then back off to low speed, then floor it and back upto 100 again, do this at least 6 times.
If it's auto then disconnect the kick down to make it hold a higher gear.
It's all about making it work and push the rings into the bore.

To be honest, after doing all that i drive them normal, the whole "Keep it below 80 k's and don't go over 3000 rpm is a s**t myth.

I've always drievn them hard (Not over revved them) from the word go and never had a problem.

Every engine i done seen 5000 rpm after bedding the rings in, after that i tend to limit them to 4500 max till they hit 1000 k's, after that i give them total s**t.

Everyone has different ways of doing it, but i've built over 30 engines and never had any fail on me.


thats sweet, I never knew you did that kind of stuff. Did you do it as a profession or a hobby? Its a pity nowadays how hard it is to work on new cars. Change idle speed on a BA?? hahaha.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:38 am 
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Use mineral oil for the break-in period. change the oil after the first 60 or so km's. keep using mineral until 2000 to 3000km's then switch over to synthetic.

As Walker said run it hard as soon as its warmed up using first & second gear. use the engine breaking instead as it puts alot of pressure on the rings. which is good.

I couldn't be happier with the results myself. Don't pay any attention what the dealer says about safe/slow run-in periods.









.

 

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Last edited by Slick on Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:58 am 
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Thanks very much for all the help!! I have done my initial run in and im very happy with the results!! see you all at nats!

 

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