Home |  Forums |  Search |  My Profile |  Chat  Photo Gallery |  Events Calendar |  Technical Documents  No messages |  New Posts |  Watched Topics |  Register   Advise on Panel & Paint up and going again Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next          Forum Index -> Exterior Modifications Latest ratings Highest-ranked posts Highest-ranked topics Highest-ranked posters   nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:23 pm    Post subject: MilleniumFalcon wrote: G'day nlbxr6 I took down my new front bar, rear bar and side skirts(bodykit) down to a recommended panelbeater to get painted, well a quote at first. I was then told that the rear bar was actually fibreglass and would need to be back filled, but I think the rest was plastic including the bonnet. They said they would call me an hr later to let me know how much it would set me back, called them yesterday and they have quoted me $1900 just to paint, front bar, rear bar, bonnet (both sides) and 2 side skirts. I am gobsmacked, but it doesn't sound right to me still. The car is a metallic AU forte Meteorite, H4. My question to you is does the price sound right or a bit over the top? I haven't taken a magnifying glass over the kit, but the rear bar does have minute bumps along the surface. does sound a bit rich to me if it is all brand new stuff I would look at around 250 for the front bar 200 each skirt 100 for the bonnet vents and 250 for the rear bar plus some repair if fibreglass Back to top MilleniumFalcon Fordmods - Smokin em up Age:25 Posts: 272 Joined: 29 Nov 2004 Location: Perth WA, Australia View User Gallery (20) Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:08 pm    Post subject: All from AWC, I have roughly checked to see if it will fit on fine, so far so good. They mailed me the quote, I asked for a quote just on painting, they have added in fitting as well, all up for $2175. I have removed the fitting side of things and its $520 to prepare, and about $175 to paint the bumpers. I'm assuming the L/H Sill Cover is my skirt. Back to top shoey50 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:23 Posts: 634 Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Location: sale VIC, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:20 pm    Post subject: hey mate am about to get my car sprayed soon but am preping i myself wondering if you could give me a few tips eg what brand fillers to use? what grades of sand paper to start of with and what o end with should it be dry or wet sanded any info would be great cheers mate Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:52 am    Post subject: . shoey50 wrote: hey mate am about to get my car sprayed soon but am preping i myself wondering if you could give me a few tips eg what brand fillers to use? what grades of sand paper to start of with and what o end with should it be dry or wet sanded any info would be great cheers mate If you are doing large dents or many over a large area use a 24 or 36 grit disc on a 7 inch sander to remove paint dont hold in one spot as it will heat the panel and distort it and always use a disc that isnt blunt and clogged with paint etc.Then use a good lightweight filler KandH infra or septone 2K knock the top off it with 36 grit until almost right shape finish with 80 and 120 then feather all paint edges with 240 before applying primer. If they are minor dents use some 36 or 60 grit on a random sander to rough up the surface then apply an ultra light weight filler {mainly used for chips etc between prime and paint stages}as it is easy to sand start with 80 grit and finish with 180 using a circular motion when sanding to prvent getting edges. Never apply filler or primer onto a surface that hasnt been sanded as it will lift and peel Dry rubbing is best until the final rub before painting Good Luck Back to top shoey50 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:23 Posts: 634 Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Location: sale VIC, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 12:47 pm    Post subject: thanks mate that should help a fair bit Back to top shoey50 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:23 Posts: 634 Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Location: sale VIC, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:50 am    Post subject: actually another question mate whats the best way to remove rust under where the scuff plate is if you dont have a welder? Back to top EBTS50 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:20 Posts: 696 Joined: 15 May 2006 Location: Boronia VIC, Australia View User Gallery (12) Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:57 am    Post subject: hey just wated to no the price of a respray on an EB ever glade geen with a bit of pearl and dont want to do the engine bay. o yer and a body kit to (sprint kit) cheers Duff Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:40 am    Post subject: shoey50 wrote: actually another question mate whats the best way to remove rust under where the scuff plate is if you dont have a welder? are there holes or just surface rust Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 10:07 am    Post subject: EBTS50 wrote: hey just wated to no the price of a respray on an EB ever glade geen with a bit of pearl and dont want to do the engine bay. o yer and a body kit to (sprint kit) cheers Duff Tough question all depends if you want a 2000 dollar job or a 10000 dollar job Shop around have a look at work coming out of different shops & remember you only get what you pay for Save yourself some money by stripping as much off the car as you can Average price will be around 5000 Back to top shoey50 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:23 Posts: 634 Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Location: sale VIC, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 12:56 pm    Post subject: nlbxr6 wrote: shoey50 wrote: actually another question mate whats the best way to remove rust under where the scuff plate is if you dont have a welder? are there holes or just surface rust no holes bit if i took back ther rust yeah proberly Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:16 pm    Post subject: . shoey50 wrote: nlbxr6 wrote: shoey50 wrote: actually another question mate whats the best way to remove rust under where the scuff plate is if you dont have a welder? are there holes or just surface rust no holes bit if i took back ther rust yeah proberly grab a wire wheel in a drill if there are some little holes clean it up the best you can knock the surface into a dent and use some fibre reinforced body filler {karglass or metal mend} then finish with body filler be sue to remove all the surface rust before using filler Back to top Cooper69s Fordmods Parts Gopher Age:32 Posts: 59 Joined: 19 Aug 2005 Location: Bunbury WA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:46 pm    Post subject: gday Nathan, i've got a question about clear coats - my AU2 is an ex-cop car an i assume its because of the flashing light they probably reached out and stuck on the roof that the clear coat has started peeling off the roof above the drivers door. so far its pretty much peeled off the whole raised section on the edge of the roof from near the windscreen back about 400mm or so. is it possible to just paint some clear coat over it again or will the whole roof need to be repainted? The colour is organza - coupla pics in the gallery but they don't show the bit i'm talking about... thanks Geoff Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:03 pm    Post subject: . Cooper69s wrote: gday Nathan, i've got a question about clear coats - my AU2 is an ex-cop car an i assume its because of the flashing light they probably reached out and stuck on the roof that the clear coat has started peeling off the roof above the drivers door. so far its pretty much peeled off the whole raised section on the edge of the roof from near the windscreen back about 400mm or so. is it possible to just paint some clear coat over it again or will the whole roof need to be repainted? The colour is organza - coupla pics in the gallery but they don't show the bit i'm talking about... thanks Geoff unfortunatly you will have to paint the whole roof depanding on how bad it is as to if you need to paint strip the remainder.If you start sanding with 240 on a buzzer you should be able to get it so there is no edge if when sanding you can see a shiny bit between the clear and the colour you will need to remove all the clear or it will start delaminating again Back to top Cooper69s Fordmods Parts Gopher Age:32 Posts: 59 Joined: 19 Aug 2005 Location: Bunbury WA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:07 pm    Post subject: cool... thanks mate Back to top XR_Matt Fordmods Newbie Age:42 Posts: 17 Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Location: Perth WA, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:45 pm    Post subject: Hey mate, i'm going to have a go at re-spraying my ute in the shed, two tone it with some graphics. I'm thinking on doing all the base coats and getting a spray paint shop to apply the clear coat. How hard is it to apply clear coat in a shed? It's a total colour change, so whats the best way of doing door jams. I like your dash panels that you re-sprayed, how do you go about doing it? Cheers for any info you can give me. Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 12:08 pm    Post subject: . XR_Matt wrote: Hey mate, i'm going to have a go at re-spraying my ute in the shed, two tone it with some graphics. I'm thinking on doing all the base coats and getting a spray paint shop to apply the clear coat. How hard is it to apply clear coat in a shed? It's a total colour change, so whats the best way of doing door jams. I like your dash panels that you re-sprayed, how do you go about doing it? Cheers for any info you can give me. This is a link to my dash post http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32873 If you are confident doing the base coat yourself why not have a go at the clear if you are doing it in acrylic its no harder than the base coat if 2K its a bit trickier but practice on the door jambs etc as I said to one of my apprentice I had doing a job for me the other day whats the worst that could happen You might get a run {which can be rubbed and buffed or touched up later Good luck Back to top XR_Matt Fordmods Newbie Age:42 Posts: 17 Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Location: Perth WA, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: . nlbxr6 wrote: XR_Matt wrote: Hey mate, i'm going to have a go at re-spraying my ute in the shed, two tone it with some graphics. I'm thinking on doing all the base coats and getting a spray paint shop to apply the clear coat. How hard is it to apply clear coat in a shed? It's a total colour change, so whats the best way of doing door jams. I like your dash panels that you re-sprayed, how do you go about doing it? Cheers for any info you can give me. This is a link to my dash post http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32873 If you are confident doing the base coat yourself why not have a go at the clear if you are doing it in acrylic its no harder than the base coat if 2K its a bit trickier but practice on the door jambs etc as I said to one of my apprentice I had doing a job for me the other day whats the worst that could happen You might get a run {which can be rubbed and buffed or touched up later Good luck So doing a acrylic base with a clear coat would be the way to go? Back to top Tickford_NA Fordmods Oompa Loompa Age:24 Posts: 20 Joined: 22 Feb 2005 Location: seymour VIC, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 1:35 pm    Post subject: K i have a few questions for you paint and body guru? On my 89 fairlane the chrome striping on the skirts has really started to go in a big way and 89 seemed to be the year that ford decide that useing real chrome was not a good idea anymore, i'm left with a fairly clean paint job that is totally ruined by crappy peeling fake plastic chrome.. long storie short i want to color match the bumpers and side dressings to the rest of the car, the car is silver the bumpers and sides are a dark brownish grey with a line of crappy fake chrome... just wondering what kind of work would be required to make shure the paint takes and hold for a long time without peeling or bubbling? the bumper's are plastic... also do you think i should paint the bumper making the whole car as one color, or with that look bland? any idea's? also i'm painting a escort in wild voilet, what would be a good base color for a bright finish? i also am putting to white stripes on the ridges down the sides of it, what measure's should i take to insure clean strong stripes, eg. befor the voilet, after the voilet?... thanks much buddy... Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:25 am    Post subject: . Tickford_NA wrote: K i have a few questions for you paint and body guru? On my 89 fairlane the chrome striping on the skirts has really started to go in a big way and 89 seemed to be the year that ford decide that useing real chrome was not a good idea anymore, i'm left with a fairly clean paint job that is totally ruined by crappy peeling fake plastic chrome.. long storie short i want to color match the bumpers and side dressings to the rest of the car, the car is silver the bumpers and sides are a dark brownish grey with a line of crappy fake chrome... just wondering what kind of work would be required to make shure the paint takes and hold for a long time without peeling or bubbling? the bumper's are plastic... also do you think i should paint the bumper making the whole car as one color, or with that look bland? any idea's? also i'm painting a escort in wild voilet, what would be a good base color for a bright finish? i also am putting to white stripes on the ridges down the sides of it, what measure's should i take to insure clean strong stripes, eg. befor the voilet, after the voilet?... thanks much buddy... First on the Fairlane you can remove all the chrome stripes easily as they are attatched with double sided tape use a prepsol {wax & grease remover} soaked rag to soften any tape that remains and use a soft plastic scraper to remove.Depending on the condition of the bumpers you might find it easier to repair any niks & chips with a fine body filler {sand with 180 then 320}then sand the entire bumper with a scouring pad {similar to your green one in the kitchen}grey is fairly course {available from your local paint supplies shop}then apply a good quality plastic primer to the areas that have not been painted allow to dry and prime the entire bumpers with 3-4 coats sand the bumpers so they are smooth {you will now have bumpers without any texture}if you rub through keep going and apply one coat to those areas before your final sand and now paint the entire bumpers.If your model has the big thick chrome you will need to get them from ford.I think the chrome on the side body moulds are part of the mould{mental block} if so you will need to buy all new moulds use the same painting process as the bars for the moulds if you use the old ones {if no chips or damage or new moulds sand with scouring pad plastic prime then paint}.The other option is to peel the old chrome off the side moulds and paint the inserts including the bar moulds a different colour {ie black to match the window surrounds etc} As for the escort a silver base will allways give the brightest finish but wild violet is fairly transparrent so the more coats you put down the darker it will get.For the stripe you are best off doing your base coat {silver then the purple}then allow that to dry do the stripes using minimal coats one if possible so you dont get a huge paint edge then clear over the whole car.Use enough clear so you can sand the edges flat and buff so you wont feel an edge on the stripe Back to top nlbxr6 Technical Contributor Age:36 Posts: 387 Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Location: brisbane QLD, Australia View User Gallery (17) Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:31 am    Post subject: Re: . XR_Matt wrote: nlbxr6 wrote: XR_Matt wrote: Hey mate, i'm going to have a go at re-spraying my ute in the shed, two tone it with some graphics. I'm thinking on doing all the base coats and getting a spray paint shop to apply the clear coat. How hard is it to apply clear coat in a shed? It's a total colour change, so whats the best way of doing door jams. I like your dash panels that you re-sprayed, how do you go about doing it? Cheers for any info you can give me. This is a link to my dash post http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32873 If you are confident doing the base coat yourself why not have a go at the clear if you are doing it in acrylic its no harder than the base coat if 2K its a bit trickier but practice on the door jambs etc as I said to one of my apprentice I had doing a job for me the other day whats the worst that could happen You might get a run {which can be rubbed and buffed or touched up later Good luck So doing a acrylic base with a clear coat would be the way to go? Acrylic is user friendly if you havnt painted before but 2K gives a much better shine and doesnt need to be buffed.If you dont feel confident in using 2K on the outside do the engine bay and door jambs with 2K clear just allow the base coat a week for all the solvents to evaperate before applying clear this will give a good shine without polishing {if you use a good hi solid {hs}clear it is also a lot more durable} Back to top Display posts from previous: All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First             Forum Index -> Exterior Modifications Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next Page 3 of 8   (c)2002-2008 Matti Jones and Brad Evans [47 queries :: 0.10058 seconds ]