Home |  Forums |  Search |  My Profile |  Chat  Photo Gallery |  Events Calendar |  Technical Documents  No messages |  New Posts |  Watched Topics |  Register   Car Detailing tips Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 23, 24, 25  Next          Forum Index -> Exterior Modifications Latest ratings Highest-ranked posts Highest-ranked topics Highest-ranked posters   Rik_Biel Fordmods Parts Gopher Age:37 Posts: 87 Joined: 12 Nov 2004 Location: Perth WA, Australia View User Gallery (5) Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 2:13 pm    Post subject: Thanks for all the great tips and info. I'm hearing from you and a lot of other detailing sites (Better Car Care, Eclipse Detailing Supplies, Detail City, ) lots of products and brands that I just don't see in the shops. Where do we get this quality stuff? Back to top XRFan101 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:24 Posts: 3610 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Victor Harbor SA, Australia View User Gallery (22) Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: tips Aurora 98 wrote: XRFan101 wrote: Hey Matt got a question for ya, i have my boss interested in some products of yours.. I just need a catalouge or something, but anyway.. He has an old school MGB which has alot of swirl marks on the hood. Now he asked me to ask you lol if you have anything that can get rid of the swirls but with out using a cutting agent as he doesnt want to weaken the paint. Also something that can do that plus bring out a bit more shine and lustre to the paint would be helpful aslo. So let me know if you have ideas how to fix that up. Cheers dude Great job btw. I will have to order some products of my own soon. Thanks Andrew My father has an MGB 71, it was a road car but now is a complete race car with 40 kg less weight, new paint, roll bars, new engine and is doing 1:20's at mallala Now to the questions Four star paint cleanser is a great product that will remove minor swirls, scratches, bug residue, tar, grease and other grime I use it on my car occasionally instead of polishing again It has no cutting power and will not remove any paint It won't remove many of the swirls but will really improve the shine I also recommend sonus sfx 3 paint enhancer glaze and clearkote vanilla or red moose I am waiting for new supplies of the clearkote but the paint cleanser is in stock and is an economical 1.89 litre size ($50) so you could possibly borrow some of that to use on your car The clearkote vanilla moose by machine or hand will permanently remove some scratches and even more swirls than the cleanser and provide depth and wetness to the paint I recommend applying all these products with an ultimate german applicator foam pad that I sell The reason is that it is double sided, a thick rectangular shape with one side for polishing, and the other for cleansing or applying Klasse all in one or sealant glaze protectants To get rid of 60% of swirls by hand, he needs a strong polish or a cutting compound but to remove all, he needs a rotary and very strong polish or possibly compound using some , so called swirl mark removers, in most cases only fills them, next time you wash the car, they come back again Unfortunately there is no other way to remove all the swirls I can send you my new catalogue by email Have not tried four star's swirl mark remover but that one is probably their version of Menzerna Final Polish II, a polish that you use after Menzerna Intensive polish (a mild cutting compound that acts like a polish so it doesn't cause more swirls and scratches) which old school compounds did and still do Check out the cleanser product at this site http://www.fourstarproducts.com Okay cool thanks for that mate, i will let my boss know about what you have told me. And could you please email your catalouge to me that would be great, email is XRFan_5@hotmail.com cheers dude My boss is also interested in buying some applicator pads etc and a decent swirl remover... once i get the catalogue i will work out with him which one would be the best to get. Thanks again Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:38 pm    Post subject: car care tips DJ - if that's all you are prepared to do, don't aim the high pressure water directly to the paint, apply it side on in vertical and horizontal angles from top to bottom Washing update In the last few days I have had discussions with possibly the most fanatical car detailer in the USA We talked about microfibre wash mitts, amount of times we clean the mitt, foam guns and much more He gave me some great tips and here they are For those who have followed my advice and are washing their cars with the two or three bucket method, quality shampoo, wash mitts and drying towels and have hand polished or had it machine buffed and want to keep it as free of marring and swirls as possible, here are those tips Use two wash mitts, start with one, cleaning it in the second bucket (water only) after shampooing the top half of doors, roof and one half of the bonnet Once you have completed one side, put that one aside and go again with the second, completely clean mitt For best lathering results, dunk the mitt into the shampoo bucket with the cuff fully open so it sucks in as much water as possible apply a 6 inch thin line of the shampoo and then put your hand in the cuff and glide it over each panel, again cleaning it after doing the top half of doors, second half of boot and rear bumper If you have one, get yourself a foam gun or one of those refillable containers of shampoo that attaches to the hose and works like a foam gun by dispersing shampoo all over the car If that is too much for you or you can't find one with quality shampoo in it, do this before after doing the pre wash rinse Fill the mitt up with the cuff open, apply a 6 inch line of product and have it horizontal to the car and spray your hose (medium pressure) at it from about two feet from the car and move the mitt and hose in closer if you need to Work from top to bottom and re dunk the mitt to cover the car with shampoo on the other side Remember - don't aim the hose directly at the paint Also after doing this, dunk the mitt and squeeze it to wash away any dirt/grime off and then re dunk and wash each panel It may sound like a long process but in actual fact it doesn't really take long and you are well onto your way to keeping your car's paint ultra slick, shiny and virtually free of swirls and marring This person spends two hours fourty minutes just washing and drying the car alone I am like an hour and a half max but I dry the jambs, engine bay, fuel filler, arches and more It's well worthwhile Those who still use chamois, how about getting an empty bucket and everytime you wring your chamois out while drying, wring it into the bucket When finished pour the water onto your lawn, trees, plants etc Easy hand polishing equipment best suited to the job Rectangular foam applicator pad (soft & rough sides) or any foam pad that is comfortable Any liquid polish Microfibre buffing cloths polishing by hand is simple with today's great products It's best to clay the paint to remove contaminants before polishing Apply the required amount of polish onto the applicator, usually three 2 cent piece sized drops Hold the rectangular pad and with a little bit of pressure, go over the car with quick, side to side motions from top to bottom When polish starts to dry up, increase speed and reduce pressure I use the rough side of the foam pad with all polishes Remove the excess with a dry, clean microfibre cloth and to make sure it's all gone, surface is clean ready for next step and to increase lustre and depth, spray clearkote quik shine or any quick detail spray (must be wax and sealant free) onto the panel and wipe with another buffing cloth Do each panel separately. It shouldn't take more than two to three minutes maximum to polish a panel Start with the finest grade paint product and move up the grit scale as necessary to remove contamination, marring, swirls and grime There are lots of polishes out there so choose wisely Some are wet look polishes with no VOC (volatile compounds), some cut more than others and some just enhance gloss and cleanse and there are many that can only be used with a rotary buffer using them by hand would only leave scratches or swirls If you get the results you wish, the next step is to move to an enhancing glaze These are what most people don't know about, don't bother to apply or their detailer does with inferior products A glaze provides even further depth, reflection, lustre , smoothness and wetness Some fill swirls and scratches but those that I and others use, remove any marks permanently and what's written above. To finish off, apply a coat of polymer, super polymer or acrylic sealant or a wax or even sealant then wax If you find your plastics and vinyls going white, then the polish or sealant you are using is made is from old school technology ingredients Traditional polishes and sealants have lots of hydrocarbons in them and these ruin trim More tomorrow ultra german applicator pads.gif  Description:  Filesize:  16.65 KB  Viewed:  1541 Time(s) Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2005 8:20 pm    Post subject: Glass care Caring for your glass is easy and can really lift the look of your car my best advice is to clay the glass during washing or after with a fine or ultra fine grade clay bar using plenty of clay lube this returns the glass to a smooth finish If there are swirl marks or scratches on the glass, polish it by hand using a dedicated glass polish Those that I use are diamondite , autoglym, p21s polishing soap, autosmart, detailers pride and sonus The diamondite is a shaving cream type product and can be also used on other surfaces Detailers pride is a dedicated water spot removal and restorer that has a pleasant citrus fragrance The great thing about it is that you can use it by hand or machine There is nothing worse than waterspots on glass However for swirl marks, it comes time for swirl mark removers and even paint cutting compounds What I will be doing shortly on my car to get it ready for extreme horsepower show is to clay, machine buff the glass at 700 - 1200 rpm using a foam pad with Poorboys SSR 2.5, 2 and then Clearkote vanilla moose to remove them The poorboys can be used by hand For anyone to do a complete glass refinishing by hand, try this process and techniques Clay Polish using a glass polish using a foam applicator pad or a folded microfibre cloth to remove fogginess, enhance clarity and make glass almost invisible If there are still scratches available and you do not have access to poorboys or any paint polish or 1500-1000 grit compound, then get some autosol metal polish liquid or cream tube and apply with a lint free cloth to remove fine scratches If you can feel the scratches with your fingernail, it's worthwhile getting the glass replaced rather than having a layer of glass cut out To finish off I highly recommend clearkote vanilla moose, 3M imperial hand glaze or Farecla black top hand glaze to provide some wetness and mirror like effect to them Then for ultimate results and protection, seal the glass with a polymer, super polymer or acrylic sealant Any paint sealant will do or even PPG paints new aquapel glass treatment Poorboys wheel sealant is another option as well For those with tinted windows, plexus plastic polish will polish and protect the mylar tint and clearkote quik shine spray polish will keep the protectant layer topped up if used after each wash. Quik shine is easily applied with a microfibre buffing cloth. To prevent stone chips, pits and more and to prevent your glass from looking like a well use dart board, klasse acrylic sealant is best. Hope this helps PM, email or phone me at any time if you need help with any products you are using, have a query or are interested in attending a free car care clinic sometime in the future happy motoring Matt Gibb Back to top data_mine Technical Contributor Age:27 Posts: 4687 Joined: 24 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 9:41 am    Post subject: Love watching this thread, but now you mention glass, what's the best method for dealing with stone chips already present? I've got a very fine chip that's only visible when dirty. i.e. after a good wash it disappears until it gets dirty again. Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 8:45 pm    Post subject: Windscreens O brien , car glass or a similar company should be able to get rid of it with their wiz bang equipment that cuts a layer of glass out That's probably the only solution Make sure you seal the glass with something, even a wax it really does make a difference. Back to top Mechan1k Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:31 Posts: 1973 Joined: 08 Mar 2005 Location: East Kurrajong NSW, Australia View User Gallery (4) Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:30 am    Post subject: Another question about glass .... esecially after washing ... I try not to use the windows for a few hours afterwards ... do to water streaks ... is there another way of drying the rubber guides along the top of the door/window cavity????? Or just don't open/close windows at all until completely dry. Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:58 pm    Post subject: Mechan1k wrote: Another question about glass .... esecially after washing ... I try not to use the windows for a few hours afterwards ... do to water streaks ... is there another way of drying the rubber guides along the top of the door/window cavity????? Or just don't open/close windows at all until completely dry. The best thing to do after washing and drying the car (dry windows first) is to put the glass down by an inch and wipe the top edge of them and then put back up and wipe the glass again (you will get some water when it goes back up) You could also put the windows all the way down, dry the guides with a clean towel (microfibre preferred as it absorbs it far better), then lift up half way, wipe the top edge of glass then put all way up and do a final wipe If you do not drop the glass by an inch, the water that doesn't get dried, cause a watermark or a streak that can be hard to remove plus the guides may leave some residue if they are over lubricated with either a rubber cleaner protectant or silicone spray Matt Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 8:30 pm    Post subject: Cleansing paint Are you over polishing your paint? Improper washing techniques cause swirl marks and marring and other marks are from dust, environmental contaminants and poor quality cloths The common thing to do for years has been to get the wet look polish out and remove it. As much as this is good, cleansing the paint and using very fine swirl mark removers and final finishing polishes is even better again When you polish the paint you enhance the shine as well as remove marring and this makes the paint more reflective. However you are removing clearcoat and that is what gives the finish it's depth and wetness I do not recommend the use of cutting compounds more than four times in a vehicle's lifetime. If a finish is oxidised and faded/discoloured then it may need this but once it is restored and enhanced with a polish and glaze, do your best to remove any swirls, scratches or marring with a paint cleanser and keep it garaged overnight and with a car cover at work. There are heaps of cleansers on the market but the best come from the USA and Europe A cleanser does not remove any paint and will remove bug stains, paint contamination, very minor swirl marks, some scratches and marring If this does not give you the desired result, then move up the scale to the finest wet look polish or glaze you can find Vanilla moose is great for this as it removes paint defects permanently , does not remove paint and enhances wetness and the depth of it The ultimate german applicator is the perfect pad for this also. I can't stand using those tiny, thin round foam applicator pads If you must use a polish, apply 2-3 drops onto the foam pad or surface and buff using very light pressure Instead of increasing the pressure to remove a stubborn mark, increase your hand speed. Even the finest products and applicators can scratch if you put lots of force (especially finger tips) onto the paint. My car is far from perfect. It has great wetness and depth and reflections but has some very minor swirls on the rear bumper and the front grille and a few on the roof but I am using four star ultimate paint cleanser to remove them and then finish off with Clearkote vanilla, red machine glaze and yellow moose to remove them and enhance the paint I know there is one spot that will need a very light polishing and I will do it by hand from now on. The whole car has been refinished with a rotary buffer with about six steps but I prefer to care for the paint by hand afterwards. You are far less likely to remove the amount of clearcoat that you would with a rotary. The only product I will ever use by machine on the car will be vanilla or red moose glaze using an edge 2000 white finishing pad Marring is a part of being a car owner but learning the proper techniques to care for it will keep the swirls and scratches to a bare minimum and I have learnt to live with a few swirls and marks here and there. I'll be busy from now on getting it ready for extreme horsepower show. You can have a totally swirl and scratch free paint job but the only way to keep it 100% free for life is to keep it garaged and covered, use a trailer to get it interstate, wash only when absolutely necessary and be really obsessed with the way you do it and use the best products you can find. Happy motoring Matthew. Proprietor of Dream Machines happy to help you at any time. Back to top XRFan101 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:24 Posts: 3610 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Victor Harbor SA, Australia View User Gallery (22) Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 5:45 pm    Post subject: Hey dude some very good tips thier, i usually just wash my car with the Meguires car wash and paint conditioner, seems to get most of the dirt and s*** off but after rinsing you can see heaps of swirl marks etc. Might give that Vanilla moose a go or something. Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 7:34 pm    Post subject: vinyl and rubber Also sounds like you need to update your wash technique and equipment I'd go with four star UPC cleanser and use clearkote afterwards and then seal the paint. Interior vinyl/plastic cleaning and protection Car vinyl & plastics I have found suffer badly when exposed to body oil emulsion (sweat) and not cleaned within a short time They also dislike water and I am against the use of alkaline cleaning chemicals on them I saw an adelaide detail shop blast a car's door trims with high pressure water and a local cleaning chemical company's product called Alkasteam High pressure alone is not good either To clean them is fairly easy and you don't need expensive boutique car care products in some cases either. To clean, use full strength or diluted (if you wish) Delimolene citrus based cleaner aka Citra Force Almost any citrus based cleaner will do it Simply spray on and wipe with a clean cloth (doesn't have to be microfibre) Another good product is Omikron OC-120 with a lovely spearmint fragrance and high foaming action. It is safe on paint and can also be used on leather If you prefer to use cleaners made only for automotive use, there are heaps that are really good Lexol, Four Star, Blue magic, 303, Optimum, Autoglym, Pinnacle, Detailers Pride & Wolfgang and they and others will do a superb job of cleaning Then to protect the dash, door trims etc, a dedicated vinyl protectant can be applied by spraying onto a cloth and wiping in with a microfibre towel There are a good range of C**k sprays (non aerosol) that will provide convenient month long protection with little time spent Don't use silicone based tyre, trim or plastic dressings or any vinyl or plastic dressing like 5-200 litre sized products that are made for the car dealer or detail shop industries. These dressings are either silicone, solvent , oil emulsion or water based products and they will either make the surfaces slippery or give them an un natural ultra high gloss finish or possibly both A cutting edge tyre gel such as Wolfgang black diamond, sonus, four star, detailers pride or pinnacle however can be used with no fear of drying, cracking, fading or slipperyness They are made from german super polymers and I have used wolfgang on my AU for a year now The result is high gloss but I liked that because I didn't like the charcoal color. Now it's gloss black and will stay that way If your after matte, the boutique brands (USA & Europe) seen and mentioned at autopia.org will do a brilliant job More to come. Back to top XRFan101 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:24 Posts: 3610 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Victor Harbor SA, Australia View User Gallery (22) Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 3:12 pm    Post subject: Yeah i might give you a buzz in a couple of weeks dude! Time for me to order some detailing/cleaning gear. Mainly after a good cleaner/cleanser/swirl remover and also a sealer etc. And some of them applicator pads. Will email you after i have gone through the catalouge or give ya a call or something. Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 6:34 pm    Post subject: OK not a problem Back to top -clampy- Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Posts: 1161 Joined: 19 Jun 2005 Location: perth sor WA, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 11:29 pm    Post subject: never heard of 'clay' with regards to car cleaning products.. whats it do hows it work? ok this is a bit of an adhoc plan for a car with pretty new paint(dark blue late 90s) give me a quick order in which to do things for the first time and about every year or 6 months or so(or before a show).. and also what to do very regularly.. im talking glass/paint only. is this about right? wash-dry-claywindows-claypanels-paintcleanser-glass sealant-wax-.. (how many coats of each aswell) then every few weeks wash-detailspray-dry? Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:38 am    Post subject: jmartion wrote: never heard of 'clay' with regards to car cleaning products.. whats it do hows it work? Clay has many forms from heavy grade to ultra fine, all have some abrasives in them and are a block that you glide over the paint after spraying the surface with a clay lubricant or quick detail spray It removes those mungrel contaminants like fallout that we hate so much and makes the paint smooth again They do not remove any paint but if you are not careful with them you can cause marring ok this is a bit of an adhoc plan for a car with pretty new paint(dark blue late 90s) give me a quick order in which to do things for the first time and about every year or 6 months or so(or before a show).. and also what to do very regularly.. im talking glass/paint only. is this about right? wash-dry-claywindows-claypanels-paintcleanser-glass sealant-wax-.. (how many coats of each aswell) then every few weeks wash-detailspray-dry? Wash - dry, clay ever 6 months or whenever the paint or glass feels rough, Paint cleanser or mild polish (depends on condition of paint) wetness enhancing glaze, sealer for paint & glass After that wash when necessary(every weekend for daily drivers), dry and use QD that protects the paint after each wash From then on, use paint cleanser by hand to remove any new marring or scratches and reapply sealant every four to eight months depending on how many coats you apply Before a show I go crazy and do everything over again A paste wax before a show will improve the paint even more and hide any new marks you couldn't get out Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 1:32 pm    Post subject: New cars There is a world wide belief, mostly of new car buyers who do not know all about car care that brand new cars are perfect and that the best you can ever have your car's finish is like new Sadly this is not the case New cars have vinyl and rubber trim that is dry and grey or brown, the glass has a slight rough feel to it and the paint, although being mark free, can be enhanced much further with paint cleansers, final polishers and glazes Clearcoat also is not some magical top coat (even though some people are told that) that prevents oxidisation and fading and that eliminates the need for protection All it is is paint without pigment and that is what gives new cars their depth and clarity However clearcoat can be easily removed, damaged, scratches easier than traditional acrylic or urethane finishes and can only withstand so much It is at risk of bombardment every time it's out of the garage from sulfuric acid rain, industrial fallout (metal filings from foundries), tree sap, dust particles, road grime, brake dust from cars alongside it and so much more The only way to keep it sparkling and better than new is to coat every surface with a protectant and multiple layers are best From wheel sealant to paint and glass acrylic and polymer sealer thick liquids and sprays to dedicated vinyl and rubber interior wipe on protectants and sprays Whenever you get a new car or know someone who is getting one, please enhance and protect it ASAP and do regular maintenance Washing & top up sealers - weekly Interior - monthly or once every two montly Exterior vinyl and plastic trim - as required Wheels - clean weekly, polish when necessary and seal - every 3 months Glass - clay & polish exterior & polish interior when new and whenever it feels gritty re clay Engine bay - rejuvinate with clearkote vanilla moose, autoglym bumper care or vinyl & rubber care spray or similar product and protect plastics with an engine sealant such as Meguiars engine kote, autoglym, sonus trim and motor kote and re apply every few months Paint seal - every three to eight months Best results are with 3 x sealant and then topped with a couple layers of a pure carnuaba wax - either brazilian white or ivory wax Some waxes such as meguiars need to be left on for 20 mins before removal with a cloth, new ones available can be removed 30 to 90 seconds are applying and have the same protection durability Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:42 pm    Post subject: Mistakes It's amazing what people will do to their car's They think that a microfibre cloth, towel or mitt will never scratch your paint or cause swirl marks no matter how they use it and wash it etc Well I have news for them In the hands of the careless or those who do not know but think they do, even the plushest ultra microfibre can cause some swirls and marring, especially during washing Here's a pic which shows how not to hold and use a microfibre towel My advice for using them a 40 by 40 cm cloth - fold in half twice A wash mitt that can also be used dry as a QD mitt - wear it like a glove, don't put your hand on top of it and wipe A 60 x 90 cm drying towel - fold in half two to three times and hold one corner of it and go from left to right, top to bottom to dry the car If you go in one direction, you reduce the swirl marks you could cause, it's easier to handle and it cannot slip out of your hand Don't forget, I am happy to help people with anything car care no matter what brand and it's totally free (except a phone call of course) and I will not try and get you to switch to any brands I sell, use or like The main thing is that your caring for your car Happy motoring Matthew microfibre mistakes.jpg  Description:  Filesize:  12.17 KB  Viewed:  14 Time(s) Back to top justfordima Technical Contributor Age:21 Posts: 2601 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Sydney NSW, Australia View User Gallery (7) Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:45 pm    Post subject: So, for drying, you would recommend a towel over a Chamoi (spelling)??? Also, what would you recommend for doing the mags? Like the stubborn corners? Sometimes I get the wire brush out, but I really would rather not. Cheers Back to top Tomek Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Posts: 2555 Joined: 07 Nov 2004 Location: No Where NSW, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 10:03 pm    Post subject: Sorry to stray off (kinda) But on one of our cars which recently (bout 3 or so months ago) just had a paint job redone on a door. Noticed some weird clear crap that looks like it dried. What would you use to get rid of that??? Back to top Aurora 98 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:35 Posts: 629 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Virginia SA, Australia View User Gallery (3) Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 10:05 pm    Post subject: justfordima wrote: So, for drying, you would recommend a towel over a Chamoi (spelling)??? Also, what would you recommend for doing the mags? Like the stubborn corners? Sometimes I get the wire brush out, but I really would rather not. Cheers Yes, they work unbelievably on slick paint, great on smooth but ok on rough paint but then again a chamois can be sticky on all and leaves wiping lines A waffle weave drying towel can dry an entire car without any wringing or drips when you hang it up once done It also will outlast a chamois as it can be washed and re used hundreds of times One brand I am getting in next year, has a drying towel that gets more absorbent as it gets damp and damper As for wheels, meguiars have some killer new gold class brushes out They should be in australia if not now, extremely soon I got a meguiars accessories DVD from the owner of one of the brands that I sell and although I don't use meguiars liquid products, I am very impressed with their brushes so far To polish mags you have lots of choices but I recommend P21s polishing soap as it does it without a harsh smell and in the time it takes to wash them and can be used on heaps of automotive and household surfaces as well To dry them, I use my detailers paradise wheel waffle towel but any drying towel will do, just don't use the same one you dried the body with Back to top Display posts from previous: All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First             Forum Index -> Exterior Modifications Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 23, 24, 25  Next Page 3 of 25   (c)2002-2008 Matti Jones and Brad Evans [50 queries :: 0.18697 seconds ]