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pinnging v8 

 

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 Post subject: pinnging v8
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:03 pm 
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my el ghia v8 goes good at night when its cold. however when in traffic, it suckes hot air and runs crap. after getting out of the traffic and giving it a boot, at about half trottle it pings badly. how do i fix it or is this normal?
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Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:17 pm 
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well that engine i believe would be running knock sensors so shouldnt be pining unless there is some thing really wrong. are u sure it is pining. what fule have u got in it. is it stock
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Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:36 pm 
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i thought that the windsor's design gave false signals to the knock sensors making it impossible for ford to use them??????
start using 98ron & clean the fuel system.
the e7te head is a design prone to pinging. my eb used to on 90ron (even on 96ron when hot & going uphill) as do many others with the pre-au 5L. i know its a bandaid fix, but try using a 98ron fuel like vortex98 or ultimate. i've found these to be the best 2 fuels in my 5L eb, no problems when going flat stick on the track, let alone when cruising home. cleaning the fuel system is also a good idea (this also helped mine), as the 5L can start to ping even when cruising if running at all lean from partially blocked injectors/fuel filter/etc...

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:04 pm 
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As I understand "pinging" the most common cause is timing. Maybe that's all it needs?

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:16 pm 
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Clean MAF wires, set timing to 30 degrees.

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 8:38 pm 
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Yeah 99% chance it is timing or a dirty MAF sensor. Do these first and then if it still occurs then there are a few other things to try.

And as sam12h, the Windsors don't run a knock sensor because the harmonics they create cause false readings with knock sensors.
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Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:44 am 
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Also check that egr is working correctly???
Sounds like too much timing or carbon build up in heads...To add what is said above...
An interstate drive can fix this also..But you wouldn't want it pinging the whole time...
Retard spark and fit colder plugs...

 

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Last edited by EBXR8380 on Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 10:51 pm 
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also it may be your MAF, i was pinging at high revs and in hot weather, turns out maf was gone
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 10:56 am 
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I had a similar problem in an AU series one V8, turned out to be Shell Optimax - was ok on BP and Mobile both normal unleaded and premium, even tried normal unleaded shell, and all was ok. I spent ages trying to track this down. That was a few years back, I sold the wagon. I have series II AU V8, and it is ok on anything - it pinged on the dyno day on Optimax at fullthrottle

Ray

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 12:20 pm 
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Airwave wrote:
I had a similar problem in an AU series one V8, turned out to be Shell Optimax - was ok on BP and Mobile both normal unleaded and premium, even tried normal unleaded shell, and all was ok. I spent ages trying to track this down. That was a few years back, I sold the wagon. I have series II AU V8, and it is ok on anything - it pinged on the dyno day on Optimax at fullthrottle

Ray


Yeah Opticrap is not what it is cracked up to be. I have now switched too BP Ultimate in the last couple of months and I have found all my previous idling issues have gone now :D

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 12:44 pm 
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Even though you can blame it on fuel..The sprk is too far advanced..Retard it another 2* as it will kill your engine in time...Just setting spark to manu specs may not be enough.. There may need to be more safety margin on tuning...
Colder plugs can help also..

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 12:51 pm 
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Hey thats something I'd like to have explained to me - Colder / Hotter plugs. Which ones are appropriate for which type of timing / tuning?

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 1:10 pm 
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http://www.ngkspark.com.au/content.php? ... 49&hl2=l40

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 1:49 am 
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I think it would be fair to say that you can never have a plug which is too cold! Colder the better..

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 1:54 am 
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Waggin wrote:
I think it would be fair to say that you can never have a plug which is too cold! Colder the better..


No, you have to get as close as possible for the engine specs.

Taken from NGK:

"It is essential to use a spark plug that fits a specific engine and its conditions of use.

When the heat rating is too high,
The spark plug temperature remains too low, and causes deposits to build up on the firing end; the deposits offer an electrical leakage path that leaves rise to loss of sparks.

When the heat rating is too low,
The spark plug temperature rises too high and induces abnormal combustion (pre-ignition); this leads to melting of the spark plug electrodes as well as piston seizure and erosion. "
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