How To Tune Your LPG system at home - Ford Modifications Website

How To Tune Your LPG system at home
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saber_32au
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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:59 am Post subject:

hey there, i own a XF (which is of course on LPG) and was wondering if the same procedure MacGyver outlined in the first post can be used to tune a older system? Here is a pic of the converter: Thanks for your help.

Walker
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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:25 pm Post subject:

Very similar mate, but you also need to get the power valve set right as i explained in a previous post. The Landi isn't a bad setup on a stock 4.1, but you wouldn't fit it to anything bigger.

saber_32au
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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:59 pm Post subject:

thanks for the reply, I was just wondering how do I clean out the converter? Do I just take off the 4 screws on the front plate (labeled "landi" on the above pic) and clean out all of the crap in there? Do I have to drain the cooling system first? Do I need a new gasket for the front plate? Thanks

saber_32au
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:35 pm Post subject:

anybody???

relaxed_diplomacy
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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:30 pm Post subject:

I recently rebuilt my OMVL converter with a kit. I have tried the suggested method for tuning it and have some questions. I disconnected the ISC, but don't think my XG has throttle stops in which to place a feeler guage? I don't understand the feeler guage bit. I also disconnected power to the LPG stepper valve. I screwed the 10mm bolt out 6 turns and the 8mm bolt all the way in. The car ran on this but only just. I screwed the 10mm bolt further out but it slowly got worse, so i screwed it in and found the sweet spot at around 4 turns out. I kept screwing it in till the motor was only just running. I then screwed out the 8mm bolt until it ran nice and idled at the same speed to what it does on petrol. But it falls flat at around 3500rpm heavy throttle. My guess is it is leaning out, but i don't know. What should i do? I am cautious to experiment because i don't want to create an explosion. My previous motor's timing chain skipped after my first (admittedly bodgy) attempt at tuning the LPG and i don't know at this stage whether the LPG played a role. So i'm damn cautious!

relaxed_diplomacy
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Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:07 am Post subject:

When i rev the motor up at stand still and it gets to around 3500-4000rpm the revs actually drop off and the motor runs rough. I disconnected the stepper valve and there was no difference. This suggests to me the problem is the stepper valve isn't operating. If it is not operating perhaps that is because 1. it has a problem 2. the HEGA has a problem 3. the wiring between the HEGA and stepper valve has a problem 4. the LPG ecu has a problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Smokey...Retired!
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:15 pm Post subject:

I just did a gas conversion and had the same problem. Although the car i took the system out of had no stepper, just a screw, but the wiring was there. SO I thought why not & i have added the stepper motor & just took the car for a run & it has no guts after nearly 3000rpm. Going to take it out now & just put the screw in. SEe how it goes

Smokey...Retired!
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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:30 pm Post subject:

All good without the stepper motor! So im guessing its a faulty stepper motor or aeg lpg ecu...

smegoalll
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:35 am Post subject:

hi i brought a au II with gas fitted some time later in life. and have been useing your advice on this post to tune it. when i got it, it had just been tned but i couldent help my self and had to stuff around with it. i was gettting 400 -450 from a tank now i get 490. how ever i have just installed a air fuel meter and vacume gauge to see if i could get even more from a tank. this is what confuses me the idel/bypass screw puts a set amont of gas in , the sesertivety increse the amount of gas going in when vacume increses (plesas correct me if im wrong) my car makes 25 in/mg at idel, 23 at 60 (crusing) 15 at 80 crusing, and 10 - 5 accelerating from 0 -100. so it runs rich as at idel, rich at crusing and lean as when accelerating this makes no sense wouldent you want the diframe wide open(lots of fuel through the sensitivity ) when accelerating, and closed (no fuel throught sensitivity only from the bypass) when ideling or crusing. with my gauges im sure i will be able to get it better but it seems that the whole system is designed backwards from any thing ive ever seen before im a electritan but have done a bit of instramentation and compared to ny thing ive ever calibrated its got me stuffed have i missed something any help would be great cheers