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rounded bolt heads 

 

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 Post subject: rounded bolt heads
Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:41 pm 
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i have a rounded bolt head on my xr8 waterpump and cant seem to get it off. i tried vice grips, smashing a slightly smaller socket on and it wont budge. theres not much room there and i was wondering if anyone had any tricks?? Cheers Falconeirs

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 9:14 pm 
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go down to the hardware store and buy some easy outs, drill a hole in the bolt, wind in the easy out and out it comes - might have to take the radiator(s) out though..it worked for me anyway.. cheers mate
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 9:37 pm 
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yeah that or try a chisle to hit it off. also hit it hard with a punch and a hammer which can stretch it and make it come out much easyer.
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:33 pm 
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Dont use an easy out while the head is still on the bolt! An easy out is extremely brittle, and should only be used when there is no or very little pressure on the bolt. If the bolts head was rounded, chances are its in there tight :(

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:08 pm 
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be careful with using force as the bolts go into the alloy timing cover and if you damage that its $800 for a new one. I would try to file some of the edges enough to get a smaller good quality socket or spanner onto it. Then there is always the welding trick where you tack on a rod or something to the head of the bolt, never used it myself but heard of a few people using it with success.
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:34 am 
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I have a set of metrinch spanners, that are tops for getting burred nuts/bolts off.Provided there not too far gone.
They bite into the sides not drive the corners.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 1:05 am 
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Yes try single hex or impact socket ? Maybe too late now...Can you grind head off and get to it after water pump has come out? Hitting directly on head of bolt can loosen threads...Even tho it's not a Dart...

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 1:40 am 
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Dont ever disregard heat as well - I have had to use a small welding tip on the oxy to remove rounded bolts. Heat only the head of the bolt slowly bringing it up to temperature making sure to allow the heat to soak right down the length of the bolt - while it is warm try getting some CRC/WD40 if you have moved it at all - and try to get a correct 6 point socket on it. Sometimes you have to resort to visegrips but if so make sure it is the last resort.... When you put it back together - ANTISEIZE the entire length of the bolt to stop the corrosion from the alloy waterpump to seize it in ever again.
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:28 am 
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Try rattle gun sockets or if really desperate weld another bolt onto the rounded one.
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 11:54 am 
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buy a cheap socket and weld it onto the bolt
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:14 pm 
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If you know some one with a Dremel they have a very small cutting tool that you can use to cut a nice slot in to the head then get an impact screw driver and it will come with the combination of the force and shock. Othere than that get a good sidchrome type socket (then it wont hurt the socket and will cut in properly) one that wont quite fit over the rounded bolt head and with a hammer hammer it down the head bolt as far as you can. Use a T-Bar not a ratchet and use the hammer on the T-Bar to crack the seal.
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:29 pm 
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The dremel idea probably wont work if the bolt has been rounded. Rember, if its got a rounded head, its in there tight! And limited room also. But some good ideas are surfacing

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:00 pm 
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Andrew J wrote:
The dremel idea probably wont work if the bolt has been rounded. Rember, if its got a rounded head, its in there tight! And limited room also. But some good ideas are surfacing


Done it before on some pretty bad bolts, anythings worth a try before you easy out. I once spent over four hours clean up after snapping the easy out. (Not fun)
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:17 pm 
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I can tell you now you are in for a world of fun.

Let's hope it's not the bolt at the far right or the far left of the water pump?

You will find that (eventually) when it all comes off, the bolt is not siezed in the thread of the engine. Rather, it is siezed in the timing cover - rust, crud, sorrosion and sealant.

Take your time. I thought mine was a lost case, but persisted and managed to sort it all out (after 4 weekends of trying s**t).

As EDXR8 mentioned - the timing covers are expensive. I'd take shane's advice and get some heat onto it. If the bolt head shears off completely, we had a bit of luck on mine using stud extracting sockets.

When its all said and done, get some stainless bolts from coventry fasteners (just take your old ones in there) and dont hold back on the antisieze!!

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:59 pm 
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paulhowes wrote:
Andrew J wrote:
The dremel idea probably wont work if the bolt has been rounded. Rember, if its got a rounded head, its in there tight! And limited room also. But some good ideas are surfacing


Done it before on some pretty bad bolts, anythings worth a try before you easy out. I once spent over four hours clean up after snapping the easy out. (Not fun)


Four hours? Is that all? A guy on here previously used one of the tap in style easy outs to remove a lower thermostat housing bolt on an i6, and snapped it off. He had some great fun trying to get it out. Ended up drilling it, and went of course, and had to get a helicoil in the head if i remember correctly. But even then, as it went of course, the housing didnt line up quite right, so he had to modify the edge of the inlet manifold to get it to fit. Fun fun fun! Oh, and if anyone is going to use easyouts, id recomend the screw type. They have an opposite thread on them, so they bight in deeper as you increase the pressure. and if they do snap off, theyre a lot easier ( a lot!) to get out.

 

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