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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
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 Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 7:26 pm Post subject: Hard to tell |
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| Tomek wrote: | | Sorry to stray off (kinda) But on one of our cars which recently (bout 3 or so months ago) just had a paint job redone on a door. Noticed some weird clear crap that looks like it dried. What would you use to get rid of that??? |
Not much to go by, it could be overspray (a common thing by some in the industry)
If so a clay bar or light polish will remove most overspray (usually oversprayed clear coat)
However if it isn't that, I would need to see a photo to be sure what it is and give you the right advice.
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Timmeh
Moderator
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Location: Perth WA, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:25 am Post subject: |
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I think I'll post my question here for your expertise Aurora 98:
My cars get rather dusty due to being in a carport and not a garage.
And then it rains and the water attracts the dirt into the drops and when it dries leaves the dirty water marks.
Now usually if you clean it before the days end or a couple of days just rubbing it with a wet cloth will get rid of it.
But I've left it a bit long on one of my cars and I couldnt get rid of it.
I used some polish but that didnt get rid of it either. You can only see the water marks if you look at a certain angle. Most of the time the panel looks perfect.
What is the best method to get rid of water marks? I'm not after prevention because its just that I forgot to wax the car, so I know how to prevent it I just need to know how to get rid of it once the water marks have taken hold.
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elusiverunner
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:50
Posts: 149
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Location: Guildford NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:21 pm Post subject: Car Detailing tips |
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Hello All,
I love to have my car clean and tidy, but isn't it bad to be washing a car with the water restrictions in place. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't there a $220 fine if you are caught using water for washing a car.
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data_mine
Technical Contributor
Age:27
Posts: 4855
Joined: 24 Nov 2004
Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Got to a commercial place, they recycle their water, so it's all good.
Or investigate those 'waterless' washes. Aurora98 what's your professional opinion with them?
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justfordima
Technical Contributor
Age:22
Posts: 2786
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Location: Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:57 am Post subject: |
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We've got recycled down here... no restrictions.
Cheers
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:40 pm Post subject: waterless |
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| data_mine wrote: | Got to a commercial place, they recycle their water, so it's all good.
Or investigate those 'waterless' washes. Aurora98 what's your professional opinion with them? |
Hi guys
First - timmeh
Try removing them with a white vinegar wash, if that doesn't do it, it's likely that the pores of the paint have opened up and the water marks are under the clearcoat or have etched through to the sub surface layers, so polishing with p21s finish restorer by hand or a final polish, light or medium compound by machine may be necessary
I had some fresh watermarks get on the boot of my AU and were on there for a day as I did not notice them and the p21s did the job
Since a polish did not work on your car, it's unlikely that a paint cleanser like four star, meguiars etc won't help, in this case machine paint rectification may be necessary
Yes, please wax the paint, multiple times giving 8 to 24 hours between coats to stop water marks again
An acrylic paint sealant followed by natural carnuaba wax will stop them from happening again, just remember to re coat the car every 4 to 6 months depending on what sealants and or waxes you have on
Wax absorbs the water and in some cases leaves a lightly rained on paint just like you washed it.
Do a search for water mark threads at autopia.org
Second - waterless washes
The term waterless wash is confusing now as there are quick detail sprays that actually protect the paint or pure spray sealants are sometimes labelled as a waterless wash
True waterless washes such as QEW (quick and easy wash) I do like , I have some of that at home but actually use it mixed with another product as a clay lubricant
No Wet brand and other waterless washes that claim to clean, polish, seal and wax your paint I do not like as every time you use them, you are lightly polishing the paint thus removing clearcoat and you cannot use them on sealed and waxed cars as it may strip most sealants except acrylics - klasse, zaino etc
My advice
If the car is really dirty, wash it the traditional way with a new twist - 3 buckets (1 - shampoo, 2 - half full of clean water) and two wash mitts (or one if your in a hurry)
If your at a show or on a cruise somewhere and it's lightly dusty - use a QD with 2 to 4 microfibre cloths (dry wash mitts are good for this) or use the new meguiars QD'ing microfibre bone pad
If travelling interstate and car is filthy - go to a self service wash bay (carlovers etc), use the high pressure gun but rinse the car side on using horizontal and vertical angles (depending on which panel) and then use QEW by protect all or similar true waterless wash
If your paint has nothing or just wax on it, you can use those big dusting mops (make sure it's clean and glide over paint to reduce swirl marks)
Any product that claims to do a multitude of things in one step I really dont like.
Waterless wash technology in the USA is improving and I believe we will see some really good ones in the coming year or two
Matty
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data_mine
Technical Contributor
Age:27
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Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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I was browsing through SuperCheap as they had a 20% of everything sale, and picked up a Meguires QuikClay pack (block of clay and spray bottle of quick detailer).
Worked an s*** treat!
My paint (exept the stone chips  ) is in excellent condition, but there was a multitude of bug stains I had given up on - but they came off with ease.
Spent the afternoon (a good four hours) wash, claying the whole car, and polymer polish. Came up looking a treat. I'll now keep on top of bug remains more quickly.
Thanks Matty for your good advice. I wouldn't have ever considered clay before (thinking it was heavily abrasive).
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:08 pm Post subject: Great |
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Excellent, well done, the meg's quik clay is an excellent readily available clay bar and I'm so glad you have done it, makes a big difference hey
Once you have rectified the paintwork with polishing and then sealed with any paint sealant and or wax, I do recommend the sonus ultra fine 2 bar pack as they will not strip the sealers if used with no pressure.
I am so glad that my advice has been put to good use and you have gotten a great result.
All I really want is to share my knowledge and know that people have absorbed it and the quality of their car has lifted because of that.
Boutique brands I have mentioned do make a big difference and are at the cutting edge of technology but it doesn't matter if you are using meguiars, mothers, zaino, swissol, zymol, turtle wax, autoglym, bowdens own, autosmart, p21s or any other brand, my advice should help you get the best out of the products, make detailing your car easier and give you more time to do other things.
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XCH45R
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:24
Posts: 2704
Joined: 27 Nov 2004
Location: Wollongong NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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Just thought I would let you's guys know about some good tyre shine and wheel cleaner I picked up from supercheap the other day, $20 a bottle but its well worth it.
Wheel Gold - Cleans brake dust and stuff off awesomely without damaging your wheels
Black Gold - Tyre shine (I used it last sunday and its still on good and black today, no mess, no browness)
There both made by formula 1 and come in a yellow bottle. Definetly worth the $20 each.. 
Ive used other brands such as meguirs n s**t.. nothing compares!
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
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| Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Wheel cleaner is pretty much obsolete now thanks to wheel sealants
Today's tip
Use as much purified water or demineralised water to wash your car as you can and always use warm water as it acts as a wettening agent.
Makes the water softer which means less chance of water spots
Remember to clay wheels, head and tail lights and glass if you have fallout on them or the paint doesn't feel slick or smooth
For those here who know how to use a rotary polisher or know someone who does.
For an even slicker feeling paint job, clay before machine buffing using a medium (for white or silver cars) or a fine grade for all other colours, then compound or polish
Once that is done, clay again with the same bar or an ultra fine bar.
Fallout are metal filings from foundries/factories and on unprotected paint, stick to the clearcoat and penetrate the lower coats
Never machine or hand polish a car prior to claying, it's hard work
All it does is take the heads off the top layer filings , there are more underneath
Clay, machine buff, clay again and then continue polishing and enhancing the paint and then seal
This guarantees that all the fallout has been removed
Sealing the paint will reduce the amount of fallout that sticks to the clearcoat and it will not be able to penetrate the lower coats and will be easier to remove.
Do not use water as a clay lubricant, a car wash soap is the bare minimum, a dedicated clay lubricant is the best option as it prevents marring
Clearkote quik shine is one Quick detail spray that you can use
Some quick detail sprays dry really quick and cause the clay to stick and leave lots of residue and its a PITA to remove
Klasse all in one cleaner polish and acrylic sealant, you can mix with distilled water , Quik shine or a clay lube to not only lubricate the clay bar but will also very lightly lightly polish the paint as well.
All members - the autopia guide to detailing is available to download from autopia.org and I have my catalog and more info on the products I offer and what my company is all about , available by email or CD
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XCH45R
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:24
Posts: 2704
Joined: 27 Nov 2004
Location: Wollongong NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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| what is a wheel sealent mate?
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 5:47 pm Post subject: Sorry |
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Thought I had better say this - I welcome car care tips and tricks from all members.
I sort of shot you down for mentioning the wheel cleaners so sorry about that mate, thanks for the tip, good to see there are some over the counter products that work for you.
There is no way that I can know it all, even if I spent 24hrs a day 7 days a week on autopia and detail city
So come on all members, chime in with your tips
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
View User Gallery (3)
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| Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 6:12 pm Post subject: pics |
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A wheel sealant is simply a super polymer protectant that you can apply multiple coats to all wheels
Apply, leave for one to seven hours and then remove
Leave for 24 hours and apply the next coat
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XCH45R
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:24
Posts: 2704
Joined: 27 Nov 2004
Location: Wollongong NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (6)
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:13 pm Post subject: Re: Sorry |
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| Aurora 98 wrote: | Thought I had better say this - I welcome car care tips and tricks from all members.
I sort of shot you down for mentioning the wheel cleaners so sorry about that mate, thanks for the tip, good to see there are some over the counter products that work for you.
There is no way that I can know it all, even if I spent 24hrs a day 7 days a week on autopia and detail city
So come on all members, chime in with your tips |
It's all good mate, Im sure the wheel sealent thing would work alot better than any buy over the counter wheel cleaner, but i dont have the expertise or knowledge unlike you to know such things! lol all I do is scrub everyday and hope it dont rain! lol
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
View User Gallery (3)
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:48 pm Post subject: Re: Sorry |
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| XCH45R wrote: | | Aurora 98 wrote: | Thought I had better say this - I welcome car care tips and tricks from all members.
I sort of shot you down for mentioning the wheel cleaners so sorry about that mate, thanks for the tip, good to see there are some over the counter products that work for you.
There is no way that I can know it all, even if I spent 24hrs a day 7 days a week on autopia and detail city
So come on all members, chime in with your tips |
It's all good mate, Im sure the wheel sealent thing would work alot better than any buy over the counter wheel cleaner, but i dont have the expertise or knowledge unlike you to know such things! lol all I do is scrub everyday and hope it dont rain! lol |
Believe me anyone can be a successful carer of their car
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Instrument cluster
In most cases, the plastic covering the gauges etc is overlooked or just de dusted
Here is what I do to mine occasionally
Really helps keep it scratch free and sparking clean for longer
GOLDEN RULE - never wipe with any rags, even clean ones can leave scratches
Microfibre is the only way to go
Polish lightly with a foam or microfibre pad with any plastic polish
Doesn't matter what brand really
I like to enhance mine with clearkote vanilla moose and red moose
To finish off, a plastic sealant or any type of paint sealant (be it polymer, super polymer, acrylic, ceramic etc) it doesn't matter
A couple of light coats left on for an hour is great
Last time I used klasse acrylic but next time I will get out the wolfgang plastic sealant
Don't buff hard, that material is extremely easy to marr
Same goes for black (non body colour) side mirror backings.
Machine or hand polishing and any protection system will have it looking better than the paint and prevent or seriously reduce the bugs /stone chips from pitting and chipping it
AU Falcon owners - to prevent all exterior mouldings (especially vertical door plastics) from being chipped and leaving it full of white spots, please clean and then protect with multiple coats
Twin spoiler XR6 owners - those that haven't painted the top wing
To make it glossier - apply a coat of tire gel, leave for a couple hours and then protect it every couple months with a paint sealant or wax
What I've done on mouldings
Vanilla moose, autoglym 07B vinyl and rubber, wolfgang tire gel
a few hours later, Klasse SG x 3 coats and 2 coats of carnuaba wax
Seven years later - not a chip on any
I've seen so many AU's with this and it's a real turnoff
A few people have painted them gloss black and that is one alternative
Looks killer
My best advice - protect every surface of your car multiple times as following
Two to seven months for paint and two to three for everything else
Happy motoring
Matthew
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ghiawar
Fordmods - Smokin em up
Age:31
Posts: 255
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Surrey Downs SA, Australia
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| Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2005 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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Hey matthew,
I'm hoping you can help me out here, my sister has a red 88 Honda Accord (I know not a ford) and she was getting small white patches on her roof and bonnet. Today she washed the car by hand using Armor-all car wash and the entire roof and bonnet have gone white. It looks shocking. She was going to cut and polish it but I have told her not to until I get your advice. I have included a couple of pics to show you what I mean.
This white s**t wont rub off, but if you get the panel wet it disappears until the panel dries again.
Any ideas?
Cheers Alex.
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
View User Gallery (3)
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| Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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Hi mate
Looks like bleaching/oxidation from living very close to the beach or frequenting the beach on very windy days
Salt is not friendly to paint
Along with that, looks like the sun's UV rays have done some serious damage
If the paint hasn't been machine polished more than two or three times, there should be enough paint left to fix it without removing too much paint or clearcoat (if it's a clearcoat paint job)
Most 88 cars, especially jap cars were not clearcoated
the very front of the bonnet looks like water drip damage due to it not being dried in time every time it's washed
Sadly that needs the assistance of an edge yellow or black foam pad and my makita 9227CB rotary
Do you want to bring it to my clinic next sunday and I'll try and fix it for you when we have a lunch break.
Good thing is you get it fixed (hopefully) and it shows everyone there what a rotary can do
thanks for the pic
All the best and PM me if you can make it to the clinic or let me know the most convenient time for you to bring it to me
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Aurora 98
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:35
Posts: 641
Joined: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Virginia SA, Australia
View User Gallery (3)
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| Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 6:58 pm Post subject: Wheel arches - metal and plastic care |
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Now I have finally come to probably the most overlooked and neglected section of a vehicle - the wheel arches
I see 99% of cars daily with dirty, muddy, orange colored arches, both the black protective coated metal and the plastics
If you detail the arches, the look of your car can improve dramatically
Here is what I do, please add your own tips if you have any
Each wash - shampoo wheels, tyres and arches with a quality car shampoo using two buckets (1 x shampoo, 1 x water), a sea sponge and wheel brush
The wheels/tyres get cleaned with the sponge which is rinsed 2-3 times for each wheel and the entire arch area is thoroughly cleaned (after high pressure blasting) with the brush, I always ensure that the bottom inside edge of the rear quarter panel is cleaned to the point where I cannot feel any grit in there.
After shampooing you have a myriad of things/products you can do/use on them depending on what type of result you want
This is what I have done
SONUS trim & motor kote on the metals - is an acrylic wax that protects engine bay metals and plastics and wheel arches
That provides more protection from chips etc and enhances the look
Wolfgang black diamond tire gel on the metals to provide a jet black glossy look
On the plastics - autoglym 07B vinyl and rubber cleaner - rub in and wipe off a few minutes later.
Optimum protectant plus - spray and wipe
Wolfgang black diamond tire gel
Other things I could do on the plastics
Autoglym vinyl and rubber care spray - top stuff - spray on and walk away
OMIKRON RD BLACK wheel arch coating - brush on is best
It provides the blackest, shiniest results I have gotten and lasts ages but is messy. Do not spray on as your left with drips and runs that look horrible
Forever black trim shield
303 aerospace protectant spray
Even a simple spraying with any aerosol tire shine provides a short term very nice result
Metals - if you have the time, after cleaning - spray on an underbody sealer or use a gloss black spray paint - apply a few coats and to finish off, spray two to three coats of acrylic clearcoat which is available from most auto parts stores.
Really, no matter what you use, it's best to do it after each wash
Only takes a few minutes but is really worth it
If left long enough , the wheel arch plastics will fade and require serious cleaning with a plastic restorer like vanilla moose
GOLDEN RULE
Make sure when high pressure cleaning the arches that you keep the gun moving quickly. It can take only seconds of spraying in one area for the black protective coating to be stripped off by the pressure
Matt
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