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stalling - need help! 

 

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 Post subject: stalling - need help!
Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:04 am 
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been happening for a few weeks. when driving car will stall, when completing a turn or idling at lights.
revs go up to around 1000rpm then back to 200rpm then it stalls. the warning light on the volt meter comes on aswell.
anyone ideas on how to fix it?
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 12:38 pm 
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clean up your ISC... it bolts onto the side of the throttle body..

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 12:50 pm 
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How are your TPS values? Are they sitting on .9v?

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:19 pm 
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i tried cleaning the ISC but didnt help. how do i test the voltage at the tps?
could it be anything else?
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:34 pm 
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Are you running an aftermarket computer or performance chip?

Mine used to hunt / stall when it wasnt tuned properly.

 

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1993 ED Fairmont - Cobalt Blue, 5L, 17" CSA's and not much else.
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 3:16 pm 
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im running a unichip. mite pay to get it tuned again and some new leads.
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:09 pm 
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Yeah - I run a unichip too.

In the meantime before you get it retuned, try increasing the idle a tiny bit (adjust the screw on the trottle body)... see if that helps.

 

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1993 ED XR8 - Poly Green, AFR 185 Alloy heads, Edlebrock Performer RPM Manifold, Crane 2031, T56 6 Speed, 3.9 diff, = 205.7 rwkw.
1993 ED Fairmont - Cobalt Blue, 5L, 17" CSA's and not much else.
1969 Mustang Fastback - Gunmetal Grey, 302, Auto, LHD. Doesn't go very hard, but looks sexy as !

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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:23 pm 
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i might try that, but will that cure the stalling? currently idles at around 600-750rpm.
increase it to around 800-900 u reakon?

if i was to put a manual in it, what sorta power would that free up u reakon? its currently 186rwkw
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:34 pm 
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A good tune should fix any hunting / stalling issues... but the cheap temp fix is to up the idle.

Manual will have less drivetrain loss, not sure how much though - I have never really played with Auto V8s.

 

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1993 ED XR8 - Poly Green, AFR 185 Alloy heads, Edlebrock Performer RPM Manifold, Crane 2031, T56 6 Speed, 3.9 diff, = 205.7 rwkw.
1993 ED Fairmont - Cobalt Blue, 5L, 17" CSA's and not much else.
1969 Mustang Fastback - Gunmetal Grey, 302, Auto, LHD. Doesn't go very hard, but looks sexy as !

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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:55 pm 
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ok then, tossing up whether to get a manual. id need an manual ecu too yes?
where do u get ur unichip tuned? and how much?
also what spark plugs should i get, running gt40p heads from T3?
thanks
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 7:25 pm 
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gunit18 wrote:
where do u get ur unichip tuned? and how much?


Mate, have a talk to Spiro @ Autotech in Granville.. He'll sort you out.

EDIT: Sorry mate, i should have checked your location.

Last edited by Bassfreak55 on Sun Apr 30, 2006 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 7:53 pm 
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gunit - I get my unichip tuned in sydney, so thats not going to be much help to you.

Sorry - dont know anyone in melbourne who does them yet.

Someone people say you can run a Manual with an Auto ECU fine. I currently have an auto ecu in my fairmont (manual xr6 running gear), and I find it awfull. Keeps trying to kick down under load, and seems to have lost a lot of power.

 

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www.XR8Chic.com
1993 ED XR8 - Poly Green, AFR 185 Alloy heads, Edlebrock Performer RPM Manifold, Crane 2031, T56 6 Speed, 3.9 diff, = 205.7 rwkw.
1993 ED Fairmont - Cobalt Blue, 5L, 17" CSA's and not much else.
1969 Mustang Fastback - Gunmetal Grey, 302, Auto, LHD. Doesn't go very hard, but looks sexy as !

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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:10 pm 
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Hi i can help with a set of GT40P heads and xr8-dismantler has a full el 5speed conversion for abotu 2,500.00
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Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:21 pm 
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thanks but i already got ported gt40p's. was thinking about the manual conversion but then i need another manual ecu.
would i need a manual ecu if i installed say a wolf/ems/motech aftermarket ecu?
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Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 2:44 am 
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Yeah you would cause transmission is controlled by the standard ecu, which runs all your other electrics etc. You'd need a independant transmission controler but big $$$

I'd look at TPS, that will most likely be the culprit. Put a multimetre into connectors and turn the dual TPS until both read 0.9volts. This is something that mick webb doesn't do cause the holes of the TPS need elongating. This will effect the way your transmission performs as well and idle/hunting etc. Once you know you have done this right, then you can adjust your idleto around 700 rpm

 

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