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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:33 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
6.8k should work fine. The auto neutral range is from 6.5k-7.6k. 7k is generally used as a roundabout figure.
(Sorry to cut in Dave)


^^^ What he said, he knows more than me!

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:33 am 
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voxace wrote:
What he said, he knows more than me!
Only because I've had 20+yrs more mistakes to learn from. 8-)

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:15 pm 
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my car is already manual but refuses to "see" the resistors to run el computer,, :evil:

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:26 pm 
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4nik8 wrote:
my car is already manual but refuses to "see" the resistors to run el computer,, :evil:


Sorry but that post of yours really doesn't make much sense. Do you mean that you have done the conversion, done the wiring mod, but the ECU your using won't run the car?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:46 pm 
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it starts and runs without the resistors using the el computer,,but i cant get round the "netural start switch" code...and wont do KOEO test..

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:51 pm 
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Well.. If its a factory manual, chances are the netural switch is still plugged in.

And if you are using an auto ECU, you are effectively shorting out those terminals, and the ECU wont do the test correctly.
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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:09 pm 
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Back on to spigot bearings for a sec, This is what ford gave me..

Looks a little diff to the one pictured in Vox's guide, so I thaught id post it to make sure im on the right track, its also notched on one side, so I assume it has to be mounted a particular direction.

And no I didnt buy two of them but through the magic of Photoshop the bearing can sit next to itself :D

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:39 pm 
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That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.

The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank.
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Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 12:58 am 
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arm79 wrote:
That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.

The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank.


I take it the puller is so you don't have to remove the flywheel & press the bearing out?

I didn't pay too much attention to my flywheel,spigot, fork, clutch & plate, as the clutch fork had a genuine ford part sticker on it, it was only 12mths old, the clutch & pressure plate had also done very little work before i acquired them. Almost no wear in them at all, or on the flywheel. I just fit it all into my EB.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 10:15 am 
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ToranaGuy wrote:
arm79 wrote:
That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.

The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank.


I take it the puller is so you don't have to remove the flywheel & press the bearing out?


There is no other way to remove the bearing. And the bearing is pressed into the crank, not the flywheel.
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Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 10:58 pm 
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arm79 wrote:
ToranaGuy wrote:
arm79 wrote:
That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.

The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank.


I take it the puller is so you don't have to remove the flywheel & press the bearing out?


There is no other way to remove the bearing. And the bearing is pressed into the crank, not the flywheel.


Well s**t hey! I really paid attention to that when i was re-assembling my engine & T5! I'm too used to playing with cars that the spigot is inserted into the flywheel. I wonder if that tool can be bought from somewhere like bursons or you have to buy it from ford?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 4:27 pm 
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Thats a really good guide, I almost thinK i could do it to the NL :)

 

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Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 4:41 pm 
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um i have just noticed a small problem...

i followed the guide on electronics section exactly, has been running fine for ages now, but yesterday i tried starting it while in gear and it didnt jump, the inhibitor switch is still active.

eg; i can start with gear in "n" and cltch in or out, put it in gear and try and start it with either clutch in or out and it does nothing.

have i done somthing wrong? as i thought it was supposed to disable the inhibitor switch.

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Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 5:40 pm 
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Nah that's how I like it.
If you want to start it in gear, you just have to join the two wires that go to the neutral switch, or run a a set of wires in parallel to a clutch switch as well.

 

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Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 8:32 pm 
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voxace wrote:
Nah that's how I like it.
If you want to start it in gear, you just have to join the two wires that go to the neutral switch, or run a a set of wires in parallel to a clutch switch as well.


With my car, because i used the manual ecu & gearbox loom, i can start mine in gear, and let me tell you i've done that a few times since converting. :oops: I'd be happier if it didn't, to be honest it's a good safety thing, you can't accidently start your car and have it jump into something or someone.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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