 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bug
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 467
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Tweed Heads NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (1)
|
 Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:20 am Post subject: |
 |
|
| Anyone got a part number on the spigot baring? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ToranaGuy
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 451
Joined: 08 Dec 2004
Location: Werribee VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (11)
|
| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Bug wrote: | | Anyone got a part number on the spigot baring? |
That's something i didn't bother to write down. If you ring up a joint like Repco or Bursons they can get the bearing for you, or drop in there to get a " quote ", then you get the number printed up & can compare the price to places like CBC bearings.
Cheers
ToranaGuy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
arm79
Cruise Moderator
Age:29
Posts: 3632
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Westside VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
|
| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 4:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Bug wrote: | | Anyone got a part number on the spigot baring? |
Just walk into a Bursons or Repco and ask for the bearing. Its a normally stocked item and is like $6 to $8.
The geuinine item from CBC is about $15, and the same bearing from Ford is $30. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bug
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 467
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Tweed Heads NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (1)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
Question for Voxace, in your guide you use a 6.8k resistor but recommend the usage of a 7k one if you can find one.
Well theyre pretty much impossible to find, but wouldnt a 6.8k and a 200ohm in series be the same thing? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
snap0964
Technical Contributor
Age:44
Posts: 3019
Joined: 13 Jan 2005
Location: South Coast NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (10)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
6.8k should work fine. The auto neutral range is from 6.5k-7.6k. 7k is generally used as a roundabout figure.
(Sorry to cut in Dave) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
voxace
Technical Contributor
Age:23
Posts: 3092
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Ivanhoe NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (27)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
| snap0964 wrote: | 6.8k should work fine. The auto neutral range is from 6.5k-7.6k. 7k is generally used as a roundabout figure.
(Sorry to cut in Dave) |
^^^ What he said, he knows more than me! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
snap0964
Technical Contributor
Age:44
Posts: 3019
Joined: 13 Jan 2005
Location: South Coast NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (10)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
| voxace wrote: | | What he said, he knows more than me! |
Only because I've had 20+yrs more mistakes to learn from.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
4nik8
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:31
Posts: 118
Joined: 14 Jun 2006
Location: auckland New Zealand
View User Gallery (12)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
my car is already manual but refuses to "see" the resistors to run el computer,,  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ToranaGuy
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 451
Joined: 08 Dec 2004
Location: Werribee VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (11)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 7:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| 4nik8 wrote: | | my car is already manual but refuses to "see" the resistors to run el computer,, |
Sorry but that post of yours really doesn't make much sense. Do you mean that you have done the conversion, done the wiring mod, but the ECU your using won't run the car?
Cheers
ToranaGuy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
4nik8
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:31
Posts: 118
Joined: 14 Jun 2006
Location: auckland New Zealand
View User Gallery (12)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 7:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| it starts and runs without the resistors using the el computer,,but i cant get round the "netural start switch" code...and wont do KOEO test.. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
arm79
Cruise Moderator
Age:29
Posts: 3632
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Westside VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well.. If its a factory manual, chances are the netural switch is still plugged in.
And if you are using an auto ECU, you are effectively shorting out those terminals, and the ECU wont do the test correctly. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bug
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 467
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Tweed Heads NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (1)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Back on to spigot bearings for a sec, This is what ford gave me..
Looks a little diff to the one pictured in Vox's guide, so I thaught id post it to make sure im on the right track, its also notched on one side, so I assume it has to be mounted a particular direction.
And no I didnt buy two of them but through the magic of Photoshop the bearing can sit next to itself  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
arm79
Cruise Moderator
Age:29
Posts: 3632
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Westside VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.
The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ToranaGuy
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 451
Joined: 08 Dec 2004
Location: Werribee VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (11)
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| arm79 wrote: | That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.
The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank. |
I take it the puller is so you don't have to remove the flywheel & press the bearing out?
I didn't pay too much attention to my flywheel,spigot, fork, clutch & plate, as the clutch fork had a genuine ford part sticker on it, it was only 12mths old, the clutch & pressure plate had also done very little work before i acquired them. Almost no wear in them at all, or on the flywheel. I just fit it all into my EB.
Cheers
ToranaGuy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
arm79
Cruise Moderator
Age:29
Posts: 3632
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Westside VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
|
| Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
| ToranaGuy wrote: | | arm79 wrote: | That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.
The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank. |
I take it the puller is so you don't have to remove the flywheel & press the bearing out? |
There is no other way to remove the bearing. And the bearing is pressed into the crank, not the flywheel. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ToranaGuy
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 451
Joined: 08 Dec 2004
Location: Werribee VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (11)
|
| Posted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| arm79 wrote: | | ToranaGuy wrote: | | arm79 wrote: | That is the right bearing. Its the genuine Ford one.
The notches are there for a puller to remove the bearing should you need to do so. And those notches go into the crank. |
I take it the puller is so you don't have to remove the flywheel & press the bearing out? |
There is no other way to remove the bearing. And the bearing is pressed into the crank, not the flywheel. |
Well s**t hey! I really paid attention to that when i was re-assembling my engine & T5! I'm too used to playing with cars that the spigot is inserted into the flywheel. I wonder if that tool can be bought from somewhere like bursons or you have to buy it from ford?
Cheers
ToranaGuy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sommers NL
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:30
Posts: 166
Joined: 06 Apr 2007
Location: Nundah QLD QLD, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
|
| Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 3:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thats a really good guide, I almost thinK i could do it to the NL  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
rushed
Fordmods Junkie
Posts: 2763
Joined: 22 Sep 2005
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (10)
|
| Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 3:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
um i have just noticed a small problem...
i followed the guide on electronics section exactly, has been running fine for ages now, but yesterday i tried starting it while in gear and it didnt jump, the inhibitor switch is still active.
eg; i can start with gear in "n" and cltch in or out, put it in gear and try and start it with either clutch in or out and it does nothing.
have i done somthing wrong? as i thought it was supposed to disable the inhibitor switch.
cheers |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
voxace
Technical Contributor
Age:23
Posts: 3092
Joined: 05 Nov 2004
Location: Ivanhoe NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (27)
|
| Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 4:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Nah that's how I like it.
If you want to start it in gear, you just have to join the two wires that go to the neutral switch, or run a a set of wires in parallel to a clutch switch as well. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ToranaGuy
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 451
Joined: 08 Dec 2004
Location: Werribee VIC, Australia
View User Gallery (11)
|
| Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 7:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| voxace wrote: | Nah that's how I like it.
If you want to start it in gear, you just have to join the two wires that go to the neutral switch, or run a a set of wires in parallel to a clutch switch as well. |
With my car, because i used the manual ecu & gearbox loom, i can start mine in gear, and let me tell you i've done that a few times since converting.  I'd be happier if it didn't, to be honest it's a good safety thing, you can't accidently start your car and have it jump into something or someone.
Cheers
ToranaGuy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| (c)2002-2008 Matti Jones and Brad Evans |
[47 queries :: 0.06053 seconds ]
|
|
