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UPDATE: My engine WAS filled with whipped cream!!! Aaargh! 

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 10:20 pm 
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far out i know some guys get hardons when they see a v8, but thats just goin too far..

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:33 pm 
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sasr wrote:
lol, that sucks man.

If you give me some chemicals involved I could do some reactions to see what the hell the mf of that stuff is!


Should be a pretty simple mixture, oil, water and ford coolant... Apparently ethylene glycol (in coolant) is a co-solvent which may work to stop the oil and water mix from seperating... Great!!

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 2:43 pm 
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The biggest problem that you're gona have is, Even if you get it cleaned up and rebuild it, If the oil galleries aren't clean you may end up destroying it again.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 2:46 pm 
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Squirt wrote:
The biggest problem that you're gona have is, Even if you get it cleaned up and rebuild it, If the oil galleries aren't clean you may end up destroying it again.


Hot tanking, or acid bath cleans the block inside and out, if an acid bath eats cam bearings, it will definately eat the sludge.

EF302, did any of the crap make its way back into the radiator at all? may be worth getting that, and the heater core flushed?
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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 6:53 pm 
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66 coupe wrote:
Squirt wrote:
The biggest problem that you're gona have is, Even if you get it cleaned up and rebuild it, If the oil galleries aren't clean you may end up destroying it again.


Hot tanking, or acid bath cleans the block inside and out, if an acid bath eats cam bearings, it will definately eat the sludge.

EF302, did any of the crap make its way back into the radiator at all? may be worth getting that, and the heater core flushed?


The coolant system seems to be completely clear... Obviously the water pressure was greater then the oil and so water was forced into oil galleries and not vice versa.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 3:32 pm 
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my god! that is absolutely crazy... it looks like pancake mix!

Perhaps its time for an AU motor? :P

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:26 pm 
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Wow dude...i have never seen that before but damn thats nasty.

If its water and oil obviously it won't mix very well...but in some cases emulsion can occur where the water will mix together and the droplet sizes of each are equal making the stuff you got there...but since oil and water don't mix well, the water would have mixed with ethylene glycol which you say is present in the coolant. That stuff is used for anti-freeze purposes but since aussie weather don't really hit below zero in most areas...its pretty much pointless but if there isn't much in the coolant then there shouldn't be much of a problem.

Ethylene glycol mixing with a silver anode through electrolysis can be quite dangerous too...so dont make them mix..

i also found this: http://www.practicingoilanalysis.com/ar ... ilAnalysis

might come in handy to understand what just happened.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:33 pm 
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nerd :lol:

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:39 pm 
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shut up mark lol...by the way for those who don't want to read that article i posted...this is how some companies remove glycol contamination with oil.

Quote:
Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines
A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:

1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.

2. Install new filter elements.

3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.

4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C).

5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.

7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.

8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.

9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize.

 

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EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:41 pm 
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punktured wrote:
nerd :lol:


I'm more concerned that he said something semi intelligent, rather than just post whoring as per usual...

Are you OK today Phong? :?
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:54 pm 
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arm79 wrote:
punktured wrote:
nerd :lol:


I'm more concerned that he said something semi intelligent, rather than just post whoring as per usual...

Are you OK today Phong? :?


I'm feeling a little bit sick Adrian :( must be a heat stroke ;)

I am a scientist after all :P

phong =P~

 

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Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 8:29 pm 
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i had a BF that filled the oil with coolant and the coolant with oil (one head bolt wasnt tapped all the way) and the only thing that would make it budge was a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water and degreaser
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:44 pm 
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Wow I just remembered that they use Glycol in explosives. And Ethylene basically is just Ethene minus a few hydrocarbons. Thats a mixture for something big bangalike.

ok, Ethylene Glycol = C2H602....I think were safe of the whole silver anode thing. Well whatever has happened I doubt it reacted with an acid I would be guessing more the extreme heats is what produced that white stuff...

This may sound dumb but have you tried a detergent?

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 12:45 am 
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sasr wrote:
Wow I just remembered that they use Glycol in explosives. And Ethylene basically is just Ethene minus a few hydrocarbons. Thats a mixture for something big bangalike.

ok, Ethylene Glycol = C2H602....I think were safe of the whole silver anode thing. Well whatever has happened I doubt it reacted with an acid I would be guessing more the extreme heats is what produced that white stuff...

This may sound dumb but have you tried a detergent?


Problem is there is no acid in the engine...only in the battery as far as i know. Though the heat definitely played a role in making that stuff...probably increased the reaction causing that stuff to occur more rapidly.

I agree with sasr...try putting detergent in or something basic (alkyl...opposite to acid) and see how that goes. I don't think heat will do much good in this case.

Maybe try acetone on a small area and see how that goes. May not be a base but might just do something *shrugs*.

good luck

phong =P~

 

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EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:48 am 
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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