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Advise on Panel & Paint up and going again
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Chich
Fordmods Stock as a Rock




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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nlbxr6 wrote:
Set two things first what colour and how straight {show car;every now and then car;or daily driver}
Some colours show ripples more than others
Falcons and most new cars now days generally have a lot of ripples from new.


In my case the car is Artic Blue and will be used one or twice a month. In regards to the visibility of the ripples its pretty much dependant on the lighting and the angle at which you look at the panel. Looking at it straight on it looks perfect, however if you look down the doors (from the rear quarter towards the front or vice-versa) in a low light environment you can see the ripples (from the side mouldings to the window trims).

nlbxr6 wrote:

I would suggest finding a good paintless dent repairer for the small dents.Some of the good PDR repairers can push some pretty big dents that only then require a good block and hi-fill.
If the damage is bad enough that you would need to SKIM the doors you would still need to hi-fill
Hi-fill is the name for a 2 pac putty and primer in one


Panel damage is very minimal - i only have two extremely shallow dents that can eaily be fixed by a dent repairer. The rippling and waviness is another matter...


nlbxr6 wrote:

The only reason you get the high spots from the glue inside the doors is from the panel being heated too much while being sanded.
If you dont use sharp sandpaper or you sand in one area to long you heat the panel up when this happens the metal stretches but where it is glued it cant move so when you apply pressure [sanding}the panel will flex inwards thus creating high spots where the glue is.So the more you sand the more you will see the ripples cause you are removing more primer from these raised bits that cant flex

Man thats pretty hard to explain so everyone can understand


Good job, makes perfect sense!


nlbxr6 wrote:

As for the peel find yourself a dam good painter or be prepared to spend a lot of time buffing {you will understand why soon}

PPG pretty good and GLASURIT the best in the world
Find your painter and ask what flavour he prefers
Any of the major paint brands are as good as each other

Ceramic Clear is a very good product if applied correctly
It povides a hard glass like coating which is very tough and durable.
As with any 2 pac finish it is designed to be an off the gun finish{no buffing}.But most times a little buffing is required for small dust particles that have ended up in the final coat.
Therefore if you get too much dust or peel or even a little run the ceramic clear is that hard it is a pain to buff
Very good product if used correctly


Buffing isn't a problem - i already spend hours upon hours polishing, sealing waxing and keeping all our cars swirl free and looking good. I understand that a flat finish is a pain in the a** to maintain but as it won't be a daily i'm prepared to put in a little more effort to keep it looking good.

The two workshops i've visited specialise in European cars (Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Ferrari etc) that have used CeramiClear for a number of years so i'm sure they'll be familiar working with it. In regards to buffing i know a few people that have experience with polishing cars painted with the stuff so it should be ok. Regardless, its good to know what problems people typically encounter when they use the stuff.
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skidder
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey,

I need to paint a fibreglass speaker surround and get a gloss finish...up until now i have only needed matte finish to match my interior, but this job is for my mate and he wants it to be close to his outside colour (white gloss). What would be my best bet?

cheers nick
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skidder wrote:
hey,

I need to paint a fibreglass speaker surround and get a gloss finish...up until now i have only needed matte finish to match my interior, but this job is for my mate and he wants it to be close to his outside colour (white gloss). What would be my best bet?

cheers nick

Hey Nick do it the same way you would a matt finish but you nee to make sure all imperfections are sanded out as they will show up more with a gloss finish
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BuNtEr
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is there anyone in sydney that does air brushing on cars ?
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BuNtEr wrote:
is there anyone in sydney that does air brushing on cars ?

Sorry it took so long but I couldnt tell you best bet is local yellow pages or street machine etc
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RuchEa
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi nlbxr6,
sweet thread, if your still around wanna start it up again?

Im currently prepping an ebgt kit (front and rear bumper and side skirts only) for paint in cobalt blue(c9) the kit is fibreglass.
If i were to have the ready for paint what would you suggest is a good ball park figure for:

the paint?
the painting?
and the labour?

i would do the painting myself but only have s**t gun and a pissy 40ltr compressor, and reckon a good gun would cost a good portion having it done professionally. Nor do i have a baking oven.

thanks for any info you can give
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koperety
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gday nath, nice thread you really do seem to know your stuff.

anyway i was wondering if you chould point me in the direction or perhaps tell me yourself to a from start to finish spraying guide.

i whould belive there wshould be quite a few other users interested in this,with things like what to spray guns to use, pressures, paint types,techniques, ect

i was also told it is common to have the hose spewing water allover the foor while painting, is this true.

only reason i ask is becuse im about to respray my EB GT and whould like to know where to start
cheeres
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dyno_phoenix
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, my car is a white AU, i was planning to respray a different colour, but would it be more effective to throw a pearl over the white? im not too sure ive never seen a white car with a pearl.

Thanks
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

koperety wrote:
gday nath, nice thread you really do seem to know your stuff.

anyway i was wondering if you chould point me in the direction or perhaps tell me yourself to a from start to finish spraying guide.

i whould belive there wshould be quite a few other users interested in this,with things like what to spray guns to use, pressures, paint types,techniques, ect

i was also told it is common to have the hose spewing water allover the foor while painting, is this true.

only reason i ask is becuse im about to respray my EB GT and whould like to know where to start
cheeres

Sorry guys I been pretty usy with a mew job but lets go again
If I had to do a full how to paint your car i think I would insane and you guys would get sick reading but have a look at this site its pretty useful.
The idea of water on the floor is to keep dust down but if you want a good 2 pac job use a booth with ull down draft air flow
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RuchEa wrote:
Hi nlbxr6,
sweet thread, if your still around wanna start it up again?

Im currently prepping an ebgt kit (front and rear bumper and side skirts only) for paint in cobalt blue(c9) the kit is fibreglass.
If i were to have the ready for paint what would you suggest is a good ball park figure for:

the paint?
the painting?
and the labour?

i would do the painting myself but only have s**t gun and a pissy 40ltr compressor, and reckon a good gun would cost a good portion having it done professionally. Nor do i have a baking oven.

thanks for any info you can give

Some shops will quote realy cheap some will quote dear all depends on what you want to pay for a cheap s**t job or a pro nicly done job.Alot of shops wont even quote a paint only job because if the prep aint right the owner usually complains to everyone about the s**t job that was done.
Expect around $1000 for a decent job
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dyno_phoenix wrote:
Hey guys, my car is a white AU, i was planning to respray a different colour, but would it be more effective to throw a pearl over the white? im not too sure ive never seen a white car with a pearl.

Thanks

if only it was that easy I wouldnt be cruising in a standard coulor white car
If you want to throw a pearl over it just throw a couple of coats of white on there before the pearl too.This way you dont need to do all the insdes
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kyleat1
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:59 pm    Post subject: paint type Reply with quote

what type off paint is used for a stanard ef ford is it enamel,acrylic ,2 pak
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:34 pm    Post subject: Re: paint type Reply with quote

kyleat1 wrote:
what type off paint is used for a stanard ef ford is it enamel,acrylic ,2 pak

2 pack
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Teza
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'day mate, was just wondering roughly how many litres of paint would be needed for a full respray on an ED Fairmont sedan? its white at the moment but im looking to go Phantom purple. Any idea?
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wicksy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok the red stripes on the XR's how do i get them to look like new again?
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teza wrote:
G'day mate, was just wondering roughly how many litres of paint would be needed for a full respray on an ED Fairmont sedan? its white at the moment but im looking to go Phantom purple. Any idea?

approx 4 litre base coat
3-4 litres of purple
depending on what clear will determine how much you will need
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wicksy wrote:
ok the red stripes on the XR's how do i get them to look like new again?

give them a polish using a mild cutting compound then coat with a plasticrubber protectant such as auto gleam rubber gel
If this doesnt wrk buy new moulds
After all thy are plastic and plastic will only last so many years
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david5
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where can I get replacement stripes for my XD S Pack ? The ones that go over the wheel arches.

Cheers David
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AU99
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thinking of painting my car soon (not metalic) and have been told to mix clear & colour to the final coats for a better finish. I have in the past just done the colour but do want this to really shine and have depth.

or just do the base coat then do clear over the top.
Whats the best??
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AU99 wrote:
thinking of painting my car soon (not metalic) and have been told to mix clear & colour to the final coats for a better finish. I have in the past just done the colour but do want this to really shine and have depth.

or just do the base coat then do clear over the top.
Whats the best??

The process you refer to was used yaers ago on metallic colours to eliminate mottle.This is where the paint looks to have steaks or is patchey from being applied to thick or uneven in areas.
IMO you are better off using a clear over base as it will give the deep look you are after as well as withstanding any light scratching and the clear also helps reduce pigment breakdown and the paint going all chalky after a few years in the sun.Just be sure to use a good quality High Solid Clear.
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