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351C cooling troubles
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:21 pm    Post subject: 351C cooling troubles Reply with quote

Ok. I have a worked 351 cleveland in my ute.
The problem i'm having is it is heating up (gauge goes in the red) after around 20-30 min.
I have twin thermos on it, and they don't seem powerful enough.
Does anyone know why?
would you recommend that i take the thermostat out? (don't think it's a good idea, but if it helps, i will).
Also, i have the heater disconnected.
Would youu recomend i have 2 separate hoses blocked off (one for either side) or just loop the one hose?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as it has only done 110km on a new motor, and i don't wanna ruin it.
Thanks.
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What thermo's have you got on it, how old is the radiator and what does your air/fuel ratio look like?
Shane
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i forgot the brand of the fans, but im pretty sure they're not flowing as well as - au twin thermos.
radiator is a few years old, been flushed about 4 times within the year.
air/fuel, wouldn't have a clue, haven't had it on a dyno yet, too new to run it.
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a lot of problems with thermo's on my LTD. Went to an Aussie Desert cooler 3 pass radiator. The lack of engine bay airflow is also an issue - I jack the back of my bonnet up on the Landau to let the hot air out.
Shane
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrLandau wrote:
I had a lot of problems with thermo's on my LTD. Went to an Aussie Desert cooler 3 pass radiator. The lack of engine bay airflow is also an issue - I jack the back of my bonnet up on the Landau to let the hot air out.
Shane

yeah i was also thinking of raising the back of the bonnet.
i think some of the problem is the carby having to breathe the hot air in the engine bay (shaker to come in a few months).
Did the 3-pass radiator help?
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah it did help - so did removing the transcooler from the radiator and running a B&M transcooler.
Shane
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah i have a dedicated auto cooler too, i dont' wanna fry the box.
hey u seem to know a fair bit about the old fords.
The water pump has a small outlet for the heater, but i have this disconnected. would it be better to block both the inlet and outlet or loop a hose around?
And would you recommend removing the thermostat?
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EBXR8380
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leave thermo in as it keeps the whole engine at the same temp, so long as its working?? .I'd be inclined to block those heater hoses off ...It may prevent water pump efficiencey....Is there water flowing through engine on start up ?Double check timing and any inlet leaks...Hope head gasgets are fitted correctly?
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having the hose looped will help stop some of the cavitation - having the heater box hooked up adds a lot of water storage to the system which means you have more in reserve to heat up - also means you have more to cool down.
Removing the thermostat will not cool your car down - only prolong the problem. The water doesn't get enough time to cool down through the radiator and the water keeps getting hotter. The EF-AU thermofans will fit into a 3 core XF style radiator in your car. I always run 82' thermostats - but I drill a 1/8th hole in the steel ring to stop steam buildup behind the thermostat. This stops the cooling system "puking" when you stop the car - mine did it all the time.
Shane
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EBXR8380 - i just spent $4500 on a full rebuild, so i sure hope headgaskets are the right way!!
Timing is ok, no leaks anywhere.
The top hose dosen't get hot till the thermostat opens.
Thermostat also tests ok, opens around 5mm.

Mr Landau - yeah there is a 1/4in hole in my thermostat.

The car overheats, and im driving it around under 2000rpm.
Even on the highway it runs HOT, i need to get to the bottom of this, i can't afford to stuff the motor up.
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy answer - go back to the fixxed 7 blade fan and shroud untill you get some decent thermos in there.
What water pump are you running ?
Shane
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'd have to buy a fan and shroud, the old shroud s**t itself when i broke an engine mount (before i did the rebuild) and the fan was missing a blade so i threw the sucker out.
it had one of those flex fans, i dunno how good they are.
might have to go out and invest in a cheap pair of ef/el/au thermos from the wreckers, just to experiment with.
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a guy on ebay selling them all the time (aftermarket ones) for $185
Check him out
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks dude i just might.
do the aftermarket ones flow as good as the genuine ones?
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MrLandau
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couldn't really tell you - but we have fitted the aftermarket ones to customers cars with no problems.
Shane
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hornet
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flexi fans are evil! They have a habit of thowing blades off and piercing ur bonnet icon_sad.gif

Having said that, there is one on my 351C XY at the moment. Talking to a guy from a radiator shop, he recommends a 6 blade plastic fan that can be bought from supercheap. He runs them on quiet a few clients races cars and hasn't had a problem and gets good results.

My car currently has a side by side 2 core in it, instead of the under and over 3 core (previous owner was a d**k) I'm aiming to get a under and over 3 core, and fit a VN shroud and thermo to it, based on recommendation.
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EBXR8380
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lets go back alittle ??? This set up worked before right ? With same fan etc...Imo flex fans are about as practical as an ashtray on a motorbike!!!
Did you use the same radiator ? Did you let it dry out? If so the crud in there may have flaked off and blocked the tubes ???
A bloody good flush and radiator clean would be my first option...
At times we can't see the forest for the trees....
In this case I hope it's true.... Graeme...
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes i used the same radiator.
I gave it a flush this morning, new coolant, new hoses, checked thermostat again - was ok.
The car did get hot when i had it on the road (over 1 year ago).
Today it lost around a litre+ of fluid after i turned the key off, so obviously i have a serious problem.
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smoke_
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

also my thermostat is either 71, 72, or 73 degrees, i cant remember.
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Disco Frank
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude get a professional flush at a rad joint flushign your rad at home will not get teh same results. also maybe a new radiator is needed.
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