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efmarek
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:22
Posts: 128
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
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 Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 12:59 am Post subject: |
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Shell Helix ULTRA is damn good! I used it for many years in my EF 6.....and my friend (who is an engineer at ford, and has driven many cars like mine) says that my EF went harder than any other one he has driven (fully stock ofcourse). I put it down to the oil....also because i was reading up on some oil tests that have been done, and shell ultra (5w40) has one of the best SHEAR (when oil loses its strength) rates of any other oil of the same price.
By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :
1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.
2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.
3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!
Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.
Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong.  |
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richard williams
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:39
Posts: 535
Joined: 22 Sep 2005
Location: melbourne VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:39 am Post subject: |
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Ford have an LPG spec oil and It's a rebadged product from a major oil company. (I can't say who... trade secrets) My wife works for the oil packing company and It's very interesting how many products come from the same tanker.
BTW how much do you think a 44 gallon (205ltr)drum of Mobil 1 is worth? |
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Serenity Now!
Fordmods Newbie
Age:37
Posts: 13
Joined: 16 Jun 2007
Location: Thomastown VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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I know this is an old thread now, but i read this test some students did on oil viscosity and friction wear.
Apparently, based on their results, Valvoline Durablend was one of the best, with less friction wear than some of the leading, more expensive brands.
Based on their friction tests, the average wear on the part being tested was around 7-8 millimetres. The durablend left a wear mark of just one millimetre. I think the durablend retails for around $40 for 5 litres. I'll try to find the link and put it on here.
Well, that's my two cents worth. |
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XY GT
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:101
Posts: 564
Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Location: Perth WA, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:08 am Post subject: |
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| Is it still ok to use 15W50 in the XY? Its a 250.... 1971, not rebuilt. |
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XY GT
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:101
Posts: 564
Joined: 22 Oct 2006
Location: Perth WA, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:09 am Post subject: |
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| Ok well today I stuck 15W40 in it... will it be ok or does it need to be 15W50 |
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Grimketel
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:26
Posts: 1109
Joined: 10 Jul 2007
Location: Bacchus Marsh VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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Ive got a bottle of BP Visco 3000 lying around the living room, and after reading all this its definately going in the EB instead of the AU. I think Ill go the Visco 5000 for the AU with its much lower starting weight.
Anyone have any bad thoughts about the BP Visco semi synth/ full synth oils?
Or will this shell helix ultra rock my world? I admit a warry caution to using shell helix products- any oil you can buy for 20 bucks in Kmart or Coles is about as good as using recycled oil to me. How does the ultra differ?
My old man recomended the Visco he uses on his BA mkII XR6T, (the 5000) was he correct in doing so? |
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Package
Fordmods Newbie
Age:26
Posts: 13
Joined: 24 Apr 2006
Location: Perth WA, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks For All The Info, It Was A Great Read!  |
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efmarek
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:22
Posts: 128
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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| XY GT wrote: | | Ok well today I stuck 15W40 in it... will it be ok or does it need to be 15W50 |
It all depends on the type of oil u use. U can have a fully kickass SYNTHETIC 15w40......and a cheap s**t oil thats also rated 15w40.
Does that mean they will both protect the same??......NO WAY!
The cheap s**t oil will 'shear' down to a 20 weight oil (even though it says 40) when its in the bearings (due to the heat and load).
Whereas the more expensive 15w40 will actually stay true to its claim, and remain a 40 weight oil in the bearings. |
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DJBOOBY
Fordmods Parts Gopher
Posts: 91
Joined: 25 Jul 2006
Location: Tumut NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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| xf 1985 4.1 new rebuild engine with ACL rings/pistons crow cam been to castrol oil web site and they recommend castrol magnatec 10w-40 or GTX 3 15w-40 for 3.3/4.1 ulp engs 1986-88 is this right i was thinking more along the lines of GTX 2 25w-50 |
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efmarek
Fordmods Stock as a Rock
Age:22
Posts: 128
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Location: Melbourne VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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| break it in with GTX2 then switch to GTX3. |
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tickford_6
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:25
Posts: 3716
Joined: 11 Nov 2004
Location: townsville QLD, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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| efmarek wrote: | Shell Helix ULTRA is damn good! I used it for many years in my EF 6.....and my friend (who is an engineer at ford, and has driven many cars like mine) says that my EF went harder than any other one he has driven (fully stock ofcourse). I put it down to the oil....also because i was reading up on some oil tests that have been done, and shell ultra (5w40) has one of the best SHEAR (when oil loses its strength) rates of any other oil of the same price.
By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :
1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.
2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.
3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!
Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.
Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong. |
i'd just like to hear what you might think would happen if you were to run in an engine that has a flat tappet cam using that method?.... |
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DJBOOBY
Fordmods Parts Gopher
Posts: 91
Joined: 25 Jul 2006
Location: Tumut NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
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| Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 8:08 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :
1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.
2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.
3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!
Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.
Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong. |
this is not true if you install a cam in engine with lifters you will need to bed the cam to lifters when my engine was fitted i had to start check timeing then rev car at 1800rpm for 10 to 20 mins this way the cam and lifters are match and last a lot longer and cam wear is less of a chance of happening as well this get all air out of oil system
after this is done you then take car and bed rings in then for say 5000km do not sit on the one speed for to long (don,t drive Melb to Sydney at 110knm all the way step speed 30mins on 90 then 110 then back to 80 you just need to change your speed
it was in the instration when i got my engine rebuild |
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jamesbakon
Fordmods Parts Gopher
Age:45
Posts: 79
Joined: 28 May 2007
Location: melbourne/ brunswick VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:13 am Post subject: |
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| i agree |
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twr7cx
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:22
Posts: 10397
Joined: 15 Nov 2004
Location: Hobart TAS, Australia
View User Gallery (0)
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:39 am Post subject: |
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| Car manufacturers generally run the engines in with monograde engine running in oil prior to delivery of the vehicle to the new owner. it contains no adatives or protectants or anything and allows the parts to mesh together. |
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DJBOOBY
Fordmods Parts Gopher
Posts: 91
Joined: 25 Jul 2006
Location: Tumut NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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| repco sell it running in oil valvoline make it. it straight 30 grade |
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HornDog
Fordmods - Smokin em up
Posts: 248
Joined: 13 Oct 2007
Location: Illawarra NSW, Australia
View User Gallery (9)
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| Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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| DJBOOBY wrote: |
after this is done you then take car and bed rings in then for say 5000km do not sit on the one speed for to long (don,t drive Melb to Sydney at 110knm all the way step speed 30mins on 90 then 110 then back to 80 you just need to change your speed
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i agree coz when i had my engine rebuild, thats exactly what my mechanic told me to do. |
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dabloodemess
Fordmods Newbie
Posts: 15
Joined: 21 Nov 2007
Location: Kilkivan QLD, Australia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Anyone tried castrol edge sport (5W-30W) in an EF? |
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tickford_6
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways
Age:25
Posts: 3716
Joined: 11 Nov 2004
Location: townsville QLD, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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| dabloodemess wrote: | | Anyone tried castrol edge sport (5W-30W) in an EF? |
no but i have used motul 300V 5w30 in an EF. befor the rebuild it burnt alot of it. after the rebuild it burns none and has great oil pressure |
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mr_rx7_
Fordmods Tyre Shredder
Age:22
Posts: 341
Joined: 10 Jan 2005
Location: Broadmeadows (Melb. North) VIC, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Wat bout for a 300,000km EF i6 running an R4 cam.. which oil u recommend? i get lifter noise every 3rd or 4th startup, sometimes for 10seconds or so, sometimes for a minute... |
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StrawbZ
Fordmods - Smokin em up
Age:19
Posts: 258
Joined: 18 Mar 2008
Location: Penrith , Sydney NSW, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S |
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