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Motor Swap issues

 
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:06 pm    Post subject: Motor Swap issues Reply with quote

OK iv got car running Good Idling is fine and so is timing but when i go to drive it when the revs build up it Backfires and losses power
The motor is running very rich?
I am using the ECU out of A 4.0l aout and my car is a 3.9 manual now


Help Please


Last edited by duvauchellemotors on Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total
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alfy
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

could just be a flat battery.
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Froudey
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the wire on the starter???
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no the battery is fine and the wire was on the startor
To get the car running i bridged the startor with the battery but i wont the key to work ????
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alfy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what ECU do you have and what month 1992 is your car?
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the 3.9 ECU in it and im not sure on month but its a 1992
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CozEF
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did centrepoint 3.9's have the injector cutouts in the head?

If not could pose a slight problem lol, has it got spark and compression?
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Froudey
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you just put the motor and gearbox you can still use the eb ecu. i am sure a loom or something has been left off or something or fuse related is it a smartlock model??? or pre Smartlock? i did a manual conversion and couldn't start the caar for like 2 weeks it turns out i left the loom unplugged underneather the intake manifold
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea i dont think it is a loom that is left off because it can start when i run the started direct to the battery?

also when it does run its real s**t and missing at iudle also it back fires alot?
I am going to check to the plugs hope that they are the problem for it running bad but still puzzed about the starting problem?
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Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it may be the auto box starter cut out since you removed the switch with the box. If you joint the wires it may work? I once had this switch die on me and had to short the starter solenoid with a piece of wire to start it.
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yoy could be right but whitch of the wires are they
cheers

also when i have it running it wont idle and when i give it some rev to keep it going it back fires ou the exhurst and also out the intake manifold
I have a 4.0ltr manifold on it but i dont think that is the prob
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relaxed_diplomacy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if the timing could be out, causing combustion problems, including out-of-phase, irregular, and incomplete combustion.
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am having trouble getting the timing right im not sure if it is 10 past TDC or IGN i assume its TDC and 10 past is Ignithion if so where should the rotor be Through my knowlegd i think it should be around number one ??

Ive swaped distributers with the one of the 4.0ltr and now the car wont start but it has spark and the fuel pump is running So im bung out of ideas

Also can i use the 4.0ltr Computer even though it an auto one??
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

also its very differcult to do the timing because it wont idle????
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relaxed_diplomacy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

duvauchellemotors wrote:
I am having trouble getting the timing right im not sure if it is 10 past TDC or IGN i assume its TDC and 10 past is Ignithion if so where should the rotor be Through my knowlegd i think it should be around number one ??

Ive swaped distributers with the one of the 4.0ltr and now the car wont start but it has spark and the fuel pump is running So im bung out of ideas

It is meant to be 10 degrees before top dead centre. That might fix things. Turning the dizzy clockwise retards the timing.

I suggest you turn the dizzy to as close as you can guesstimate, then try and run the motor and initiate the 'self test' mode. I found that adjusting the dizzy without doing the 'self test' mode (or resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery for say 30min) seemed to make the computer go a bit haywire.

Quote:
Also can i use the 4.0ltr Computer even though it an auto one??

I have heard of ways to use auto computers in manual cars, but that's a question for someone else.
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea is 10 before TDC the marking IGN also i swaped dizzys and then the car would not statrt at all i had spark and the fuel pump was firing up so i tried a bit of easy start and the thing went bang thier was an explosion and it shot fire out the throttle body and the rocker cover craked right in halth ????
i dont think it did anythin internaly because it still has sompresion and sound all god when it turns over
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sooty72
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mate, the timing is out. Re-check your firing order, #1 TDC, etc. The reason it cracked the valve cover is it ignited all the fuel that has been getting into the sump when your trying to start it.
Regards the auto start switch, there is an inhibitor switch that stops the car starting unless it is in Park or Neutral. Find the right wires, and short them together, then it will start.
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[JETEB6]
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sooty72 wrote:
Mate, the timing is out. Re-check your firing order, #1 TDC, etc. The reason it cracked the valve cover is it ignited all the fuel that has been getting into the sump when your trying to start it.
Regards the auto start switch, there is an inhibitor switch that stops the car starting unless it is in Park or Neutral. Find the right wires, and short them together, then it will start.


I beleive this to be your answer. LOL this happens alot at trade school with the first years doing timing. Theres no time constraints on your work i'm assuming so just double check double check!!
Start with the number 1 TDC and sounds like you'll be on your way good luck!
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duvauchellemotors
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

can any one please tell me what wires are for the inhibitor switch cause iv tried the plug with 3 wires on it that goes to the side the shifter is on ??
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