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Advise on Panel & Paint up and going again
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:53 pm    Post subject: . Reply with quote

schnoods wrote:
My ef xr8 is heritage green and the paint on top of the roof and bonnet is starting to go hazey. A litttlee bit whitish in some areas and there are a few marks (from bat droppings). Is it too late to get out the white haze? If so is it possible to do a partial respray or will that look a bit mismatched due to paint ageing?

the problem here is the clear is starting to break down you know how you see reds fading etc if the rest of the paint is ok you should be able to get away with roof bonnet boot and blend the front guards for a good match get the rest of the car cut and polished while your at it if you leave it to long and the clear starts to peel or crack you will have to get the panels paint stripped or else it will crack and craze underneath the new paint and you will up for it all again if you get it early enough you can dry sand the old clear off then paint over
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schnoods
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice.

I'll get cracking before it does!
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EFFII
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my brother has nc fairlane ghia 93 model and the rear bumper is no longer holding an i was wondering wat he can do to get this proplem fixed and how much is a new bumper?
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EFFII
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my brother has nc fairlane ghia 93 model and the rear bumper is no longer holding an i was wondering wat he can do to get this proplem fixed and how much is a new bumper?
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:39 am    Post subject: ' Reply with quote

FaBz wrote:
my brother has nc fairlane ghia 93 model and the rear bumper is no longer holding an i was wondering wat he can do to get this proplem fixed and how much is a new bumper?

The rear bar is similar to the ea as the cover is held to a plastic reinforcment by plastic lugs that have the ends melted and these let go after a few years.The costless way to fix is to remove the chrome mould and while holding the bar is the position it should sit is to drill some 1/8 holes through the cover and into the rio with some countersunk head screws attatch the two together only do about three for a start one on each end and one in the middle.Then remove the bumper and check postioning also check the condition of the plastic slide clips on the sides.now you can add a couple more screws 2 or 4 should be plenty then either glue on the old mould or i would suggest see your local pinstripe supplier {ask a local panel shop who they use}and get him to supply a new mould {much cheaper than gen} If this gets too hard a new bar will set you back around 300-400 plus paint
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cooki_monsta
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 12:27 pm    Post subject: Re: . Reply with quote

nlbxr6 wrote:
cooki_monsta wrote:
thanks for the tips nlb, the paint turned out pretty good n i ended up buyin a nice grav feed gun so im pleased icon_biggrin.gif how do you think a black base with blue pearl thru it would look??? *has ideas for new paint job* icon_biggrin.gif

if you mix blue pearl with the black base it will turn purple you are better off doing a three layer which means black base then a pearl concentrate {you mix with a little bit of clear} thinner right out then clear over top it will give it a much better effect ie black then where the light hits will be blue just make sure you dont apply the pearl to thick it will end up streaky make your concentrate really thin 50ml pearl to 800ml thinners and use a wide fan on your gun you will have more joy now with the gravity gun but do a couple of practice panels to get the right effect more coats the bluer it will be good luck


thanks for that it sounds insane icon_biggrin.gif now all i need is the money to do it icon_razz.gif but thats how i want to respray my car icon_biggrin.gif
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AdamN
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamN wrote:
Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.

sorry i dont know exactly where you mean but i am asuaming you mean the sill my suggestion for a temp fix for a year or so is get a grinder and get rid of all the rust that is there then use a convertor read the instructions because if you dont remove the convertor it will cause more then tap the edges of the rust hole in about five mm then get some fibreglass type filler it has more body and wont pall through then some light weight fill {bog} to finish it off make sure you use some primer before paint or the paint wont stick to the filler
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AdamN
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nlbxr6 wrote:
AdamN wrote:
Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.

sorry i dont know exactly where you mean but i am asuaming you mean the sill my suggestion for a temp fix for a year or so is get a grinder and get rid of all the rust that is there then use a convertor read the instructions because if you dont remove the convertor it will cause more then tap the edges of the rust hole in about five mm then get some fibreglass type filler it has more body and wont pall through then some light weight fill {bog} to finish it off make sure you use some primer before paint or the paint wont stick to the filler


That is exactly what I meant, thanks icon_smile.gif

Also.. what would be the solution for a fix that would last longer?
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamN wrote:
nlbxr6 wrote:
AdamN wrote:
Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.

sorry i dont know exactly where you mean but i am asuaming you mean the sill my suggestion for a temp fix for a year or so is get a grinder and get rid of all the rust that is there then use a convertor read the instructions because if you dont remove the convertor it will cause more then tap the edges of the rust hole in about five mm then get some fibreglass type filler it has more body and wont pall through then some light weight fill {bog} to finish it off make sure you use some primer before paint or the paint wont stick to the filler


That is exactly what I meant, thanks icon_smile.gif

Also.. what would be the solution for a fix that would last longer?

mig a plate in there
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AdamN
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I have no idea about welding, so I'll pass on that hehehe
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Mhgill
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there,
I've got a friend about to do a cheap paint job on my XD Ute, how good is the best enamel paint these days? can you get a good shine out of it? similar to acrylic with clear?

And how long would you expect it to last before it fades?

finally, what polish is best?

Thanks
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mhgill wrote:
Hi there,
I've got a friend about to do a cheap paint job on my XD Ute, how good is the best enamel paint these days? can you get a good shine out of it? similar to acrylic with clear?

And how long would you expect it to last before it fades?

finally, what polish is best?

Thanks

why would you want to use enamel unless its baked enamel{2 pack} if it is a solid colour you will get better shine than acrylic because you have to buff acrylic. enamel takes forever to dry but its up to you
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skidder
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey,

i live in brisbane and need to get a patch fixed on my front bar (about 10cm diameter circle)...the paint has come off from scraping a wall and there may be a few light scratches...do you have any idea of prices id be looking at? the colour is gunmetal grey (off an el falcon)

cheers nick
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:16 pm    Post subject: . Reply with quote

around $400 will respray the whole bar where abouts in bris I might be able to recommend someone
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Gaz
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

scratches on a bonnet.

from a round pole laying across the bonnet.

colour is bionic blue? i think, BF falcon, paint is only 9 months old. no dents, just a few scratchs along the bonnet and a few deep ones.


some guy today said $750, and they have to over spray to match the side panels? i know u need to over spray to match on older cars, but should they need to do that on a 9 month old car with 5000km, and spends most days in a garage?
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gaz wrote:
scratches on a bonnet.

from a round pole laying across the bonnet.

colour is bionic blue? i think, BF falcon, paint is only 9 months old. no dents, just a few scratchs along the bonnet and a few deep ones.


some guy today said $750, and they have to over spray to match the side panels? i know u need to over spray to match on older cars, but should they need to do that on a 9 month old car with 5000km, and spends most days in a garage?

Any mettalic colour will need to be blended as the name says mettallic is little pieces of metal which will reflect different colours if laying different ways.Price is on the money for any decent shop
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danjb
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a local panelbeater to paint and fit new front and rear bumbers to my ute. Also some panel work to one of the doors.

We both agreed the freshly painted bumpers would look crap against the old body paint, so he resprayed the whole thing.

But the useless tool didn't do enough prep work and sprayed over stone chips and scratches. However he did take the time to do in and around the doors.

Is this 'fixable' by redoing bad areas and blend in, or does the whole thing need ANOTHER respray??The colour is Biscayne blue.

The ute is now in another state from where it was "resprayed".
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MilleniumFalcon
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'day nlbxr6
I took down my new front bar, rear bar and side skirts(bodykit) down to a recommended panelbeater to get painted, well a quote at first. I was then told that the rear bar was actually fibreglass and would need to be back filled, but I think the rest was plastic including the bonnet. They said they would call me an hr later to let me know how much it would set me back, called them yesterday and they have quoted me $1900 just to paint, front bar, rear bar, bonnet (both sides) and 2 side skirts. I am gobsmacked, but it doesn't sound right to me still.

The car is a metallic AU forte Meteorite, H4. My question to you is does the price sound right or a bit over the top? icon_smile.gif
I haven't taken a magnifying glass over the kit, but the rear bar does have minute bumps along the surface.
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danjb wrote:
I got a local panelbeater to paint and fit new front and rear bumbers to my ute. Also some panel work to one of the doors.

We both agreed the freshly painted bumpers would look crap against the old body paint, so he resprayed the whole thing.

But the useless tool didn't do enough prep work and sprayed over stone chips and scratches. However he did take the time to do in and around the doors.

Is this 'fixable' by redoing bad areas and blend in, or does the whole thing need ANOTHER respray??The colour is Biscayne blue.

The ute is now in another state from where it was "resprayed".

if it only one or two panels then you should be able to blend these panels but there are marks on every panel it would make sense to respray
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