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BenJ
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Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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 Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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Well all, it has been an interesting year.
Just thought I would catch you all up on a few bits and pieces I have been messing with.
I have been wanting to do something different with the interior to set it apart from all the other conversions. Everyone seems to be crazy about woodgrain pieces, but I wasn't looking for that feel for my car.
The first phase was to paint the door handles.
I acquired a spare set of handles and sanded them smooth. I primed them with plastic primer and then over a period of a week painted five coats of Satin Black.
I am really happy with the outcome as they look like they were meant to be that way. They almost look like they are made from metal.
The second phase involves more Satin Black and some sad looking fake woodgrain.
The other major body mod was to give the car a random dented effect. This was done while dodging orange size hailstones racing down to the carpark during the wild storms here in Sydney the other week.
Well, I guess it just adds more character to a less than perfect car.
Repairs recently include, a dead relay on one of the thermo fans, replaced the air con idler pulley as the bearing was shagged, and while using the shift kit it chirped into second and ripped the left engine mount in two.
All good fun really.
Well, hope you all have a great Chrissy and New Years. Will update as more things occurr.
Regards
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hey all
Hope you had a good new year and quick recovery 
Just a quick update.
The EB reached a major milestone last weekend.
Still going strong.
I plan to run her up on the dyno early in the year, just to see what an old engine can do.
Catch you all later.
BenJ |
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edfairmont4.0
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:22
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Location: Brisbane QLD, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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| your motor will keep going and going..... the motor in my white ed is near half a mil....still pulls well and sounds healthy.....just valve stem seals are nackered... lol |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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Ok Then.
If there is one thing boxcar owners love to hate, it's the steering wheel. Specifically if you have Cruise Control. The primary reason for not fitting a sports steering wheel is that owners want to keep the Cruise buttons.
Lets face it. The factory wheel is just ugly.
So I hunted around for a solution and came accross a guide on Ford Mods Link Here to use custom mounted momentary switches. I acquired the parts and looked around for a suitable steering wheel within my limited budget and found this.
It was marked down to $70 at parklea markets. It is leather wrapped and the four spoke design appealed to me. The red leather parts also would match my car nicely. I also picked up a boss kit for $70.
I got home and promptly created a 3D model of the wheel in Sketchup so I could design a bracket to mount the cruise switches on.
The Front.
The Back with Cruise Bracket.
I looked around the garage and found an old computer side panel which I used to draw the pattern for the bracket.
I then cut it out using a Dremel rotary tool and sanded the edges.
Here is the raw bracket on the back of the wheel.
The next couple of shots show the finished bracket with the switches mounted on the boss and then the boss and wheel and finally a close up of the switch setup.
I then mounted it all in the car and I am really happy with the way it looks.
The cruise switches work great and are positioned so my index fingers fall on them with a small reach.
There is now no excuse for you boxcars ownwers to put up with the factory cruise steering wheel.
I have also acquired some EF mirrors so look out for another update soon.
Happy Australia Day
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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Well, got busy today.
Seeing as I had all the bits I needed for the EF Mirror mod, I got stuck into it.
The finished product.
I am really happy with the way this turned out. I am keeping the mirrors black as I think this works well with the look I am trying to achieve with the EB.
While this isn't too difficult I thought I would do a short tutorial.
This is to use EF Door Trims with EF Mirrors in an EB. EA and ED should be the same.
Parts Needed.
EF/EL Mirrors and screws
EF/EL External Weather Strips for Front Doors.
EF Door Wiring Looms, left and right - at least the plugs for the mirrors and the mirror switch.
EB Mirror Switch assembly plugs and loom.
EB Left hand mirror plug and short length of wires.
Optional Parts Needed.
EF Front Door Window Rubbers - the ones the window goes up and down etc.
EF Rear Wagon External Weather Strips.
Tools Needed.
Philips Screwdriver.
10mm Socket and Ratchet - if using EF Window Rubber.
Drill and assorted Drill Bits.
Round File.
Soldering Iron.
Heat Shrink.
Electrical Tape.
Common Sense.
1. Remove Door Trim, Speaker and Backing.
2. Remove EB Mirror.
3. Remove EB External Weather Strip.
4. Optional - Remove Front Window.
5. Optional - Remove EB Window Rubber
6. Optional - Install EF Window Rubber
7. Optional - Install Front Window
8. Use EF Mirror and mark and drill and file holes for mounting lugs.
9. When happy with fit of Mirror Install EF External Weather Strip.
10. Install EF Mirror for final time, first plugging in loom and tucking it in the door cavity.
11. Check Mirror Operation.
12. Install Door Trim, Speaker and Backing.
13. Enjoy and brag to your mates.
Now for the wiring part, check out the following pictures.
Drivers Door Loom
Passenger Door Loom
By acquiring extra plugs and wires, I was able to create new looms to plug into the various parts, meaning I didn't have to butcher my looms.
Good Luck and PM me if you need help.
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
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Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, well it never rains, it pours.
Seeing as I was home today, waiting for NRMA insurance assessors to look at our dead white goods (some fool ran into a power pole a few weeks back), I was looking for things to do. I was poking around in my garage and found my EL external door handles.
So I grabbed some sand paper and paint and got to work.
Dissasembled and 1st coat of paint.
And some before and after shots.
And being EL handles, no locks on the passenger side
This shot I just like
It is amazing how something so simple as this mod changes the appearance of the car, especially when combined with the mirrors.
Regards
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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As I said there are a few bits and pieces that need tidying up.
One of the glaring parts was the side trim that runs along the edge of the windscreen. If you have a good look at them they are metal covered with a plastic wrap. Over time the plastic goes brittle and ends up doing this.
Not pretty really.
So was talking to some of the fellas last night at Liverpool and we were comparing cars etc. There was an EF there and I noticed that the windscreen trim pieces were the same. I was going to strip and paint some I had here but that it a lot of work. So this morining I went to Pick and Payless and for $20 picked up a pair from an EL. 10 mins work later and this is what you get.
Some more before and after photos
Once you notice how bad they are you can't help but see it all the time, so my apologies in advance if you hadn't noticed yours before
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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Someone asked me a question about how to remove the strips, so I took a couple of photos to help answer. OK - Here we go.
Pull the rubber back from the strip. Start at the bottom edge of the windscreen where it hangs past the door, and just pull gently.
Keep remove the rubber until it is not covering the strip at all.
Then undo the philips screws under the lip the rubber sits over.
Lastly, remove the little plug indicated by the arrow. Be gentle as you don't want to break it. Then undo the long philips head screw underneath. This will allow enough movement to get the end of the strip out easily.
Installation is just the reverse order. Points to note are that when sliding the rubber back on, don't stretch it as you go.
Boxcar owners should note that the later ED and EF/EL models have a different rubber that fills the gap between the shut door and the windscreen strip. It will be beneficial to install it to reduce wind noise at speed.
Good luck to those who want to fix there own strips.
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:56 pm Post subject: |
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Hello Again All
Just a quick update re the later model rubbers and exterior window trims etc.
In the EL mirror conversion, I stated that you need the rear external black door trims from an EF/EL wagon to match the profile of the front ones you put on with the mirrors. An interesting point to note is that my ED Ghia has the same trim profile as the later EF/EL.
As the ED Ghia is my wifes and currently unregistered (and she will never know unless she reads this) I attacked it with a screwdriver while she was out. What I found out was that not only do you need the strip accross the top of the rear door, the black quarter surround is also different and you need that part as well. Not only that but the trim uses a small bolt and nut to attach the rear to the car and the door I have off an EA does not have the hole there for it, so I had to drill it out.
I also swapped out the rubber that starts alongside the windscreen and goes along the edge of the roofline to the C pillar. This rubber is much better designed than the earlier ones and on a cruise on the weekend proved to reduce the road/wind noise quite noticably. Well worthwhile doing and really easy if you can acquire them from either an ED, EF or EL.
My last bit of news is that my next mod is a major one. Here is a photo of what I have bought.
It is an EL engine and comes with all accessories including the ECU and all the parts needed to complete the conversion.
I will update as this progresses - hopefully soooooooon
BenJ |
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BenJ
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Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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OK, a small update.
The EL Engine has now been removed from the car and is safely at PaulMacs' place. The engine now removed, looks even better than it did in the car. It is really clean, with no signs of leaks or missuse anywhere.
The install date is the 24th Feb. Wooohoooo
One week and counting.
In preparation of the conversion, I have been busy modding the inlet manifold loom. The reason you can't use the EL loom with the EB is because the plugs on the EL BBM loom are square and the EB uses round plugs.
Kudos to Troyman for his guide as much of the knowledge comes from there.
I had a spare loom off the log manifold from my EB parts car. To alter the EB loom to fit the BBM manifold, the TPS and ICS plugs need to be relocated to reach the throttle body on the BBM.
From the wreckers I sourced EL TPS and ICS Loom plugs as they can be different to the EB. I found that the TPS plugs are the same but the ICS plugs are different. Seeing as I needed to cut the plugs off to lengthen the loom I used the newer plugs. It is possible to use the existing EB plugs, so long as you mount the EB TPS and ICS on the BBM throttle body.
Below is the loom before and after I adjusted it. It is now ready to attach to the EL motor.
Before
After
I intend to take a few photos of the conversion and will post a quick guide and any difficulties encountered.
Regards
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:58 pm Post subject: |
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Small Update
Today I received a Smartlock Bypass Module. I have hooked it up and started the car using a smartlock EBII ECU and an EL Tickford Gas ECU.
I have also added extra pins to the ECU plug for Smartlock, the BBM Solenoid, knock sensor and a wire for the EL Gas ECU to tell it to run on petrol. Using some loom from an EB Bootlid, I ran wires from near the ECU through the Firewall via the hole the vacuum pipes run through to behind the washer bottle.
I have also mounted the BBM Solenoid in its correct location. Unfortunately this is where the the Cruise Contol vacuum pump is located in the EB, so I relocated it down the inner guard by wedging it under the brake lines. This will do for now until I can drill some holes and bolt it in properely. And, yes the cruise still works 
Everything seems to be falling into place for Sunday, so it should go relatively smoothly.
I just have to wire up the plugs for the BBM solenoid and the knock sensor.
Next update should hopefully be good news re the successful completion.
Regards
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:58 pm Post subject: |
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Here is a couple of photos from a recent cruise to Newcastle.
The EB doesn't look to bad in these.
And here are the same two shots with a bit of photoshop surgery.
I quite like the red over grey.
What do you all think?
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:00 am Post subject: |
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Well, what can I say. PaulMac, Luke (my son) and I had quite a time.
What started out as, "4 hours, no worries" turned into a very long haul.
OK, so Sunday started at 7.30am with Luke and I jumping in the car and heading from Sydney up to the Central Coast to go to PaulMac's place. We rolled up to PaulMac's at about 9am and by 9.30 we were already taking the car apart.
Now PaulMac has put an EL engine in his car, but used the Log manifold, so we at least had some experience here. However we progressed slowly and methodically and around 3 hours later, had the EB engine and auto mostly out of the car.
We had our problems like we all do. The auto cooler lines didn't want to come off and the engine crane wouldn't fit under the front of the car as it was too low. But we perservered and got it out.
Check out all the gunk on the back of the Auto. PaulMac wondered how it stayed cool.
During this time I pulled the EL BBM loom off the engine and layed out the loom I had made. I found I had to extend the plug for the air temp sensor as this hadn't been mentioned in any of the threads I had read. Luckily I had taken everything with me. Here I am with the EL BBM Loom removed.
The engine bay was almost as dirty as the auto was, so PaulMac fired up the pressure washer and gave it a good blast. Nice and clean now.
Then we moved the trailer with the EL Engine. I am balancing it. Wouldn't want it to roll over and break something now would we.
Now the fun begins. It is supposedly a simple task. Just slide the auto up to the back of the engine, give it a bit of a jiggle, and it should just drop into place.  Like bloody hell it does. We fought with the damn thing for two hours. I am sure we tried more positions and angles than most prostitutes would know. Then all of a sudden it worked. About bloody time.
Next step was making sure the EL Engine was prepped to go in. Close examination showed up a few differences between the EB and EL engines. We realised the heater hoses wouldn't fit. The EL engine mounts were different so had to be swapped. And the fuel lines are different too.
PaulMac went off to Bursons and picked up some heater hoses. While he was out I took care of a few things, like changing the alternator plug, bolting in the EL ECU and plugging in my custom loom for the BBM and Knock Sensor, and started playing with the cruise cable and throttle cable. Oh, and where is the EL throttle cable Paul? We realised it was still on the car the engine came out of DOH. PaulMac's lovely wife went for a drive to get it. Thankyou heaps.
So PaulMac returned and we hoisted the EL Engine up and slid it half into place. By this time it was dark, and we had to work by light. PaulMac then worked out how we could marry the fuel lines up.
The following is his how too.
"There are two simple ways to attach the fuel lines and maintain the EL top and bottom connections.
1] My preferred option is to cut the EL metal fuel lines at the chassis rail of the donor car, leaving the flexible line intact with a 'tail' of 50-60mm of metal fuel line. Flare them very slightly with a flaring tool if you have one. Re-fit to engine or manifold while out of the car, marking the regulator feed line 'tail' clearly.
Install the engine and from under the car place hose clamps over the [EA-ED] flexible lines then cut them to a length suiting the metal 'tail', insert the tail into the appropriate chassis feed or return line, clamp tight.
NOTE: Feed line goes to the regulator, return line from the rail.
2]The second option is used when the EL flexible lines have been cut before the bottom join or the 'tails' are of inadequate length. Cut two lengths of metal fuel line [flare slightly if possible] and insert and clamp them into the EL flexible lines, forming the 'tails'.
Proceed as above."
The second option was forced upon us because one EL fuel line had not been cut away as required, [due to a misunderstanding by the engine supplier, an otherwise very helpful and professional mechanic] and we had to cannibilise the other for the metal line needed."
Cheers,
Thanks PaulMac - I guess one could always use the EB fuel rail.
Once that was done the engine was lowered down but wouldn't get that last 10mm for the engine mounts to drop over the K frame. So, it was out with the right had mount and down it went. But do you think it was easy to bolt the mount back on? Ohhhh Nooooooo. Stupid bloody thing.
This pic shows the engine almost in place, and gives you a look at our high tech lighting. This was around 1am.
Finally we held our mouths the right way and got it sorted. We went around connecting all the bits we had disconnected. PaulMac put the EL radiator in and found that it was slightly different to the EB one. The rubber spacers on the bottom held it up too high, so he improvised that. And then the hose that goes from the bottom of the header tank into the right side of the radiator wouldn't fit as the EL radiator has a right angle bend in it. More solutions were found. The auto cooler lines didn't want to go back together again.
Finally at around 4.30am it was all back together and it was time to start it for the first time.
I turned the key and............... ZIP!!!! It just cranked over.
The fuel pump sounded odd tho, so we threw a few ideas around, and I suggested that the fuel lines could be back to front. A bit of research on line and comparing PaulMac's car etc proved this theory to be sound. So they were swapped over and we were ready to try again.
The key turned, the engine fired..........and ran..........clang clang clang clang....... I turned it off in a hurry.
So considering it was now 5am and we had been working straight through from 9.30am the previous day, we packed up a little bit, called it a morning and went inside for a well earned NAP. |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
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Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Day Two - 3 hours or so later.
We took our sorry worn out selves back out to the car (where did I put that match and petrol again?) took it down off the stands and ramps, and with slightly clearer heads tried it again. More clanging.
Much conversation ensued as to the possible cause, mostly revolving around the auto being faarked. In the end we put the front back up on stands, and removed the dust sheild of the auto to check the torque convertor bolts. The all looked fine so I asked PaulMac to start the car while I was under it (Don't do this at home boys and girls). Clang Clang Clang. I immediately could see the problem. PaulMac joined me under the car and agreed with my diagnosis.
It would seem that while we were frigging around trying to put the auto on the engine, we had shoved a jack under the sump at the back of the engine to lift it...........and crushed the sump so now the cranshaft was hitting it.
NOT HAPPY JAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Much more discussion ensued and the only solution was the obvious one.
Lift the engine, drop the sump and bash out the dent.
Sounds simple enough doesn't it. Let me tell you nothing is simple - ever!!
PaulMac ducked off to get a sump gasket, while I removing the gazzillion bolts that hold the sump on. We hooked up the front of the engine to the engine crane to lift it. But it wouldn't lift high enough to remove the sump.
So I dropped the K Frame to give us more room. The Bugger still wouldn't come out. Does anyone know if the EB and EL sumps are the same? The K Frames are quite different, so they could be different.
After much swearing and struggling it was suggested, not sure by who now, to insert a long object on an angle from the side into the sump and then bash the holy hell out of it in an effort to puch the dent out.
To cut a long long day short, this actually worked. You will not believe how relieved I was when we started it and there was no wrong noises.
So we buttoned it all back together, filled it with oil and started it again. Now I gave it a rev. Up to 2 grand and splutter. FAAAAAAARK!!!!!!!
A quick think later, I remembered the EB Map sensor got pretty squashed by the BBM while putting the engine in. So I grabbed the EL map sensor, swapped them over and all was rosy. It revved strong and hard. The BBM was doing its thing and all was good with the world.
Except for the auto fluid pouring out on the driveway. This proved to be a loose auto cooler line. I hate those things. Once tightened up all good.
Of course by now it was after 5pm Monday.
Here are a couple of shots with the engine in and finished.
I took the EB for a test drive and it went great. The only real worry was that the temp guage in the dash didn't work, and I think we killed my Davies Craig thermo switch at some point. I had to run the fans from my manual overide switch.
We packed up, jumped in the car and headed back to Sydney. The car went well and cruised easily home.
I hope you all enjoyed my little story. I will be posting up a list of parts that I think others will need if they are considering a similar conversion. And I will provide some more detail of other changes/mods to make this happen.
PaulMac and family, the biggest thank you for the time, effort and hospitality. You are a true friend and Ford Modder.
BenJ |
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BenJ
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Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:02 am Post subject: |
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OK - List of parts needed to install an EL Engine into a EB Non Smarlock Car.
EL Engine - including air filter box and intake piping/brackets etc - everything
El Engine Accessories - Pwr Steering box, alternator, A/C Compressor - All of it
EL ECU
Smartlock Bypass Module
BBM Solenoid and associated Vacuum Hoses
Knock Sensor plug and wiring
EL Throttle Cable and pedal - The pedal ratio is different to the EB
EB Manifold Loom modified for use on the BBM
EL Map Sensor
EF/EL Heater Hoses - both as they are different to the EB
EB Engine Mounts - use yours - one of mine was broken lol
EF/EL Radiator - the bottom hose is smaller than the EB
EL Lower Radiator Hose
EF/EL Thermo Fans - Davies Craig Thermo Switch
Exhaust Manifold Gasket - Only needed because I used my extractors
Exhaust Flange Gastket - get the correct size
Engine Oil and Filter - 15w 40
Transmission Fluid - At least 5 litres
Power Steering Fluid
A good selection and quantity of hose clamps
Radiator Coolant
Oh and a sump gasket for when you squash the sump - not recommended
I think thats about it. Anything I forgot PaulMac?
BenJ |
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BenJ
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Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:02 am Post subject: |
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Important Post by Paulmac
Ben,
In case any one missed it above,
the EL fuel lines complete, preferably cut 50-60mm into the metal [chassis] lines.
The coolant hose from the reservoir to the radiator is different although the EB-ED hose can be cut to fit the 90deg spout.
As to selectively re-forming [bashing out] the sump, there was NO alternative available for at least 8 hours [when a mate could bring a MIG] and Ben had to be back in Sydney long before that.
Barnacus, for once the mozzies behaved themselves but I had donated enough blood for all of us by gouging my right leg open on an EB block, so off to get that patched up as it refused to stop filling my boot up.
This interfered with me trying to get the accelerator I had forgotten and after a couple of quick phone calls my wife took up the task and I headed for treatment.
We all appreciate the efforts of Darrell from Minmi to have it ready for Kath and the help and courtesy he showed her. We'll have to repay his goodwill in some way, 'what goes around, comes around' surely applies here.
Cheers,
Paul |
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BenJ
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Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:03 am Post subject: |
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Hey All
Along with Paulmac, I want to send out a big thankyou to Darrell for all his help and assistance, especially in removing the throttle cable on Sunday.
We hold only ourselves responsible for all the issues that arose during the installation of the EL engine in my EB.
I have now driven the car around 450kms since I left PaulMac's house, and I have to say I am very happy with the performance and economy to date. While this could be a big job for any first time do-it-yourselfer, I would recommend that with the proper research, preparation and equipment, this sort of upgrade is worthwhile. For me personally, this was a much cheaper and complete option than repairing my old engine.
Regards
BenJ |
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BenJ
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:03 am Post subject: |
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Well it didn't take long. The first mod to the EL engine has happened.
Advice from mates indicated that there is some worthwhile gains to be made by removing the restrictive exit from the EL airbox. I don't know what Ford was thinking but it appears there is quite a backwards step in airflow from the EF to the EL.
This is the EL exit pipe
And this is the EF exit pipe - quite a bit larger
And on the inside, there is quite a substantial difference in the design.
EL - internal
EF - internal
The trumpet design according to flow tests by Autospeed magazine flows around 18% better.
So to get the air from the new larger opening I went to Supercheap and purchased a 300mm length of 76mm ID Aluminium Pipe. I cut the end off at around 30 degrees and installed it.
Original EL Intake
Modified EL/EF Intake
Looks pretty darn good I think. One other mod I had to make was to add two spacers under the plastic cross piece over the BBM manifold to lift it all up around 6mm. This is because the bottom of the new pipe was just touching the top of one of the suspension bolts. I have also cut some extra holes on the passenger side of the lower airbox to improve airflow into the box.
Now the big question. Does it make a difference?
Yes. Especially at part throttle in the mid range. There is a really noticeable improvement. In standard form, the car sometimes felt like it had a flat spot or hesitant under normal/light accelleration. If I gave it some more throttle, zoom, away it went. With this feeling has gone away. And with the stronger mid range now traction in the wet is an issue. I must get my LSD fixed
Cheers to all
BenJ |
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BenJ
Cruise Moderator
Posts: 1688
Joined: 20 May 2005
Location: Seven Hills, Sydney NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (11)
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:05 am Post subject: |
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I have been playing around with the steering wheel horn badge. I removed the Autotechnic sticker and tried to find something Ford oriented.
I first tried a small Ghia Emblem
I drove around with this for a couple of weeks, but in the end decided it stood out too much.
So I now have this EL Fairmont Badge.
I like this more, as it is more subtle and the colours blend in well.
Cheers to all
BenJ |
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