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mute
Fordmods Oompa Loompa
Posts: 45
Joined: 11 Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
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 Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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I am having the exact same problem as you mentioned, as is one of my mates. We both have EF Fairmonts.
When its hot it plays up heaps more. So very very annoying.
I was having a look today and I think it's something with the right rear door. I went around slamming the doors hard, and when I slammed the right rear door, it did the stupid "lock, unlock, lock, unlock" thing.
Hopefully either of us finds a solution soon  |
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dang
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:35
Posts: 112
Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Well, hopefully not premature claiming victory, but I think I've solved the problem.
It appears to be fixed, thanks to a seamless transaction from a forum member who sold me a new drivers door actuator. (He still has one left, so mute, you can probably expect to hear from him!)
Seems that what was happening, was that when the drivers door unlocked, it shorted the lock line to ground, and promptly locked the damn thing again.
Replacing the drivers door acutator appears to have solved my problem.
To check the operation, connect a red led in series with a 330 ohm resistor (or up to about 1.8kohm, but use a 330 if you want to see them in daylight!) anode to the +12V wire, and cathode (side with the flat bit on the LED body) to the 'lock' line. Add a green LED and resistor between +12V and the 'unlock' line.
Watch what happens when you press the door switch. When lock is finished, red light should stay on, when unlock finished, green light should stay on.
Seems in all my stuffing around with it, I've made a dodgy connection on my 'lock' wire to the drivers door. Sometimes the drivers door will not lock. It could well have been my problem all along. Might need to replace a certain wire....
I'll keep you all posted.
Dang. |
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dang
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:35
Posts: 112
Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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If this seems to be a common problem, I might be able to put my thoughts in a document for the Fordmods collection.
A moderator can PM me if they think this is a good idea.
Cheers,
Dang. |
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dang
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:35
Posts: 112
Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 8:00 am Post subject: |
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<<< Multiple expletives deleted >>>
It doesn't appear to have solved my problem after all. Still hunting. I may have to swallow my pride and visit an auto electrician.....
NOOOOOOO!!!!!!
Dang.
(watch this space.....) |
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smee
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Posts: 180
Joined: 07 Nov 2004
Location: Widebay QLD, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2005 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Do the indicators flash twice on lock as well? |
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mute
Fordmods Oompa Loompa
Posts: 45
Joined: 11 Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2005 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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Damn, almost had a solution!
Yes, the indicators still flash properly. |
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dang
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:35
Posts: 112
Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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<<< More multiple expletives deleted >>>
Thought I was on to something last night. I'm thinking that it seems to work quite well with any three actuators, but with all four connected it is intermittent.
I went back to my original theory, seems that something about all four causes the BEM to pull the lock line to ground again. Too much current perhaps? I tried lowering the battery voltage by turning on the ignition and headlights. Couldn't get it to play up. So I tried replacing the cent. lock fuse with an IN4007 diode, about 0.7V drop. Worked last night, but not today.....
I'll keep you all posted.
Cheers,
Dang. |
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sickd
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:25
Posts: 606
Joined: 11 Nov 2004
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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lowering the voltage will increase the current, maybe it starts to happen when your car battery is getting low, a car battery is around 14.4 v new and as they get old it drops (durrr)) say around 12 causing an increase in current when something is used.
just another spanner in the works to think about. |
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ThinkTank
Fordmods - Smokin em up
Age:25
Posts: 258
Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Location: Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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What does smartlock do??
It just seems to flash on my dash borad constantly, whats its MAIN purpose? |
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dang
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:35
Posts: 112
Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Location: Canberra ACT, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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ThinkTank - smartlock is an immobiliser. Check out the documents section.
Sorry Sickd - lower voltage across a resistive load means lower current. Ohms law is V=IR or in this case, I=V/R. Despite a motor windings inductance, at DC a motor can be approximated by a resistive load.
Tried cleaning up the battery terminals - that didn't work either.
Closer inspection sounds like something sticking in the rear drivers side door.
I'll put the trim back on the drivers door and assume that is not the problem for now.
I'll pull the rear door apart (again) on Saturday.
Dang. |
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flyingnunrt
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Posts: 189
Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Location: Tamworth NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 9:42 am Post subject: |
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All doors have to lock within a certain amount of time if they don't then they unlock again.
If you've got a crook actuator it could be taking more time than it is supposed to or the BEM is not recieving the lock signal in time.
With the drivers window down, try helping the snipper button down into the lock position within the same time frame that all the other actuactors are working.
If it locks then you've most likely found the crook acutuator. |
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smee
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Posts: 180
Joined: 07 Nov 2004
Location: Widebay QLD, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 9:56 am Post subject: |
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| what about when they lock by themselves later (like few minutues-hour?)?? |
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