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Installing Gear Drive, Cleveland
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XeTurbo
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 11:02 pm    Post subject: Installing Gear Drive, Cleveland Reply with quote

I Just bought myself a geardrive set to replace my timing chain and was wondering what needs to be done to fit them.
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Interceptor
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

doesnt it come with fitting instructions?
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XeTurbo
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i bought it off ebay, and it hasnt arrived yet, so i thought id ask some questions and see if anybody knows any glitches or anything, because i heard somewhere that sometimes they need machining to fit?
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LTDHO
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you know how to install a gear and chain you can fit the gears. Very simple. Do you like to hear gear whine? That's about all they're good for!
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GTFORDMAN
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i can help, there very simple to fit, simply line the indents on the gears so that they are parralel to each other (timing mark) then quite simply put the middle part in the middle, with the small steel rods pointing out. if you orded the right ones they should just fit strait in.

LTDHO wrote:
If you know how to install a gear and chain you can fit the gears. Very simple. Do you like to hear gear whine? That's about all they're good for!


They are noisier than timing chains but ive found they make the engine responed better than a timing chain, and the so called gear whine is not that loude or annoying.
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brett351
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cant see the problem with the noise issue. s**t, the noise coming from under the bonnet should be the least of your noise problems if your building an engine that needs a gear drive.
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Interceptor
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they arent allways nopisy, straight cut gears are a hell of a lot noisier than helical cut gears
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EB XR8
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interceptor wrote:
they arent allways nopisy, straight cut gears are a hell of a lot noisier than helical cut gears


I'm confused. I thought that timing are straight cut (spur gears), not helical. But doesn't that contradict saying "they arent always noisy". icon_confused.gif
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Aaron_EF8
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The straight cut ones are the noisey ones. The helical cut ones are the quieter ones, although I don't think they are made any more, because the only advantage of a gear drive is the whining noise.
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Interceptor
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aaron_EF8 wrote:
The straight cut ones are the noisey ones. The helical cut ones are the quieter ones, although I don't think they are made any more, because the only advantage of a gear drive is the whining noise.

not so

a timing chain stretches over time (hence the need for timing chain tensioners) and the extra length can put the cam timing out by a few degrees, whereas timing gears will allways retain the cam timing tat the engine was built with
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pinkbits8u
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they just go straight on

you cant run the normal mechanical fuel pump on a clevo with the gear drive , so youll need a blocking plate ( easily made ) and electric fuel pump/s , regulator etc

another thing to think about is cam timing , youll get small pins that are different colours that can be used to time your cam to crank - you have to pick the one to use , i used the standard zero degree on mine

theres some things about gear drives in another topic on this site ( windsor gear drive )

i use a gear drive on my clevo and i like it , you can just hear it over the exhaust which is reasonably loud

hope this helps
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pinkbits8u
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

single idler gear drives are better as they dont push the crank and cam apart as much
australian made -diecrest -make a good one for about 400 - 500 bucks
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kenny
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everyone seems to be forgetting the most important issue here
WHAT ABOUT DEGREEING THE CAMSHAFT TO THE CORRECT TIMING!
clevo crankshafts are terrible for being ''true''
and the cam could be out a couple of degrees (4 degrees out on the cam will be 8 degrees on the crank) Its very easy horsepower that you already have in front of you , Dont waste it!
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SQUEAK
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just be careful with your timing cover!!!

Ive had 2 different types of gear drives in my old 351s both duel idler one was a peter jackson and I think the other was a j.p one......

Anyway the first one actually drilled through the timing cover and into the blades of the water pump........ very messy!!!

And the 2nd one started doing the same thing so in the end just went for a good quality double row timing chain.

Last of all Jason Manswetto of Trick an manswetto racing said they wouldnt build me an engine if I was going 2 use a gear drive as under extreme loads...i.e real heavy valve springs and big lift cams, He has had a few in the past that break the teeth off and as such f**k the engine.

Anyway just my experiances and what ive been told.
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kenny
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iv'e used rollmaster premium (red package) dialed in the cam & gone to change the cam to a bigger unit & out of curiousity checked the timing after 20'000km and found the timing hadn't changed, even with tripple valve springs with huge seat pressures
but some people like the sound of gears, both have their advantages so I guess its each to their own
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I threw the Mildon gear drive out of my big block when I found metal shavings coming off the gears when I went to retard my cam a little. They also induce valetrain harmonics which lead to early valvetrain failure. I am an avid fan of Rollmaster timing sets now...
Shane
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kenny
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrLandau wrote:
I threw the Mildon gear drive out of my big block when I found metal shavings coming off the gears when I went to retard my cam a little. They also induce valetrain harmonics which lead to early valvetrain failure. I am an avid fan of Rollmaster timing sets now...
Shane

the last geardrive I was "involved" with actually retarded the cam itself 2 deg at the cam (4 crank deg) after only 10'000 km's or even less, But it was a popular $270 cheapy from sydney ,since then I wont have anything to do with them.
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pinkbits8u
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im doing a cam change in the next week or so , so ill checj\k the gear drive wear then , and see if its floating into the timing cover
ill let you all know , i think its just a jp
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool just check the pins that the idler gears run on, Where they line up with on the timing cover cause thats where mine kept drilling.

Me personally I would just get a double row timing chain like a rollmaster series.

If you want the noise either buy a blower or a set of gilmers.

Anyway let us know how you go.
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GTFORDMAN
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pinkbits8u wrote:
they just go straight on

you cant run the normal mechanical fuel pump on a clevo with the gear drive , so youll need a blocking plate ( easily made ) and electric fuel pump/s , regulator etc


Yes you can, you can run a mech fuel pump with a gear drive, mine runs just fine (for now at least).

Ps, Didnt end up buying the Holly elec Fuel pump, decided not to, but i got lots of valuble info on it - thanx.
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