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new coil but still weak yellow spark??? 

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:20 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hi all, thanks heaps for the replys so far :)

today i pulled the coil lead off to check spark and it seems stronger there than at the plug leads so i pulled the dizy cap off and noticed the carbon tip in the middle of the dizy (under side) is all black and burnt looking and seems like the spring is stuffed.

i had a play with the carbon tip and put dizy cap back on and now it tries to fire but still not quite, just has a bit of a cough but its a lot closer to starting than it was before.

ill order a new cap and rotor tomorow and see if that fixes it and ill let ya all know how i go. thanks heaps

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:21 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hello again

well it looks like it must be the TFI module, as its the only thing i havent replaced yet apart from the dizy itself :evil:

bit strange as my dizy cap was stuffed as well so i thaught it would be that but after having a good look today i dont think the spark is strong enough at the coil lead, its just a bit stronger than the plug leads, thanks to the stuffed cap i guess. so ill grab a new TFI module and see how that goes.

does my donk have to be at TDC to remove the dizy or can i just mark the position and remove it?
thanks.

 

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EF XR6, 5SPD, HERITAGE GREEN, AU XR6 VCT ENGINE

VL COMMODORE, 5SPD, WHITE

BA XT, AUTO, OFFSHORE BLUE

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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:11 am 
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You need to set the dizzy up at 10 degrees BTDC as the computer uses this as the reference to calculate the precise time to energise the spark output signal to the TFI module
Maladjustement of the base timing from these parameters affects the spark advance in the same manner as a conventional system

my next sugestion was the tfi, but if you have ammeter handy before you pull the dizzy out put it between terminal 5 of the TFI module connector (on harness) and pin 5 of the actual TFI - with the ignition 'on' the ammeter should read zer0, if it doesn't replace the TFI
If you have access to ohmmeter check the ignition system ground at the TFI. place between pin 6 (bottom pin) of TFI and the distributor body itself, if resistance is higher than 0.5 ohms remove the dizzy as the ignition ground is provided by the TFI modules lower mounting screw. Ensure the screw is making firm contact with the lug moulded into the mounting screw recess!!

you could find that the dizzy itself could be screwed also, this happened to my old dizzy in the ea i used to have, i replaced everything only to find out the dizzy was shagged
It's the actual hall effect sensors in the dizzy's that wear out but in todays economic times it's cheaper to replace the whole dizzy instead of rebuilding an old one

I can send you some tests if you have multimater handy to test the integrity of your whole ignition system

hope this helps

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:39 pm 
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I'd be interested in those tests mate!

Mike

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:20 pm 
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No worries Mike i'll write them all up tonight or first thing in morning and send them to you :)

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:58 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Thanks mate. I can never get mine to run 100% so any help is appreciated. Typical Windsor: it pulls pretty well with lots of torque, but always has a crappy idle when cold.

Mike

 

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Bordeaux Purple, Tickford kit, slammed, 18" BA XR8's, EL Ghia chrome, full leather, Pioneer audio, C&C, ABS, LSD, Crane cam, GT40P heads, high flow cats, Genie extractors, lots of woodgrain, chrome and interior lights!

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 Post subject: Re:
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:01 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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TickXR wrote:
No worries Mike i'll write them all up tonight or first thing in morning and send them to you :)


Bumpity! :)

 

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Bordeaux Purple, Tickford kit, slammed, 18" BA XR8's, EL Ghia chrome, full leather, Pioneer audio, C&C, ABS, LSD, Crane cam, GT40P heads, high flow cats, Genie extractors, lots of woodgrain, chrome and interior lights!

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