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351C cooling troubles
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EBXR8380
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get it presure checked...Was it prone to this before overhaul ?Is it just getting hot or preurising and blowing coolant out? Could be anything from split bore, head gasgets not fitted corectly,cracked head, water pump not working properly??
If radiator has been left to dry out the crud inside dries out and blocks the fine tubes inside...
Fan etc shouldn't make much difference if you are crussing along at an easy 50 k or so...Is the shrouds around fan?
Double check timing at 3.000 rpm mark ballancer at 30* check how far it advances ???
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EBXR8380 wrote:
Get it presure checked...Was it prone to this before overhaul ?Is it just getting hot or preurising and blowing coolant out? Could be anything from split bore, head gasgets not fitted corectly,cracked head, water pump not working properly??
If radiator has been left to dry out the crud inside dries out and blocks the fine tubes inside...
Fan etc shouldn't make much difference if you are crussing along at an easy 50 k or so...Is the shrouds around fan?
Double check timing at 3.000 rpm mark ballancer at 30* check how far it advances ???

i'll check the advance next weekend, i probably won't have time this week.
I'm gonna get some prices on a new radiator, as i think it might be the problem, being old, probably does need a professional clean out.

When i park the car the radiator cap pressure is exceeded, therfore the fluid flows into the overflow bottle, and it loses around 2+ litres.

The 2x thermos have a sheet-alloy shroud, with 2x 12in holes cut out.
This is mounted hard on the radiator, and i think that could also be a problem.
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raiki
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With your shroud as you say your radiator only has about 226 square inches of flow area. Now IIRC your radiator is probably about 18" x 30" rectangular right. This gives 540 sq Inches.

Your shroud is in effect halving your radiator surface area. That would no doubt cause overheating. I'd drop that shroud and change it so that each thermo is in a 'tunnel' that fits closely to the radiator and goes behind the fan about 1/2". The rest of the radiator is open.
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

raiki wrote:
With your shroud as you say your radiator only has about 226 square inches of flow area. Now IIRC your radiator is probably about 18" x 30" rectangular right. This gives 540 sq Inches.

Your shroud is in effect halving your radiator surface area. That would no doubt cause overheating. I'd drop that shroud and change it so that each thermo is in a 'tunnel' that fits closely to the radiator and goes behind the fan about 1/2". The rest of the radiator is open.

Not trying to put a spin on your thoughts but having the rest of the radiator open hurts cooling performance - the car companies don't shroud there fans for nothing. If your car is overheating at speed and at idle I will give you 2 possiblities - your radiator is blocked or your waterpump is not flowing enough. Was the water pump new?
Shane
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raiki
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shane, the key to what I was talking about is where smokin_rubber says the alloy shroud is hard up against the radiator. In factory ones the air through the radiator is 'ducted' through the thermo opening because the shroud is set back. This way the small swept area of the thermo applies vacumm to the whole radiator.
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrLandau wrote:
your radiator is blocked or your waterpump is not flowing enough. Was the water pump new?
Shane

The water pump isn't old, probably a year old? or so.
Yeah im gonna go with getting a new radiator, and probably get a pair of ef/el/au twin thermos.
I'll do the radiator first and see if it makes a difference.

raiki - that makes sense cause although the radiator has the thermos, the area that is directly covered is getting no airflow.

Thanks for all your help fellas, much apreciated, i'll let you's know how it goes within the week.
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

by the way is 73 degrees too early for a thermostat to be opening?
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

also, the timing is 6 degrees before top dead centre (recommended by the place who did my rebuild).
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EBXR8380
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smoke_rubber wrote:
also, the timing is 6 degrees before top dead centre (recommended by the place who did my rebuild).


Yep thats conservative ..But you need to know what its at in load rpm as well especially now youre having these issues...You springs in dissy relativley tight??? Like it doesn't advance too easy / quick....
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah i'll check higher rpm timing, but if it's not revving much, it wouldn't be much more different would it?
cause the heating is happening at low rpm's.
oh well can't hurt to check.
any recommendations of good radiator makers and/or suppliers?
thanks for every1's help
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skootin
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What sort of mods where done to engine IE porting camshaft(mild-wild)
block bored oversize. Have you changed intake carby. You could be running leaner at cruise speed if the engine is working better increasing heat.There is so many problems following rebuilds like the scale coming of the inside off the block and clogging up the bottom of the radiator this can be your problem. If the engine was built using quality parts you should have no problem's after you get it fixed'
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raiki
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you spend a s**t load of money I would remove the thermos and the shroud and go for a drive without fans at all. Do it on the highway and take a support vehicle.

At highway speeds fans just get in the way. This test will let you know if your radiator is up to the task.
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was gonna rip the shroud off and zip-tie the thermos to the radiator and go for a cruise, but i only got home around 20 min ago.

engine mods - custom medium spec cam, acl race pistons, 6in 302 rods, 9.8:1 compression, 20thou over, comp valve springs, edelbrock performer, nothing special, but goes alright, probably more mods, i just can't remember them off the top of my head.
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i ended up taking the shroud off, and zip-tied the thermos onto the radiator.
the car ran just over halfway on the freeway, but got hotter around town.
the zipties are only temporary to try a few things out.
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skootin
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In one of your earlier post you said that it is pushing water out overflow.
When running does it have constant bubbles in the radiator. If so bad news.
Try this when engine is dead cold start engine and check cyl heads that they are heating up evenly ie frt to back side to side if one side is heating up before the other OOPS head gasket upside down.
The thermostat mod may be a good option only cut the plunger part out and put the outer back in as small restriction.

Does the person responsible for assembling the engine know about your problems.
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hardly any water came out of the overflow today, that's after i ripped the shroud off.
I'll try the warmup test on the heads tomorrow.
i've checked for bubbles, none.
Heater is not connected, just bypassed.
I should ring them to check on the head hasket fitment, but im starting to think it's a combination of the radiator and thermos which aren't powerful enough.
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raiki
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silly question but are your thermos turning the right way ???? May have a reverse polarity problem ?????

The leading edge of the blade should be closest to the radiator and the negative camber should be on the engine side.

Another thing, are your thermos the blow through or the suck through variety and are they fitted the way they were designed ??
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thermos are the right way, they're mounted at the back of the radiator, sucking the air through the radiator, and they're the right way.
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nasty351
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

might be bit off the topic but my 302 in my stockie gets fairly warm, bout 98 deg an i got a V8 falcon rad in the front and a big a*** 80 series landcruiser one sittin in the bak with four thermos and a shroud. haha
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2005 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it runs cool when cruising at 60+ km/h, even when you get up it on the freeway, it runs cool.
The temp climbs when slow or stopped at a set of lights.
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