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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 3:24 pm 
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im bout to buy a 351 w roller block. Should i get it with a sump and modify to fit my el k frame??>

Also should i get the 5.8 dizzy? will it work with my eec5 and ems?

Apparently the blocks they import are all standard bore, is there anything else i need to look for?

Any help appreciated.
CHeers
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 3:31 pm 
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302 and 351W sumps are dfferent so get the sump. Get the dizzy, the lenghts are different, wiring is similar, with a diagram they can be configured to work with the EECV. If using the EMS, then the EMS will control the spark not the EECV, so shouldn't be a problem.
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:29 am 
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ok thanks. Should i also try get a lower intake and match it to an edel brock one? 5.8's have square port's where the manifold's split yeah? Also i read they hat 8.8 comp, will this lower with my gt 40's as i'm planning on leaving the bottom end stock for now with 8 psi boost?
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 5:36 pm 
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Don't bother getting the sump because it will be a rear/bronco sump pan you'll have chop off the entire sump below the pan rail to use it. Just get an early Falcon/Mustang front sump 351w pan.
You need the 5.8 dizzy.
Your stock EEC/ harness will plug straight in and run the whole show..
The comp will be about 9:1 with 40P's because their chamber is slightly smaller than an E7.
However it doesn't matter what the stock compression is...just use the right pistons when you rebuild the engine.
The truck lower will not be able to be matched to an Edelbrock upper. Get a complete Edelbrock intake.
8psi with cast pistons is dumb!
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 8:21 am 
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Yep, you will get away with compression and boost as long as the slugs don't sit too far down the bore (within reason of co a rse). I usually aim for around 5thou down the bore or slightly more; quench area = 40-50thou that way.

 

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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:46 pm 
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skidder- you say the std pistons will be ok?? not sure what you meant bout slugg??

XR9-
ok i think i found correct sumps, from mustang- on ebay for bout $80.
Ok so comp with cast pistons is dumb, i thought maybe they were forges as in some later efi 302's?
Will try get some low comp ones. What comp would you reccomend. Im thinking around 8.5:1? Also are my gt40p heads 64cc chambers?
Roughly how far did your extractors move towards towers, im fitting turbo manifolds (302) and i was expecting them to be reasonably tight but hope they fir with 351?

Thanks guys.
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:22 am 
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You could get away with it, but I wouldn't plan on making any big power...I have seen 400hp from stock 351's with boost though.

I more meant that if you upgrade pistons and rods make sure the pistons at TDC aren't too far down the bore; from memory stock they are 25-30thou down, giving aroound 70-80thou of quench which is definately at the upper end of what i would be running. Something around 5-10thou down the bore giving a total quench of 40-50thou will make it more resistant to detonation.

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:42 pm 
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ok, am gonna try fund for low comp pistons, and re-bore and o ring deck while im at it? pretty much turning into a rebuild????

Will low comp forged's be a strong enough combo with standard rods and crank? There is a guy on ebay who has two brand new 351w cranks still in ford box. Wants 220 for each??

just wanted to do turbos and then later do bottom end but now have to do pistons. and then later if i want to stroke to over 400 ill have to get new pistons again....i really dont want to be doing two rebuilds. But i know what your thinking,, do it all now!?!
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:58 pm 
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How much power do you want? A blown or a stroked (on their own) 351 with pull 500+hp easily. What box do you intend to put behind it again?

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 6:46 pm 
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have strenghtened 4sp but probably a top loader
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 6:54 pm 
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I think u better go for a C4 or AOD for a auto and probably a better manual transmission as u dont want to breake things a pay double the money.

 

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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:12 pm 
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skidder- i have worked out my stacked height. Using a .03'' gasket i have a quench of 0.053? is this ok? Rods are forged h beams? and am not aiming on revving past 7000.
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 Post subject: Re: windsor roller block
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 8:07 am 
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Yep, I have always been told (and relied upon) around 40-50thou (over is okay, I wouldn't go under, even though I have seen it done before).

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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