 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
View User Gallery (3)
|
 Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:58 am Post subject: High speed vs low speed buffing |
 |
|
Understanding machine polishers
Unfortunately there is a myth around worldwide and has been for many years that polishing machines burn paint, leave swirl marks, are not safe for paint and should not be used
This is not true
What causes buffing swirls, 3D holograms and paint burns are the following
User error by untrained detailer or someone who was trained ten to fourty years ago
Both of whom do not realise that buffing the old fashioned way with rpm speeds of 1800 to 3000 rpm does not work anymore
The paints cannot hack it.
2. tilting the pad up
they heat up one area of the pad and thus burn edges
What is happening is the heat is being concentrated in that one area
when the pad is dead flat, the heat is spread out evenly
because the pad is not dead flat on the surface and they move the machine too fast and do not slow the RPM's down at the end, they leave buffing swirls and holograms behind
Some buffing swirls left behind are half moon/semi circle shaped
3. Too many detailers don't mask edges and use a pad thats too big for the panel and thus overhang of the pad when moved, burns edges, corners and the area where the bonnet, roof and boot meet the glass
On an EA to FG falcon, 6.5 inch pads are the best size for refinishing the boot. 7.5 inch are best for the bonnet and doors and 8 inch for the roof
4 inch to 5 1/2 inch pads are better for front guards, glass, trims (with trim dream) and bumper bars.
Please note - Abrasive products need to be fully broken down or they will cause marring
Gritty Cutting compounds that leave marks, filling polishes, wax impregnated polishes and glazes have now been replaced with cream or liquid diminishing abrasive levellers, compounds and polishes that are free of silicone, wax or any fillers
They break down finer and finer as they are worked in and will never leave marks behind
With advancements in paint technology and factory paints becoming thinner, more like plastic with either a rock hard or very soft super glossy finish, different techniques must be developed
The days of dry buffing with cornflour are over.
Whilst in the 20th century, buffing was done at 1800 to 3000 rpm with the machine turned on at high speed straight away, today's vehicles need to be done with low to medium speed buffing between 300 and 1600 rpm
With foam I start at 600 with my rotary, once the oils start to spread, I move to 750, then 900 for 30 seconds and slowly but surely I work my way at 200 rpm each time up to 1300 and then once the product has broken down, the rpm's are dropped to 1200, 1000, 850 and finally, 600 to 750 for a hologram, swirl mark, scratch, bird mark and nib free flawless finish
Wool is a different story
This cuts cooler than foam but it also cuts quicker and deeper so gotta be careful
The abrasives will break down faster too
Wool is applied to machine, polish to the paint
RPM set to 1500 for some products (menzerna, 1400 to 1600 for Prima, 1200 for Sonus, 1700 for Hi Temp
(if you don't use the speeds they were designed for, perfect correction of defects can't be achieved)
I spread the product at 600 or with the machine off
Then straight to the correct speed and slowly move the machine left to right then up and down and vice versa until the product film becomes clear or dissappears
Upon seeing this, I slow the machine down to 900 then stop
At Glowriders we offer hands on, real vehicle practice detailing training for those who want to learn to refinish or care for their car like the masters
before we teach people to use rotary machines at 600 to 1700 rpm, orbital machine polishing is taught
These machines take much longer to correct and can not leave holograms or burn paintwork
I suggest people learn to use a festool or bosch orbital and then once they have mastered that, move on to a rotary and either use both or go back to orbital (most will)
You can use non abrasive long term filling polishes with both machines as much as you like as no paint will be removed
Blame the user, not the machine and polish for the damage mentioned above
Many people have been burnt by an unprofessional hack detailer with a rotary doing two steps and hiding the holograms with wax
This is why the myth has been so wide spread
In people's minds - machine polisher = burnt edges, buff swirls, holograms, cut and polish
At Dream Machines and Glowriders, we call our work Levelling, correction and enhancement. Not cut and polish
We can remove 500 grit to 3000 grit marks without removing much paint at all (even less than with our previous favourite - Menzerna) with one polish
Take out bird s**t crazing that previously required wetsanding, reduce orange peel permanently from factory paints without removing any paint and much more
So forget the past and embrace the future
If anyone has any questions and wants to improve their techniques or learn, please contact me
I'll show you videos on this topic shortly |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DaveXR8
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:26
Posts: 175
Joined: 07 May 2007
Location: Sydney NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (5)
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Video is abit hard to see the results of the C1 but looks like its an easy sealant to apply. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
View User Gallery (3)
|
| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
unprofessional video but it was done for me in a hurry, they are quite busy
I'll show you guys this stuff by the end of the weekend with some new videos |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| (c)2002-2008 Matti Jones and Brad Evans |
[32 queries :: 0.04583 seconds ]
|
|
