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| nannas_ed |
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Has anybody had issues fitting pacemakers to an ef/el xr8.
My problem is on the pass side. there's one bolt that interferes with the with a pipe so much so that it must be in place before the extractor is to go anywhere near the head. secondly on two other pipes the welds interfere with the the bolt head causing it to not be flush against the manifold plate. Lastly the pipes hit the friggen k-frame. excuse my dodgy description, these photos should tell a 1000 words. Im so friggen p****d atm it ridiculous coz it looks like im gonna have to pinch 1 pipe and then grind some of the weld back so there is enough clearance for the bolt to correctly seat, then this raises the issue of possible exhaust leaks. Definatley not what i expected from a set of pacemakers.  this is the pipe that interferes with the bolt   these are the welds that interfere with the bolts   and as you can see they touch the k-frame mount. surely there should be at least 15-20mm clearance if not more im gonna try getting some smaller headed bolts and if i have to pinch that no1 pipe. *NOTE* bolts pictured were supplied with the extractors to start with what do u guys reckon cheers
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| Sturmovik |
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Just use a washer or two, cut a side off them so it sits flush and there shouldnt be a problem.
Cant really give an easy solution for help with the K-frame
_________________ 1993 ED XR6 5speed Polynesian Green. Project car. |
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| hans hartman |
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USE UNBRAKO CAP HEAD BOLTS or machine washers to stand off the welds if you use hex.nuts,then check your plugs.by the way part no. on the pacies? i fitted mine to the heads,ground some welds and hammered some pipes,before i had them ceramic coated.heads are off-porting,i used the unbreako bolts,hex.drive.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| nannas_ed |
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hans hartman wrote: USE UNBRAKO CAP HEAD BOLTS or machine washers to stand off the welds if you use hex.nuts,then check your plugs.by the way part no. on the pacies? i fitted mine to the heads,ground some welds and hammered some pipes,before i had them ceramic coated.heads are off-porting,i used the unbreako bolts,hex.drive. well its good to hear im not the only one who has this problem. i was thinking of hex bolts but wasnt sure whats available, im gonna head down to the but n bolt shop first thing tomorrow. i know im def gonna have to put a dent in that first pipe and am not to keen on grinding at the welds but if it has to be done then so be it. the clearance are so tight between the bolt head and pipe that i cant even get a ring spanner or socket on them. can only be done with an open ender and my kinchrome spanner starts to flex with the slightest amount of resistance.
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| MontGas |
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agreed with hans there, just did the same on my ph4006 comps on mu au v8.... was a F#cker of a thing!
Would have been nice if pace maker put a warning letter with the xtractors... warning need hex drive round bolts and s**t loads of patience. |
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| stavros68 |
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K-frame problem could be stuffed engine mounts,had the same problem.
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| hans hartman |
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when you buy the bolts get a impact in hex socket to fit them in 1\2 inch drive,wont break and the bolts in grade 10-12 high tensile-------sweet
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| nannas_ed |
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MontGas wrote: agreed with hans there, just did the same on my ph4006 comps on mu au v8.... was a F#cker of a thing! Would have been nice if pace maker put a warning letter with the xtractors... warning need hex drive round bolts and s**t loads of patience. Ha Ha your not wrong there. I swear it says on the pacemaker website 2 - 2 1/2 hrs to ft. CRAP
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| nannas_ed |
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stavros68 wrote: K-frame problem could be stuffed engine mounts,had the same problem. possibly. ill check em out tomorrow. see if the rubber plate still turns freely
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| nannas_ed |
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hans hartman wrote: when you buy the bolts get a impact in hex socket to fit them in 1\2 inch drive,wont break and the bolts in grade 10-12 high tensile-------sweet hey thanks for that, ive written that down and taped it to my wallet so i dont for get to take it with me to the nut n bolt shop
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| sd1800 |
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stavros68 wrote: K-frame problem could be stuffed engine mounts,had the same problem. I also had the same problem in the AU and it was the mounts. Header would bang up against it whenever I was in reverse.
_________________ Formerly LV XR5 Turbo, AU Fairmont Ghia V8 & EBII Fairmont I6. |
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| Scaffy |
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Would it help if you took them to an exhaust shop and get them to weld down the sides on the inside of the primary (cleaning it up so it interferes with flow as little as possible), then you can grind the outer weld without fear of exhaust leaks?
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| banarcus |
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The pacemakers that I fitted on my ED 5.0 went in like a finger in a bum. Absolutely no problems at all whatsoever. I'd grind a small bit of the welds to clear the bolts on yours though. Don't worry about cracking etc, these pipes are put together great, inside and out!
Mine took about 2 hours to put in, including welding up/flanging the standard cats. |
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| hans hartman |
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and,whats going on?
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| ToranaGuy |
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The paceys in both of the EB Xr8's i have don't look anywhere near that tight, but i'm not sure what model they are.
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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