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head gasket doco *started*
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braidy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a good read. Looking foward to seeing more.
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teveo
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

phongus wrote:
Shum's EL wrote:
teveo wrote:
Dude, so that means i can do the cam, and tappets with out taking the head off!!!! is that right??


yeah thats right


I concur.

and teveo...flat top piston are better...not sure if it was for combustion purposes or compression or something else...I forget. So used pistons with carbon on them tend to have less groves and be "flatter" then when they are clean. Well that's what I read somewhere and was told by my mechanic.

Too bad cylinder 6 on my block had been clean like that since I took the head off...just wiped the oil off it, pot 1 seems to be slightly cleaned and I'm leaving the rest the way they are.

phong =P~


Ok.. i been trying to get intouch with my wise ol man... phone off.... maybe tomorrow ill have a reason why.... STANDBYE...
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phongus
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay everyone. An update on what's going on here...and hopefully I can get the engine back together by the end of this year, that's if I can get off my a** and finish it off.

Anyways I got the head back a while back but didn't take any pictures of it or anything, been busy with work and getting lazier by the minute.

Since I picked up my camshaft on Friday, I thought I'd take a couple of pictures of the camshaft and resurfaced and tested head.





The head was found to be in really good condition. Only a little bit was taken off the head to get it straight and valve seals and the lot are all in good condition with without any leaks, so thumbs up so far for the head...though contemplating on getting it port/polished, though not sure if it is worth it at the moment.

I decided to go with a regrind camshaft rather then billet, due to the price differences. I got a WadeCam 1673 grind and hopefully it will give me the oomph I am after.

I also got new TopGun leads and some gaskets so far. Still got to get VRS kit, AU headgasket, new head bolts and water pump. Contemplating on getting a new alternator or reusing the one in my car as well as trying to remove the steel water pump pulley off the old pump and putting it on the new one, don't want a nice chromed pulley go to waste icon_biggrin.gif.

Hopefully I can start on it once Christmas holidays start.

phong =P~
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phongus
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ummm I got myself some parts and tools to get ready to get working on this engine again. Went to Repco to buy a head gasket kit. I thought it was a VRS kit that they sold, but he sold me an ACL Monotorque one...Part number DR522MT, is that the right one? I won't be using the gasket in the kit (which I am guessing is composite, from what I've read).

Coming from Ford, will be an AU head gasket, new head bolts and a genuine water pump minus the pulley. Got a steel pulley from the old pump which I will take to work and get the maintenance crew to get it off and put it on the new one icon_biggrin.gif.

Another thing, when I picked up the head a while back, I noticed that the valve springs are grey now and not red. I asked the mechanic and he said the springs were painted red and it came off when they cleaned it...is that true? I always forgot to ask about it icon_eek.gif

Also got myself a torque wrench from TotalTools which was on special...lifetime warranty so I didn't complain.

Final question. I will be needing some shims for something so that I can use the regrind cam. I am clueless as to what these shims are, what they look like and how big they are...all I know is that it is 1.9mm and I can get them from Ford supposedly. Can someone please show me a picture as to what the shims look like and where the they go? I have no idea where to start with the shims.

Thanks everyone

phong =P~
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phongus
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

*bump*...anyone help?

phong =P~
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shnoza
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey phongus... im not sure but i think they are like a big washer.
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Damo
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are shims, they sit in the rocker arms on top of the lifters, there's one in each arm (12 all up). With Wade cams I'm pretty sure you just add 1 extra shim to each arm, they should be able to supply the correct amount of shims anyway. s**t phone pic..



The valve springs are painted red from factory for tickford heads, doesn't surprise me that the paint came of when the head was cleaned.
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phongus
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damo wrote:
These are shims, they sit in the rocker arms on top of the lifters, there's one in each arm (12 all up). With Wade cams I'm pretty sure you just add 1 extra shim to each arm, they should be able to supply the correct amount of shims anyway. s**t phone pic..



The valve springs are painted red from factory for tickford heads, doesn't surprise me that the paint came of when the head was cleaned.


thank you and thank you shnoza for the help there.

I might have thought they were them but wasn't too sure since they are pretty darn expensive for the size icon_eek.gif

So I'll just ask Ford for these shims? and I guess its about 40 bucks for a set of 12 or is it more icon_confused.gif?

phong =P~
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twason
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are going to need the correct thickness to suit the cam, the cam supplier might know or you will have to measure when its back together.
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phongus
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

twason wrote:
You are going to need the correct thickness to suit the cam, the cam supplier might know or you will have to measure when its back together.


WadeCams said just another 1.9mm shim will do the trick, and so have many others. So I'll stick with that for now. I think the 2.4mm is a bit too thick. If someone can correct me on that, that would be much appreciated icon_biggrin.gif.

phong =P~
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xfpaul
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good write up , just picked up on the thread a bit of info for ya that might help , the reason number 6 piston is clean no carbon is that it is oil washed , rings on that cylinder are not controlling the oil which is able to make its way up the bore, carbon cant form on an oily piston. the carbon on the piston is no totally a bad thing , to explain excess carbon can cause detonation because it gets hot starts glowing and bingo you have a diesel , a small film of carbon is good as its melting temp is higher than the alloy that the piston itself is made of , it protects right down over the ring to the edge of the bore, again too much aint good because it can jam the ring which rotates around the piston. carbon is hard and can cause wear in the wrong places eg. bearings lifters etc if ya going to fire the engine soon eg. incar head replace dont be frightened by water and lots of it flush everthing out the sump , let drip dry fill with new oil and drive, oil temp get up to 160-180 at highway speeds water boils at 100 pcv sucks of the steam and cleans everything, fue drops of water do less damage than s**t in the oil, hope it helps
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phongus
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

xfpaul wrote:
good write up , just picked up on the thread a bit of info for ya that might help , the reason number 6 piston is clean no carbon is that it is oil washed , rings on that cylinder are not controlling the oil which is able to make its way up the bore, carbon cant form on an oily piston. the carbon on the piston is no totally a bad thing , to explain excess carbon can cause detonation because it gets hot starts glowing and bingo you have a diesel , a small film of carbon is good as its melting temp is higher than the alloy that the piston itself is made of , it protects right down over the ring to the edge of the bore, again too much aint good because it can jam the ring which rotates around the piston. carbon is hard and can cause wear in the wrong places eg. bearings lifters etc if ya going to fire the engine soon eg. incar head replace dont be frightened by water and lots of it flush everthing out the sump , let drip dry fill with new oil and drive, oil temp get up to 160-180 at highway speeds water boils at 100 pcv sucks of the steam and cleans everything, fue drops of water do less damage than s**t in the oil, hope it helps


Ohh cool thanks for the info icon_biggrin.gif. Tough with cylinder 6, is that a bad thing? should I be replacing the rings? or can I get away with it?

phong =P~
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xfpaul
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

correct answer is yes , but the cost goes up if ya do the the pistons should be done , that automatically means new conrod brgs , and then where do you stop if ya doing bigends might as well do the mains , crank out means new front and rear seals (yeah dont forget welsh plugs while ya got the engine out) through a new oil pump and timing chain at this and you just about have a new engine
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="phongus"]
Damo wrote:
So I'll just ask Ford for these shims? and I guess its about 40 bucks for a set of 12 or is it more icon_confused.gif?

phong =P~


$60 from Ford for 12 of them. Wade charge nearly double that & will tell you themselves to get from Ford
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phongus
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xfpaul wrote:
correct answer is yes , but the cost goes up if ya do the the pistons should be done , that automatically means new conrod brgs , and then where do you stop if ya doing bigends might as well do the mains , crank out means new front and rear seals (yeah dont forget welsh plugs while ya got the engine out) through a new oil pump and timing chain at this and you just about have a new engine


that's what I thought...it just won't end. If it is safe for me to keep it the way it is, then I'll keep it that way and won't change it.

thanks for the info.

phong =P~
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also get the plastic clip retainers which hold the lifter in the rocker arm, or you will have to stuff around with tape
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phongus
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FordFairmont wrote:
also get the plastic clip retainers which hold the lifter in the rocker arm, or you will have to stuff around with tape


Could I get them from Ford as well? Sorry not sure where abouts to buy the little bits.

phong =P~
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xfpaul
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok cheap fix , ajax in boe 6 after you have head on , when cranking it will deglase the bore will help oil control, if you can without rotateing the crank give it a cross hatch rubb with 800-1200 wet and dry lightly this will allso help very lightly on the thrust sides , 90 degress to the crank
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phongus
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a bit of an update and a few questions.

Went to Ford to get some shims, going to cost me $39.60 for a set of 12 shims. Usually it costs $4.20 each (excluding GST) but got it for $3.00 each (excluding GST). So it's cheaper then I first thought.

I also got quoted $1091.35 for brand new rocker assembly...that's with new rocker arms, new shafts and support shafts...that's ridiculous, I thought it was much cheaper then that icon_confused.gif. I think I'll just replace the broken ones.

I have ordered in the shims, though do the shims come with retainers? I asked the guy at Spare Parts and he said that he couldn't find anything to do with retainers icon_confused.gif so we both hope that it comes with the set of shims. If it doesn't, where do I get them from?

cheers

phong =P~
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shnoza
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a second hand rocker assembly and get the good rockers and replace the broken ones.
Think i bought the rockers for $80. All the rockers worked good so i swaped it for the ones in my car.
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