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what mafs do you run? 

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:22 pm 
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The best thing you can do EF 4.9 is move your MAF ahead of the blower.
Blowing through any MAF other than one designed to is not a good idea.

Pete.
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:31 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:
The best thing you can do EF 4.9 is move your MAF ahead of the blower.
Blowing through any MAF other than one designed to is not a good idea.

Pete.


So place it between the guard and the blower inlet? Phew, tight fit - but you seem fairly adament on this point. Will also allow me to remove the 90 degree bend and replace with 2 x 45 degrees.... what do people usually construct intakes from? considering of course that i have no metalworking skills...

So the theory is less turbulance on the hotwire?? Improvements in accuracy at low throttle or across the board?

I assume this means bypass valve should be plumbed back into intake.. After the blower? Same with the PCV breather hose? (this currently comes from the filler neck and plumbs into the intake, just before the blower inlet)

Just for interest, whats the difference in design with a "proper" blow through?

Thnks pete

Sorry to steal your thread jmartion

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:47 pm 
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4.9 EF Futura wrote:

Sorry to steal your thread jmartion


tis cool... its handy info for me anyway.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 6:08 pm 
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4.9 EF Futura wrote:
So place it between the guard and the blower inlet? Phew, tight fit - but you seem fairly adament on this point. Will also allow me to remove the 90 degree bend and replace with 2 x 45 degrees.... what do people usually construct intakes from? considering of course that i have no metalworking skills...


Yeah that is exactly what i did and yes it is a tight fit. I did it for a couple of reasesn, first I was told it was better for accuracy, second I already had a MAF which would not go where the CAPA kit had it and thirdly I hated that 90 degree bend. I ran the Pro-M bullet right as it went through the wheel arch (still inside the engien bay) and that was ok, now I actually run my new MAF down in the front spoiler with the pod directly fitted to it. The only downside of a draw through setup is that the bypass valve needs to go back into the intake, can't vent to atmosphere.
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 9:42 pm 
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Heres the 75mm chrome bullet.

 

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 11:28 pm 
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Yes, turbulent air from the blower will result in erratic MAF readings and that's everywhere in the rev range.
There is a reason all Factory forced Fords are draw through.
The Pro-M univer is or was the only periferal sampling MAF and this was the only way to do it properly. It was really designed for twin turbo applications where ease of plumbing was required. Some of the twin turbo mobs like Incon made a really long MAF/inlet tube but it's still hit and miss. The idea was that by the time it(the air) had reached the hot wire it had settled itself down a bit....not true.

I usually tig weld ally or stainless tubing to make my inlet tubing. Make sure you purge weld it because it keeps the inside smooth. There are some good truck inlet rubber bends available too. I used 90mm I.D. rubber on my ute with a 90mm stainless tube I rolled up out of thin sheet.
Then when I switched to an 88mm t-body, I made a 100mm I.D. ally one with joiners at the t-body and MAF.
If you can't do this yourself go to someone who makes custom headers....if they can't do it you don't want them making your headers either :wink:

Oh yeah to stay on the thread. I use a Pro-M 80. I've also used a bored out(59mm) 55mm stock MAF, FRPP 70mm plastic ,Pro-M 75, 70mm Cobra, 80mm Cobra, Hogged out 80mm Cobra, C&L 73mm, C&L 80. I'm also going to use a 90mm Lightning MAF on my ute next(when Ive built the 351w).

Pete.
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 11:54 pm 
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Off topic but Pete, do you know a good supplier of rubber elbows. I have been trying to track down a 3.5" to 4" 90 degree bend like this one (http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merchant2 ... ry_Code=9D) but can't find anyone with a good range.
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:26 am 
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That looks exactly like the one I used on my ute....except I chopped mine up.
I got it from Coventrys. It's truck inlet stuff apparently.
Have you got Caledit 130A10? It doesn't have the screwy MAF axes that A9 has.

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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:31 am 
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Ahh excellent I will try Coventrys, I hope there is one over here in SA. Yeah I am running the Caledit 130A10, the older version of A10 had the normal kg/hr MAF axes however the new one Mike sent me to test the RT functions (and the new A9 update on the tweecer site) is still in that lb/clock which makes it difficult.
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:50 am 
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Ah ok, I thought you had Covs over there. I seem to remember buying some bolts at a place like coventrys when we drove over for the 75th aniversary Ford bash.
I'll have to talk to mike about that.

Pete.
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:59 am 
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Yeah there is Convetry fastners but they really only do bolts etc, I see they list Motortraders as part of their group and we have plenty of them here so I will check them out. And yeah I was going to let Mike know but I was waiting till I had some datalogs to send through to him as well so he can fix all the bugs in one hit, hopefully I can get it out on the road next week and get those logs for him. The MAF thing should be a simple thing, he obviosuly just forgot to apply the conversion formula.
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:21 pm 
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this is what i have anyway...

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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:29 pm 
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And this is the 90mm LMAF I have, don't have any pics of it installed yet. Really nice unit but unless you are running forced induction it is probably just to difficult to install as it has 100mm inlet/outlets.

 

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 3:31 pm 
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thats big.

 

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