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NL fairlane wake up 

 

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 Post subject: NL fairlane wake up
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 10:41 pm 
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Hi guys ive been reading your forums to get some ideas of which way to go but i havnt had much luck so sorry if i sound repetative. I have an NL Fairlane which i would be happy to get into the high 14s. I would like to keep it fairley drivably (ie avoid extremly lumpy cams)I was going to start with Pacemakers,AU afm and 3.45 diff. I dont want to buy the extractors if i have to change the heads any info on which way to go would be appreciated
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Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 11:12 pm 
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there are plenty of brands of extractors you can get for your can and you DONT have to change your head for extractors
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 Post subject: Re: NL fairlane wake up
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 11:33 pm 
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Ride: 1999 XHII XR8, 2002 AU Fairmont

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nudge22 wrote:
Hi guys ive been reading your forums to get some ideas of which way to go but i havnt had much luck so sorry if i sound repetative. I have an NL Fairlane which i would be happy to get into the high 14s. I would like to keep it fairley drivably (ie avoid extremly lumpy cams)I was going to start with Pacemakers,AU afm and 3.45 diff. I dont want to buy the extractors if i have to change the heads any info on which way to go would be appreciated


A nice fairly cheap combo to get a big NL Fairlane moving would be to get it pretty much the same as an AU 200kw engine.
For starters get rid of those horrible factory exhaust manifolds for a set of pacemakers, and follow up with just a press bent 3" single exhaust with muffler and resonator if ya wanna keep it cheap. Mate got this done on his NL 5.0L for $350 which isnt bad. If ya wanna spend more go for a mandrel bent 2 1/4" twin system with decent mufflers.
Then i'd go for an Explorer inlet manifold swap (these are the manifolds off the EL series 2's and all AU 5.0's). This along with a 65mm t/b will do and will be fairly cheap (well under a grand).
Decent flowing air filter can help a little aswell, give it a decent service and check timing, clean maf, check TPS voltage etc all the usual things that wont have ya diggin in ya pocket.
A set of 3.45's would be nice, but if i was you i'd go for 3.73's, you'll definately be able to notice more of a difference than just going to the 3.45's especially with the weight of the car.
From there it all starts gettin expensive, How much you looking at spending?

 

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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 12:51 am 
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I have pretty much the same car. Extractors. Underdrive Pulleys. 1.72 Roller Rockers. 3.45 or preferably higher ratio, shift kit and as long as she is pretty well maintained. That'll be about all you'll need.

 

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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 1:33 am 
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One Drone wrote:
I have pretty much the same car. Extractors. Underdrive Pulleys. 1.72 Roller Rockers. 3.45 or preferably higher ratio, shift kit and as long as she is pretty well maintained. That'll be about all you'll need.

How well does she go with the mods Mr Drone?

Any Times for us? :)

 

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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 8:31 am 
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Money isnt really an issue i use the car daily thats the reason why i want to keep it drivable. will i get the power i need out of the standard heads? I did consider a 220kw transplant but after reading your forums i think torque is probably the answer. Maybe stroker or super charger?
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 8:42 am 
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Mr drone that was the way i was heading but i wasnt sure if that would be enough to get the big girl down the quarter in under 15s
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 11:24 am 
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Do the intake as well. Then it should be enough. Depends on how tired your engine is.

 

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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 11:54 am 
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I'd go with underdrive pulley's, headers/exhaust , and a diff ratio change, at least 3.7's, biggest challenge with a decent 1/4 mile time is getting the car moving (60ft time) diff gears will help this alot especially a big car like the fairlane.

 

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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 3:54 pm 
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Sounds good do the undersized pulley play havoc with the p/s water pump alt or a/c ? So headers, pulleys, rockers, intake, afm and 3.7s should hopefully get me into the 14s. Is anyone running 3.7s with the four speed auto how does it drive on the highway?
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 4:29 pm 
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i think there is a calc in tech docs that knows how much your car would rev at 100km
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 Post subject: hay i found it
Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 4:32 pm 
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it was on my desk top

 

 

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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 9:39 pm 
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Ride: 1999 XHII XR8, 2002 AU Fairmont

Power: 236 rwkw

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nudge22 wrote:
Sounds good do the undersized pulley play havoc with the p/s water pump alt or a/c ? So headers, pulleys, rockers, intake, afm and 3.7s should hopefully get me into the 14s. Is anyone running 3.7s with the four speed auto how does it drive on the highway?


Underdrives will effect the alternator charge, that is if you go with the 3 pulley kit (BPT Race), alternator will not charge enough at idle but once over about 1000rpm the charge comes up to where it should be at bout 13.8v. As far as the water pump goes, as long as your radiator and rest of cooling system is in pretty good condition internally you will be alright, i havent really noticed a difference in water temp with mine so far, although it hasnt been driven in about a month.
I think if your gonna do all the above mods i would be paying to get a twEECer fitted and a custom tune, especially if your increasing the size of the MAF housing and going to the explorer manifold. It will help get the most out of the mods and ensure it is running a good state of tune.
I would def go for the 3.7's mate, i was running them in my 4.0L auto XH with cam etc, and absolutely loved em. Best thing to do to an auto falcon IMO. As far as highway driving goes, obviously it will rev higher at 100k's etc but 3.7's dont feel too bad as far as comfort goes. I've been in autos with 4.11's etc and sittin at 100k's just feels like s**t, constantly waitin for the next gear.
I know you said money isnt an issue, but give us a rough idea on how much you wanna spend and that will make it much easier to work out the best combo for ya.
I'd love to see the beast into the 13's :wink: :wink:

 

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Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 10:10 pm 
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The limiting factor isnt the money but i want to keep it drivable. Obviously the more it cost the longer it will take to do. What i was after is a combo that works so im not changing things twice like extractors exhaust heads and so on. If I can get the power from bolt ons thats the way i will go if I have to stroke it then thats what i will do. Basically the car looks the part it would be nice if it was competative to.
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 11:32 pm 
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Ride: 1999 XHII XR8, 2002 AU Fairmont

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nudge22 wrote:
The limiting factor isnt the money but i want to keep it drivable. Obviously the more it cost the longer it will take to do. What i was after is a combo that works so im not changing things twice like extractors exhaust heads and so on. If I can get the power from bolt ons thats the way i will go if I have to stroke it then thats what i will do. Basically the car looks the part it would be nice if it was competative to.


In that case then i would go for something like this,

AFR 165 alloy heads - $2650
Y/T Stealth rockers 1.6 Adj - $600
Crane 2020 cam - $400
Explorer Manifold (also port match lower) - $500 + $300 for porting
65-70mm T/B - $300
Pacemaker PH4000 - $900 fitted
BPT Underdrives - $280
Rollmaster Timing chain - $130
Gaskets - $300
TwEECer + tune - $1500
All that plus labour which you'd probly be looking at bout $800-1000 i'd say, unless you can do the work yourself. The above cam is fairly mild, plenty of choice as far as cams go, you could probly even just go for the crow 220kw cam.
All the above should bring you pretty damn close to consistent low 14's with the diff gear change and even better with a decent high stall.
Or you could go for a bit more cash and just stroke it, i was going to do that but my budget couldnt stretch that far, i only had about 8500 for the engine, a decent stroker (347) with alloy heads was puttin me up to about $12500.

 

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