I'd be requesting pics of the actual EF/EL one you want to replace.

iv got one in my67 xr with a 351 had it for about 6 months and works very well doesnt get hot at all and is fairly well made

If its only to hold more coolant, maybe just go for a larger header tank.

Not sure if anyone cares, you sound like you know what you're doing far more than I - but there is no transmission oil cooling heat transfer bits on those radiators.

Like I say - you guys seem to know what you're doing, and no doubt this has been taken into consideration.

WHY AM I EVEN PUSHING THE "SUBMIT" BUTTON ON THIS?!

I got a large 3 core 40-50mm thick one from Aussie dessert cooler. It wasnt cheap but they made it for the EL and the factory fans retro fitted easily. Works a treat but having said that I find that air flow is a major issue with EL's and they tend to hold a lot of heat under the bonnet when not actually driving along. The std bonnet vents seem to be too small and a little too low on the bonnet.

careful with aluminium core radiators, the lifespan can be limited. Had mine go in the AU (01 model so it lasted 7 years) which has always had correct inhibitors, and the radiator guy said its quite common to see aluminium radiators wear out relatively quickly compared to brass core. its just not a good metal to be dealing with water. something to keep in mind.

Not an XH/EL, but in my ED on a trip up to canberra with an underperforming rad, I removed the rubber seal from the rear of the bonnet.
Helped with airflow.
You can also space the rear of the bonnet up on the hinges to increase it even more, the drift guys are pretty keen on that.

If you get a thicker core than stock, make sure you have the airflow to cool it.

Dude - I am STILL looking into this myself. I have found that the area where I'd like to chop bonnet (higher, towards windscreen) will actually have air PUSHED INTO IT at anything around 80km/h or above. This may not be such a big issue, but will have to do a decent pressure check around the front of the block and in front of extractors to see if there is still enough air pressure differential for the radiators to work.

I think it will be fine - Especially is a put the belly pan back in so that the engine bay is vented along entire width for about two foot in front of fire wall on bottom of engine bay.

When idling around town the heat should escape out holes further up the bonnet fine... Although, to increase airflow through the radiators and actually allow the waste hot air out you need basically a big slit through the bonnet about a foot to 16 inches behind the radiator --- like a late model Mitsi Evo .

Started mucking around taking pressure readings at different speeds the other weekend. My testing system needs some work, but first results seem to confirm that pressure from the windscreen does actually create enough of a "bow wave" to push air INTO the engine bay if you "vent" the engine bay within a foot of the windscreen....

Will attempt to find a slightly less error prone system for checking it and do a grid over bonnet and try all sorts of positions and the corresponding positions under the bonnet.

If anyone has done this with an EF Fairmont I6, you could save me a couple of days effort by replying here.


Cheerio.