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BA to BF Fairlane Interior Conversion Project
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data_mine
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough, never paid much attention to antennae on cars.
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, neither have I, which is why I've been caught out. Welcome to page 5 of 4.


Luke
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some part numbers of interest:

18C847 A - AMPLIFIER ASSY - REAR WINDOW AERIAL, 4 DOOR SED
18C847 B - AMPLIFIER ASSY - REAR WINDOW AERIAL, 4 DOOR WAGON
18C847 C - AMPLIFIER ASSY - REAR WINDOW AERIAL, UTILITY

LWB and Territory
18828 A - AERIAL ASSY - ROOF MOUNTED, BLACK, WITH MOBILE PHONE


Lukeyson
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, time to load up on some more Antenna info. A Wagon module may get me out of trouble, but the more I look into this, the more it appears that I can't escape the need to install a Fairlane Antenna.


Firstly, all the descriptions I could find on the Antennas on all models.



Territory Antenna Module Description.gif
 Description:
Territory
 Filesize:  5.74 KB
 Viewed:  700 Time(s)

Territory Antenna Module Description.gif



Fairlane Antenna Module Description.gif
 Description:
Fairlane
 Filesize:  6.65 KB
 Viewed:  700 Time(s)

Fairlane Antenna Module Description.gif



Falcon Antenna Module Descriptions.gif
 Description:
Falcon
 Filesize:  18.93 KB
 Viewed:  13 Time(s)

Falcon Antenna Module Descriptions.gif


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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Territory Antenna Diagrams


Territory Antenna Amp #2.gif
 Description:
Territory Roof Antenna (No GSM)
 Filesize:  4.4 KB
 Viewed:  699 Time(s)

Territory Antenna Amp #2.gif



Territory Antenna Amp #1.gif
 Description:
Underside of Antenna
 Filesize:  5.83 KB
 Viewed:  699 Time(s)

Territory Antenna Amp #1.gif


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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fairlane and Falcon Antenna Images


Ute Antenna Amp.gif
 Description:
Ute Module. FM on heated demist. AM on strip across the top and side quarter windows.
 Filesize:  5.89 KB
 Viewed:  698 Time(s)

Ute Antenna Amp.gif



Wagon Antenna Amp.gif
 Description:
Wagon Amp. Separate Demist. FM on inside left rear window, AM on outside left rear window.
 Filesize:  5.72 KB
 Viewed:  698 Time(s)

Wagon Antenna Amp.gif



Sedan Antenna Amp.gif
 Description:
Sedan AMP Module. FM on Demist heater with Inductor Filters. AM on strip across top.
 Filesize:  7.27 KB
 Viewed:  698 Time(s)

Sedan Antenna Amp.gif



Fairlane Antenna.gif
 Description:
Fairlane - AM, FM and GSM
 Filesize:  6.19 KB
 Viewed:  698 Time(s)

Fairlane Antenna.gif


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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lunch on Sunday.

I've had to give up on feeding the tweeter lines on eitehr side, and the roof loom feed on the drivers side, up the side of the dash. Instead I've chopped and soldered in some extension lines and am running those lines up the outer edge of the dash in that gap between it and the door seal rubber. Works well.

No solution to the Antenna yet. I think I'll get both a Wagon module and a Fairlane Antenna. Wagon module has the same coax and power feed connectors, but doesn't run the Demist and FM through the same line, so doesn't have the filters. However, my car already has a filter on the GND side, I just have to figure out if I can put the power-feed side filter in manually. This damn SWB antenna modules is a mongrel to try and crack open....

And Fairlane box needs a hole in the roof. So that's a deterrent. May be the best option in the long run though.

In the interim I'll make up a little bridging loom for the power and demist feeds, and strip the SWB antenna line out of my old loom and put it in.


Luke
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data_mine
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mind boggles as to why Ford decided to do the same thing differently four times over (I can understand the small glass area of the ute).
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lukeyson wrote:
I(5) LWB Loom Length and Rear Numberplate Lights. Because I'm changing looms to support the side impact sensors and extra power on the passengers seat, the extra length is a mild concern - but I expect I can take that up in the parcel shelf. Better to be too long than too short! And the Fairlane has the number plate in the rear bumper, not on the bootlid, so hopefully the plug to the bootlid harness is still populated on the LWB Loom.
Lukeyson


There are 2 x spots where there is extra length.

(1) Right at the front of the wheelarch - where the loom lifts from the floor and goes up to the parcel shelf. And
(2) Right at the back of the wheelarch, where the sub amp, boot flap opener and chassis GND is located.

Also, I can confirm that the Bootlid connector (C-52) does NOT contain the brakelight and parklight lines (for number plate). Nor does it have a bulb-holder for the parcel-shelf stop light. Fairlanes instead have a high-mount stoplight that is powered by the Roof Loom from the A-Pillar lines.

I guess I'll be running with no taillights or bootlid brake lights for the next little while. I'll put the rest back together and do that last.


Luke
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost there. I had a 'moment' where none of the brakelights would work. I reseated all the main connectors and they came good.

I've cleared all the DTC's. The only one that I get now when doing a On Demand DTC check (as opposed to a self-triggered Continuous DTC) is the clutch pedal switch. Not sure why yet.

I've enabled the Park Aid Module in the ICC, and now when I hit reverse it cuts out the music to the rear speakers only, and plays the beep noise.

I made a bodgey bridging loom up for the Antenna, so it gets power and passes the main diag checkk. It knows there's no antenna cable connected though. I'll cut that out of the old loom and use that for awhile till I figure out a permanent solution. (Yet to do that. I forgot actually, now have to pull some trim off again. Doh!)

All seats and mirrors are in (drivers seat is not bolted down yet) and working. Memory functions are working. Windows and Drivers Courtesy Light are all working. Passenger seat is now powered an working. 7yo has given her approval - since it can now lift her up high enough to just see over the Dash.

I have not swapped out the Restraint Module to enable the Side Airbags. Of all damn things I've misplaced the Side Impact mounting bolts. And I have found myself running so overtime on tasks that I figured it be best to wait for another day.

But I have made some quick rewiring to the console and the rear footwell lamps.

(1) I have reterminated the main loom plug (newly installed) that is supposed to power the footwell lights, and have connected my footwell to that.
(2) The lines I ran to the footwell up through the console have been cut close to the trinket tray, and were reterminated, and now connect to the line that was for the 'Cigarette Lighter' illumination. I plan to put a Courtesy Light -IN- the console, that only comes on when it is opened. I'll do a separate thread for that I think.
(3) But what of the Trinket Tray light you ask? Well, I now have that connected to my free Couresy line. So now that damn thing isn't on all the time when I drive, but I can turn it on with the interior lights. Of Note, I drilled a hole in the back of the Tissue Box holder, put a keyway in with a stanly knofe, and now the Trinket Tray light is properly mounted.

I have yet to re-splice the Trigger for the Reverse Camera, and the line for the Electronic Brake Booster - these are all at the Drivers rear tail-lamp.

And finally, I have some 'spade' pins to insert into the connector for the Bootlid brakelight and number plate lights. I'll wire those into the Pass tail-light. I might also put in another parcel-shelf stoplight bulb holder too while I'm there. SHould be easy enough.


Much more work than I thought. Not sure now whether I saved myself time or made it worse by not doing the dash-out for the side lines.


Getting close now. At least if I bolt down the drivers seat it's driveable - which is a relief.



Lukeyson
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data_mine
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to hear.

You been taking pics, or like me, start out with intention too, then promptly forget the camera even exists?
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Nicko
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when you have the interior out you may as well remove the dash. ALl you would have had to do is remove the icc and about 8 bolts!
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I know. And the steering column. If only.

I have a lot of custom stuff under there though - Bluetooth, Video Converter, Audio Amp, Electronic Brake Booster, Courtesy light stuff. Could have posed a lot of extra probs.

And yes, I have been taking pics.


Luke
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gli
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alot of nice extras going into this xr

when will i bring mine over?
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aumatt
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im thinking of importing luke to melbourne to do mine icon_smile.gif
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need another Luke myself. That just took 4 days and I thought it would only take 2. It was just an insane number of fiddly little problems and bits that had to be done.

My bodged up antenna amp solution is done using the SWB box. The old antenna wire is now in and the radio works again.

I have wired the bootlid stop and number plate lights to the rear LH tail light. I was even able to run the same coloured wires. I had some tongues the right size to insert into the empty slots in the socket at the parcel shelf. At the taillight I was able to pull the spades out of the plug, chop them off, solder up two wires onto each of 2 new spades and put them back it. Much better than OEM to me - considering all spades or tongues on these things are just crimped with no solder. I couldn't be bothered wiring up the parcel shelf brake light. Lazy me.

I only just ran the car down the road this afternoon. Nothing major to report.

I still have one wire to do in the boot for the Electronic Brake Booster. Next is pulling the rear bar off to do the Reverse Sensors - after they have been painted. Nicko was looking into some sort of 'cover kit' since we're all not sure how many times you can paint the suckers.

How about it Nicko, got any answers yet? I'm now hot on your heels......


Lukeyson
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data_mine
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a maximum paint thickness specified for them. As for how many coats that translates too, I dunno.
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Nicko
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lukeyson,
unfortunately the cover kit is just the bezels. Once a sensor is painted you can replace the sensor cap from the looks of it. The paint cannot exceed 120um on the sensor. Not sure how much one coat of paint is
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooh. We might have some gremlins.

(1) The clutch switch does appear to inoperative. When I depress it I get a much larger overrev than before when on cruise control.

(2) Memory Mirror Dip is not working. Now I HAVE to do something about that.

My first theory is that the Fairlanes were never intended to have a Manual Tranny. So my guess is that:

(1) There is no line in the loom from the pedal box to whatever other loom junction is required to carry the clutch trigger switch line and

(2) The Reverse trigger may be sourced from the connector to the auto PRND selector for the Seat/Mirror memory, and not from the usual gearbox source. Seems logical really - the PRND plug is on the same loom after all.....


Time to investigate these theories. I might also start posting some pics into earlier posts.


Lukeyson
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Lukeyson
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicko wrote:
Lukeyson,
unfortunately the cover kit is just the bezels. Once a sensor is painted you can replace the sensor cap from the looks of it. The paint cannot exceed 120um on the sensor. Not sure how much one coat of paint is


So you've taken off a coloured sensor cap have you? I'd love to see pics if you have, and how you did it.


Lukeyson
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