Home |  Forums |  Search |  My Profile |  Chat  Photo Gallery |  Events Calendar |  Technical Documents  No messages |  New Posts |  Watched Topics |  Register   Help! Smartlock gone crazy??? Goto page 1, 2  Next          Forum Index -> Interior Modifications Latest ratings Highest-ranked posts Highest-ranked topics Highest-ranked posters   dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 7:39 pm    Post subject: Help! Smartlock gone crazy??? Can anyone please help me. (almost) every time I go to unlock the doors, they immediately lock again. It started intermittently, but now is very consistent. There doesn't appear to be any unusual codes on the smartlock jewel on the dash. I'm suspecting the BCM. Looking at the wiring diagram, I can't see any other inputs to the BCM that would control the door other than the door lock switch and the smartlock key fob. Any other suggestions? Cheers, Dang. Back to top Punnisher_42 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:25 Posts: 718 Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Location: Tingalpa QLD, Australia View User Gallery (24) Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Help! Smartlock gone crazy??? Sounds like a door is not latching properly or a lock mechanism sticking. just my first instinct. Back to top One Drone Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:22 Posts: 2011 Joined: 05 Nov 2004 Location: Penrith NSW, Australia View User Gallery (6) Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2004 12:18 am    Post subject: It's Has nothing to do with smartlock which is an immobiliser. The central locking is screwing up which is not uncommon, sounds like an actuator on its way out.. Just have to find out which one it is. Back to top XCH45R Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:24 Posts: 2704 Joined: 27 Nov 2004 Location: Wollongong NSW, Australia View User Gallery (6) Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2004 9:36 am    Post subject: mine does this when the door lock pins arnt in properly.. Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2004 8:27 pm    Post subject: Hmmm, I'll have to have a look at the latches then. If I do need a new actuator, is there any difference between the doors? That is, do you get front and rear ones, or left and right ones, or front left, FR, RL and RR ones? Or are they all the same? Thanks all for your thoughts. Cheers, DG. Back to top XCH45R Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:24 Posts: 2704 Joined: 27 Nov 2004 Location: Wollongong NSW, Australia View User Gallery (6) Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 7:30 am    Post subject: worked it out yet cheif? Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 8:21 am    Post subject: Nope, still head scratching. I tried opening doors one by one and 'latching' them with a screwdriver to the closed position, pushing the 'door open' switch in and operating the locks, hoping it would work OK when the d**k latch was 'under test'. No cigar. Still playing up after I tried this with all four doors. Bugger. Looks like I'm up for new actuators. Cheers, DG. Back to top XCH45R Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:24 Posts: 2704 Joined: 27 Nov 2004 Location: Wollongong NSW, Australia View User Gallery (6) Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 6:12 pm    Post subject: try taking the both front door lock pins out and see if it does it.. Back to top One Drone Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:22 Posts: 2011 Joined: 05 Nov 2004 Location: Penrith NSW, Australia View User Gallery (6) Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 6:26 pm    Post subject: Ford charge something like $100 for each actuator and they are all different afaik which is why I suggest you find out which one is causing the problem. There are also different versions of actuator.. Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 8:38 pm    Post subject: OK, pardon my ignorance, but exactly what are the door lock pins? If you mean the traditional door lock buttons on the top of the door trim, EL only has one on drivers door. What does that tell me if it does or doesn't work after I've done that? Haven't got around to pulling the internal trims off yet. Glad to see they have got away from those infernal plastic pins to hold the trim on. Cheers, Dang. Back to top Punnisher_42 Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:25 Posts: 718 Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Location: Tingalpa QLD, Australia View User Gallery (24) Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 10:29 pm    Post subject: I don't know if this will help, but if the lock is adjar on my car, then the mechanism makes a clunking noise. all other doors go down and then come back up. don't know if this will help. Back to top joolz Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:34 Posts: 2385 Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia View User Gallery (11) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:38 am    Post subject: If the door lock button is down too far it will do the same thing(not letting the lock home all the way) get a small flat head drver and lever the button out from the window side (window down) push door lock down with door closed (no button on yet), then with a pair of pointy pliers pull out the plastic insert on the button but dont pull it off!! simply push the button onto the lock until it bottoms out. with the door locked the button should sit flush. Back to top mongrelEB Fordmods Parts Gopher Age:25 Posts: 55 Joined: 26 Nov 2004 Location: Perth WA, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:38 pm    Post subject: Easy way - Unplug each door loom one at a time until the problem stops. Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 8:20 am    Post subject: Yes, I thought of doing that, but I wasn't sure whether a 'missing' actuator would upset the system or not. Still haven't had a good chance to have a look at the beast. It's primarily my wifes car, and I haven't seen much of it lately! (I have to be content with driving the ol' XY. A tough job, but someone's gotta do it! ) Cheers, Dang. Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 10:16 am    Post subject: Had a chance to pull the beast apart last night. Started with #1 sons door (5 years old, that doors probably taken the most abuse.) Disconnected the actuator, hey presto, all working cool. But the actuator seems to work fine in both directions... Reading les manual, I noted that the 'stall test' was to check that the actuator was not drawing more than the 6 amp limit. Hmmm, I wonder if removing the one actuator reduced the total current draw to less than the total limit? Like I said, it is intermittent and seems to be heat related. Hotter it is, more likely to play up. Perhaps the BEM monitors the total current draw when it grounds the UNLOCK line, freaks out if it is above the limit, and locks the doors again. I've got a theory that the current sense resistor increases in value when it gets hotter, and that it is just on the limit. I'm getting my new Blue BEM from red_rocket this week , perhaps that will solve my problems? If I can find a 30A ammeter, I will try measuring the current across the door lock fuse. I will test my BEM theory before I start spending $$$ on replacing actuators. Thoughts, comments, suggestions? DG. Back to top madmax Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:44 Posts: 3739 Joined: 18 Nov 2004 Location: Skye VIC, Australia View User Gallery (10) Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 10:25 am    Post subject: dang wrote: Had a chance to pull the beast apart last night. Started with #1 sons door (5 years old, that doors probably taken the most abuse.) Disconnected the actuator, hey presto, all working cool. But the actuator seems to work fine in both directions... Reading les manual, I noted that the 'stall test' was to check that the actuator was not drawing more than the 6 amp limit. Hmmm, I wonder if removing the one actuator reduced the total current draw to less than the total limit? Like I said, it is intermittent and seems to be heat related. Hotter it is, more likely to play up. Perhaps the BEM monitors the total current draw when it grounds the UNLOCK line, freaks out if it is above the limit, and locks the doors again. I've got a theory that the current sense resistor increases in value when it gets hotter, and that it is just on the limit. I'm getting my new Blue BEM from red_rocket this week , perhaps that will solve my problems? If I can find a 30A ammeter, I will try measuring the current across the door lock fuse. I will test my BEM theory before I start spending $$$ on replacing actuators. Thoughts, comments, suggestions? DG. Maybe lubicating the lock mechanism on that door will reduce the work load on the actuator. Or you could replace that actuator and remove another to see if you theory is correct. Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 2:24 pm    Post subject: Taking another one off is a good idea Mad Max. I have thought of that, but it's a damned sight easier replacing the BEM to test that first (especially since I'm doing that anyway!). If the new BEM doesn't fix it, that will definitely be the next test. A colleague reminded me that a bad connection could easily add a fraction of an ohm to the sense resistor. Thanks, Dang. Back to top Stevo Fordmods Tyre Shredder Posts: 378 Joined: 05 Nov 2004 Location: Melb VIC, Australia View User Gallery (4) Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 4:11 pm    Post subject: keep trying to lock it whilst putting ur ear to each door, until u hear what door is buggering it up. My guess it is the actuator, and knowing fords, probably the drivers door ? Back to top Rapier Fordmods - Getting Side Ways Age:22 Posts: 3769 Joined: 05 Nov 2004 Location: Hobart TAS, Australia View User Gallery (33) Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:07 pm    Post subject: hmm actuators a re a common fault on an ef 1 after that most were fixed, ive got the same prob at the moment, but it wasnt just the actuators that were stuffed, both door locked assemblies were kinda broken. well one was brocken the other one just has a rod in am mess same out it got turned aroun causing the locks to go spastic, the other one had a broken bit of plasic causing drivers side not to lock with remote keyless. bit of a nightmare all good now though. so it could be anything really make sure u check everything before lashing out for new actuators Back to top dang Fordmods Stock as a Rock Age:35 Posts: 112 Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Location: Canberra ACT, Australia View User Gallery (0) Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 9:57 pm    Post subject: OK guys, this is really starting to bug me. Got the new BEM in, still playing up So the faulty BEM theory is pretty much shot. Pulled the skin off the drivers door, pulled the loom off that and it seems to work fine as well. I guess the four together are just drawing too much current. One think I noticed - the drivers door won't lock when it is unlatched. Is that how it's supposed to be? Could be the latch thats causing the problem. Who knows? Other thing I thought of - the drivers door has an extra ground wire and switch, so it grounds the appropriate line when actuated by the lock button or the key barrel. Perhaps it's opening, and then grounding the lock line again. Looks like I'm gonna have to rig something up to do a current draw test on each lock actuator. Thanks again for all your ideas guys, but looks like I'm still a ways of solving this one. Dang. Back to top Display posts from previous: All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First             Forum Index -> Interior Modifications Goto page 1, 2  Next Page 1 of 2   (c)2002-2008 Matti Jones and Brad Evans [47 queries :: 0.06986 seconds ]